Was wondering what brake fluid folks used when they bled the brakes. I know the spec calls for DOT 4, but in looking at the spec detail, M-B is stating that the fluid must meet MB 331.0, conforming to FMVSS 116 and/or ISO 4925.

Most of the generic auto houses carry DOT 4, but don't carry a version that meets this spec.

Curious,

 

I use ATE TYP200 DOT 4 every 2 years for brakes & clutch slave. Made in Germany of course.

Note: "TYP" is not a typo.

 

ATE Racing blue.

 

Ideally use a fluid of a different color then you know when you have changed it all.

 

Ordered a 1 liter can of Pentosin Super DOT 4 brake fluid. Meets the MB spec (see attached spec sheet). Plus on it being a different color.

Probably will tackle the brake fluid flush next weekend when all the parts (speed bleeder crews & SS brake line) arrive.

Later,

 

When you get her all done, please report back to let us know how it went. I'm particularly interested in the speed bleeders, as I'm considering getting a set.
This past-thread questions the bleeder sizing....
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...kes-fixed.html

Thanks!

 

I have speed bleeders on all my cars. They work well, and definitely is a better experience than trying to work with the wife in the driver seat push now, hold it, take foot off routine!!!

Use their bleed bag at the wheel ( I drain the bag after use into my slop tank and reuse it several times) and there is no mess at all. Open the bleeder at the wheel and push three times; Then refill the brake reservoir. DON'T let the reservoir go dry and start to suck air. EASY and Quick.

 

My experience is also the same. I prefer the manual brake bleed technique over the power bleed technique. Just more comfortable with it.

I also suck quite a bit of brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir & refill the reservoir with new fluid before I start bleeding brakes. I use a simple turkey baster to remove the old brake fluid. Works slick! No sense draining all that old brake fluid in the reservoir by using the first bleeder screw. Shortens the time required to completely bleed the brakes.

 

The best results I've gotten are with the 2 man method .... or wife and husband. I also recommend limiting the stroke to 3/4 travel at the pedal while bleeding. You can bleed the system except the ABS module that way. If your concerned about the fluid in the ABS module you can replace the brake fluid, find a slippery surface to repeatedly slam on the brakes to active the ABS and re bleed later. I've used ATE blue and amber, Pentosin DOT4, Motul RBF 600 as well as 660, and Stopteck RBF 660. I like the feel of the Stoptech fluid best. I'll be trying Endless RF 650 in the near future. For day to day driving you don't need anything fancy like I use. Pentosin DOT 4 is used in many European cars and is easy to find.

Les

 

Just a question for this uninformed brain? Doesn't the ABS system 'cycle' on occasion? That fluid in the ABS tank should circulate enough given the cyclic 'testing cycle' of the system. Does anyone know if there is a 'schedule' of a cycling of the ABS system? If there was a way to 'trigger' the cycling, you wouldn't have to force (slam brakes on soft roads) the cycling. No, I do not mean the mechanic tool to cycle it, I mean it's normal operation 'testing' sequence. BTW, I only ask GOOD questions.

 

I don't know. However, once I had my brake system and ABS module "professionally" bled and they couldn't get a firm pedal. I didn't think much of it until I activated the ABS at the racetrack. The next corner I tried to brake and pedal went to the floor. I drove 100 miles with almost no brakes (carefully) before arriving home. I don't think the module cycled. To get the air out of the ABS module I had to activate it repeatedly (concrete floor) and bleed the system afterwards. It took several sessions to finally get all the air out and a firm pedal.

Les

 

When I changed the brake fluid I wondered what special steps had to be taken with regard to the ABS and the Service Manual said none. I think that no oil sits trapped inside the unit, all the fluid is on the one side of the unit, the same side as the fluid in the lines. The pistons control the volume of system, if you get what I am saying. I can see you getting air in the unit, that is why the reservoir has to be kept topped up. The individual brake lines go to the ABS unit and are treated individually in it. There is no reservoir in that unit, just ins and outs and the pistons.

 

Found the attached explanation on bleeding an anti-lock brake system on StopTech website. Pretty much matches the feedback in this thread.

 

So the DRB-III tool is only required when air is thought to have possibly entered the ABS unit. I guess my statement above is in error by omission.

 

10-4 I do the same with the turkey baster. As to wether our cars have ABS Bosch ABS5.7, Bosch ABS5.3, Delphi's DBC7 - system guess I will do a little brake exercise next time I'm alone on a stretch of open road and exercise the ABS system. Call it a job completed, and hope nothing else breaks. Our cars are 10 years old and s*** just happens.

 

I have no need to do this.

Other drivers seem to make testing my ABS/brakes part of their routine!

 

The Crossfire uses an ABS system, including brakes made by Continental Teves.
As do other Chrysler autos. It has its own Mercedes part number which starts with the numbers 193 which are specific to parts made for the Crossfire.

 

I liked this!

 

Other drivers = students on tractors at Auburn ..

 

Tractors, my a$$. There are 2 (TWO) GTR's in town, driven, poorly, by kids I wouldn't trust with a Radio Flyer.