This morning I decided to clean my wheels before next Saturday's trip to CAA8.
I have always jacked up the rear by the pumpkin so I could rotate each rear wheel and clean the inside.
HOWEVER, since installing the KYB shocks, seems they have more travel then the OEM ones did, this causes the tire/wheel to rotate forward and jam up against the body.
The same is true if you only jack up one side, like in fixing a flat.
( see where I'm going here ? )
Soooooo the only fix I found was to use a second scissor jack on the lower arm plastic cover up next to the wheel to raise the wheel enough to have it clear the body.

This is NOT an issue with the front wheels.

In summary, if you install KYB rear shocks, you better carry that extra scissor jack if you want to get a rear wheel off !

I also see this as a potential issue if you go over a speed bump or railroad tracks at speed, or even in hard cornering !
If one or both rear wheels are unloaded, they are gonna come in contact with the body.
The worst part of my situation is that I threw both of my OEM rear shocks away.
Guess I'll have to start looking for a rear replacement set that does not cause this problem

EDIT: On the Rockauto site, the KYB's show an extended length of 19.33 inches, the Monroe's show an extended length of 18.25 inches !!!!!!!

 

I have the same problem when jacking up my car using the factory jack pocket even with stock shocks. The 295/35/19 tires will move forward towards the door while pressing against the body's fenderwell lip area. Hey,I remember Will Robinson. And his robot slinging his arms around shouting> Warning... Warning... Squirrel Crusher

 

My 275s with stock suspension does the same thing but I don't need a second jack to remove the wheels. They just touch but do not put any real pressure on the body. I asked about this once before and everyone that responded said their oversized tires did not cause the same issue. I am not concerned about it anymore.

James

PS Actually it was "DANGER, DANGER, Will Rogers"

 

Thanks James for the info, as well as the correction on the phrase.
I CAN remove the wheel with much difficulty, but find it impossible to re-install it without the
suspension being jacked up.
It's just too much pressure to get the wheel to pop onto the hubcentric ring,
not to mention turning it afterwards to get the stud holes to line up.

 

Just a friendly suggestion, with a 295 width, a 30 profile tire will resolve the clearance issue

 

Given George's post, due diligence is warrented, would you agree?

.

 

Hmmmm...I can't see this from here......

 

Where is 'here' ?
and what can't you see ?

 

I know (we were both there!) that R&R of the rear tires is a pain, but I can't see it being a problem in any other circumstance. It's only a problem under full extension of the rear suspension. If you're driving and that happens, rubbing the front wheel arch would be my last concern!

 

So you don't think that in hard cornering ( think Dragon ) that the inside rear shock never reaches full extension ?

BTW, seems Crystal is coming to CAA8 dragging that old pile of junk you used to have with her

 

She's going to try.. betting pool has it 50 to 1 if she makes the state line without breaking down..

 

Naw, those odds are a bit high.
I'd put that horse in at 5 to 1 - it's really a pretty decent runner even though it is all gussied up.

 

The day you posted this I had watched, "Lost in space", at 3 am. Doing the diff. fluid yesterday, I saw no problem. I'm running stock wheel size an I have 5/8" before contact on either side.

Cheer up Max, they're jealous, your horse had a new hat....

 

Yep, about 5/8 " is what I USED to have too before the KYB's.
Makes sense that since they have over an inch more travel that the Monroe's that the wheel/tire would travel forward more, I just wasn't expecting it.

 

What size rears are you running? I have the KYBs also with stock wheel size.

 

The rear suspension is dropping all that way because the shocks, but what is pulling it forward? Probably the sway bar. If you had only one jack, you could remove the sway bar bolt to prevent the tire swinging forward. Then the tires wouldn't swing forward, BUT getting the swaybar bolts back in place might be an experience.

 

Stock wheels with OEM size tires.

 

I don't think it is the sway bar, it is just the way the geometry of the rear suspension works.
The lower you go, the farther forward you go, the sway bar could not force the wheel forward if the geometry did not allow it.
As the front locator link moves down, it describes an arc with the lower point farther forward than the normal resting high point.
(I'm sure there is an arc tangent formula for it, but I ain't going there

 

Thats odd...I don't have an answer..

 

Ain't it the toe links in the front pulling/swinging it forward?

And, yes, I didn't see so much forward travel with the OEM shocks.

MonroeMatics, anyone? LOL!

P.S. My 20's were/are only .15" larger radius. I kept nearly the OEM spec on rolling distance.