I need to get an EFFICIENT & FAST brake bleeder that's compatible with the Crossfire. This unit specifically mentions the Crossfire by name. Karma? Does anyone have a unit they use on their XF that they'd recommend?

 

OK. Either it'll be this procedure (start at 1:30) using the product in the post above OR I'll order Speed-Bleeders. I'm thinking pressure-bleeding is the way to go as STAINLESS STEEL Speed Bleeders are $15 a pop! That's $60 for the whole car, which is frankly insane!!! That's more than this $54.13 pressure-bleeder WHICH I CAN USE ON ANY CAR I OWN. But for anyone wanting Speed Bleeders...
For any Crossfire you'll need two rears: Brake Bleeder / Brake Bleeding / Speed Bleeder Products / USA
For Limited & Base two fronts: Brake Bleeder / Brake Bleeding / Speed Bleeder Products / USA
For those with the C32 AMG front conversion you'll need two of these: Brake Bleeder / Brake Bleeding / Speed Bleeder Products / USA
For those with an SRT-6 I recommend simply removing your front brakes, cuz they ain't got no speed-bleeders for those. Or you can just get a pressure-bleeder.

Does anyone with a habit of exsanguinating the Crossfire have a valuable and unique insight to add? Something gained through years of Crossfire experience & won through the hard choice of ignoring their wive's birthdays, children's graduations, and even ignoring their mistress all to lavish more attention on their Crossfire(s)?

 

I have speed bleeders on my SRT6, no problem.
In Canada that pressure bleeder is C$126 = about US $83 at Amazon.ca, free shipping. Wow! I thinkI will get two. LOL

 

I don't doubt that something is available but they're not gonna help you find it. If you search XF on their site Speed Bleeder Online Parts Catalog they only list rears for the SRT-6 and on the FRONT(s) it says "excluding SRT-6".

 

I use a Mightyvac with good results. It can be used for other purposes as well.


James

 

I ordered my rears from a motorcycle dealer, bluecoupe gave me the fronts.
Better prices came from bike shops not auto parts suppliers.

From a post by dedwards0323


dedwards0323

Senior Member

Thread Starter


Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Upstate SC
Age: 68
Posts: 6,193


Re: Bleeding Brakes - Crossfire NA

(Edit SB7100S is what I have on the front courtesy of bluecoupe.)

I put together a small file that lists the Speed Bleeder Screws (SpeedBleeder.com) for the Crossfire models. I know the listing for the NA Crossfire is correct because I just installed those. And the screws listed for the SRT-6 were provided to me today via eMail from Speed Bleeder Products, Inc. (Note: I mistakenly switched the front disc application on the NA & SRT-6 in my original post. This graphic is now correct.)

Later,

 

Thanks, but now I'm confused because those are two different numbers.
SB7100 is this one: Brake Bleeder / Brake Bleeding / Speed Bleeder Products / USA
SB7100S is this one: http://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcart...eder_p_55.html

Which one are you saying it is? I think you're saying it is SB7100S, the later one. Correct?

 

Right. I used to have one just like it except without the "bicycle pump" on the side. Instead it had a pump handle on top of it. It worked for 4 or 5 years then for no reason it stopped drawing a vacuum and I threw it away.
With the Mightyvac you do all the work at the caliper(s) as it draws a vacuum through the bleed nipples. With the pressure-bleeder at the top of my post it pressurizes the entire system and you simply walk around opening the bleed nipples so the brake fluid can come out.

 

Really wow! Now I know how to use it. Thanks for the instructions.


[/QUOTE=WD40;925212]Right. I used to have one just like it except without the "bicycle pump" on the side. Instead it had a pump handle on top of it. It worked for 4 or 5 years then for no reason it stopped drawing a vacuum and I threw it away.
With the Mightyvac you do all the work at the caliper(s) as it draws a vacuum through the bleed nipples. With the pressure-bleeder at the top of my post it pressurizes the entire system and you simply walk around opening the bleed nipples so the brake fluid can come out.[/QUOTE]

 

I do not think it matters really. I think that there may be four lengths of each nipple, S, L, LL and the number without a suffix, it being the nominal length.
As long as it’s length does not get in the way you are golden. Obviously if it is too long it may look ugly.
I would like one of the pressure bleeders, but at the price they are here - no way. I have tried the vacuum type but I saw micro bubbles from air entering around the thread. Stopping the leak seemed a pain in the you know what. So I pump the pedal with Speed Bleeders.

 

That being the case in any situation where one is uncertain the safe choice would always be the longer one. The one thing which would make any proper-thread-pitch bleed-nipple unsuited for purpose is if when seated it is so far down in the hole that you can both
1) No longer get a wrench around it, and
2) Even a thin-wall socket is too thick to follow the nipple down the hole.

Again though, at $15.00 per nipple they must be laughing all the way to the bank. And there is a perfectly good alternative which will allow me if/when the Depression hits, to walk down to the corner of highway 75 with my home-made sign proclaiming: "BRAKES BLED HERE. $20" How could one ignore THAT economic upside? My financial adviser will be so proud of me when next we speak! LOL

Of course the end result is ALWAYS the deciding factor and if the pressure-bleeder is unsatisfactory then bleed-nipples will be tossed into the mix as well. The best price in the world is one which leaves your mind at ease.
What is that Henry Royce quote? Something like:
"Strive for perfection in everything.
Take the best that exists and make it better.
If it doesn't exist, create it.
Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"

 

Reading that quotation makes you wonder why we accept mediocrity from our politicians.
Most of these mediocre politicians were probably mediocre lawyers at best and decided that feeding at the public trough was easier than being a lawyer.

 

I've been led to believe that a big part of our brake problem on XF's is the presence of air in the booster. This may, or may not, be true but it's what I've been told. With that in mind, does anyone know if the pressure bleeder can take care of that problem? The pressure bleeder seems like the way to go, if it will evacuate the whole system of any air.

I'll be interested in anyone's comments.

Jim

 

Jim, I'm going to find out. One of the good points about the pressure-bleeder is that it makes it EASY to move A LOT of fluid through the ENTIRE system. In deciding to buy one I watched my fair share of YouTube videos and the tip I kept getting was to operate the brake pedal SLOWLY a few times while each bleed-nipple (one at a time) is open (1/4-1/2 turn) to make sure to force all the old fluid out of the master cylinder. Following that advice you get all the advantages of every bleeding method.

Plus the pressure-bleeder never gets tired and says "Are we almost done?" It seems like the ultimate helper. Makes my job easier and doesn't complain!

 

The air can get into the ABS module, it gets behind pistons that need to be operated to remove the air. The pressure bleeder will not do that.

 

180 - Is there a way to get the air out from behind the ABS module? Can the ABS module be replaced thus eliminating the air behind it? Or is this the wrong path to go down? I'm not at all familiar with the ABS system and what can be done to improve the brakes on our XF's.

Jim

 

9An OBD2 bi-directional scanner that operates the ABS valves is required to get air out of the ABS this means they are expensive. Bi-directional means it gives commands to the car systems as well as reading from the car systems. Some operate GM valves but not ours. I am still looking for one.

 

Speaking of bleeding brakes, does anyone know if bleeding the whole system moves fluid through the ABS module or does it need to be cycled with a Scan tool to push any stagnant fluid through it?