thank you for your comments.
but i didnt say it went without issues...
i will get into that soon.
interesting to learn that the adjustment is not linear and to confirm that we can pick any position.
as you say, it is a matter of playing depending on our experience.

 

waxhell: 1 of the front shocks is 2 full turns stop to stop, but the other is just 1-1/4. wonder why?
and how i calibrate them so both have the same stifness?

 

waxhell: am under the impression that fronts feel more loose with same turns as the rears.
could this be due to that the rears are longer?
do you use same set for all?

 

am learning that even 1/4 turn is noticeable.

 

That's interesting -- I have never paid attention to how many turns to go from stop to stop. 1-1/4 turns seems a bit low for me.

I adjust mine based on trial and error as I'm looking to dial understeer and oversteer at the limits of handling.

This Koni article has a good primer on it:
KONI | Over Steer & Under Steer

 

thats what am doing now.

 

the largest bump stop (#2 in the drawing), has to be enlarged to fit over the shaft. and rubber bushings (4 and 6 in the drawing) have to be drilled too.

 

dust cover-not shown on the drawing, with the top rubber lid

 

bump stop washer-#3 in the drawing. it fits between the dust cover and the top rubber lid. has to be drilled too.

 

then you slid in place the spacer. #5 in the drawing

 

you have to carve the top edge of the insulation so the parts fit.

 

I still think that the definitive post on changing the shocks is this one by Downward Spiral CLICK
He changes the springs as well.

 

regarding the adjusting, am still in the process of evaluating it. it takes time and testing to reach the final setting. am learning that even small changes (1/4 turn) show great differences.
also, some times noise the fronts do tells you more than the feeling. still, worth the change. now it feels like a conventional car if you want (that is what i wanted).

 

contacted koni usa about the issue of the 1-1/4 turns only and they seem open to solve this. they suggested to try directly with them by the way of a claim, or to contact the supplier here in canada.
problem is, either way i dont know if they will ship the replacement before i send the defective, or first they want me to send back the defective 1, and as i disposed of the old ones then i have to wait for the replacement for who knows how long with my car grounded.
so, based on my experience, my advice to those who buy the parts is when you get them, before installing them, check that they turn 2 turns. if so, then proceed to install them. if not, then you contact them and follow the routine until get the replacement and again, test it before you install it. i believe that all this is worth the effort, as the results are that now we can adjust them to our satisfaction, and if in the future we want to change settings, is as simple as it can be.

 

 

The End

 

not so. i have learned that adjusting to my satisfaction is not so easy. but it is fun. it takes time and experimenting. and in my case, as the shocks were old (the car has some 65,000 miles in), they were not in the best shape (i already had replaced the rear 1s).
the 1st thing is the noise. with these it is quite noisy. i hear all kinds of clackety clackety, and it is easy to confuse that with the function of them.
but is easy to modify them, so is a matter of trying in different environments, and as i drive through several, is just a matter of using them. will tell....
of course, if there are some who have them installed and can bring their experience will be great. (waxhell?)

 

Guess not.🙄

 

I never realized how difficult R.&.R. of shocks could be until this thread. My Koni Sports have been on my SRT for 20k miles with no "clackety,clackety". Not sure what happened there.

 

Me too, I just put back the bumpers I took off the old shocks in the same order they came off. I have these shocks and had no trouble with them at all. I used the old dust covers after opening up to suit the larger shock rod, the new washer and the bushing because of the larger shock rod. I certainly did not chisel away at the sound proofing.