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So I am loving this forum, but I have an issue with lack of knowledge on my part. I have an aftermarket set of rims and I have the factory set of srt6 wheels that have used sumitomos tires. I didn't like all of the wobble and bounce at certain speeds. I put on a new steering damper and had the factory wheels put on. Much better low speed under 70mph. Over 70 and I think she will shake apart. So can you have the wheels check to see if there ture/ symmetrical? A lot of tire shops in my little town but I haven't had to use anyone in 5 years. But I will need help getting work done on this one.
Last question today has anyone run these tires AZENIS FK510. Be safe drive like hell!
Did you need 'hub-centric' spacers? If so, are they fitted correctly? Without the correct alignment of the wheel (you said aftermarket) to the hub, you could be having this bad 'vibration'. IF you do have a problem with the wheel/lug bolts/spacer problem you could tear up a set of rims pretty quickly! Good luck!
So yes the aftermarket wheels and Tires had spacers and they used the spacers on the factory wheels and tires too. The set that was on the car (aftermarket) were not very smooth, flat spots on the tires from sitting for almost a year.. (250 total miles)
the factory wheels and tires are alot smoother under 70 and then all hell breakes loose. I don't know what lug nuts I need., I have several..
I know I have a mess on my hands. Thanks I will update when I get things figured out
So yes the aftermarket wheels and Tires had spacers and they used the spacers on the factory wheels and tires too. The set that was on the car (aftermarket) were not very smooth, flat spots on the tires from sitting for almost a year.. (250 total miles)
the factory wheels and tires are alot smoother under 70 and then all hell breakes loose. I don't know what lug nuts I need., I have several..
I know I have a mess on my hands. Thanks I will update when I get things figured out
Just as in a problem with spacers, you need to make sure your using the correct lug bolts and make sure the length of them isn't too long or too short. Again, you can tear up a set of rims (as a minimum) not having the right fitment of aftermarket wheels to hub & lug bolts to rims/hub. Good luck!
The OEM SRT6 wheels do not need spacers; start by getting rid of the spacers and have the OEM wheels balanced.
A little farther down in this section you can find a picture and description of the OEM lug bolts.
I have the FK 510 on the rear of my SRT6. They require a lot more air pressure than the Michelin tires I usually run. The rear of the car was very squirrelly until I put 40 lbs of pressure in them. The are Okay, but I will go back to Michelins.
Stock wheels dont need spacers so get rid of that, secondly what size tires are you running? There is a such thing as to much tire which leads to a wobbling feeling. I know for me when I went to wide on the stock rear wheels (285) my car had a horrible shimmy it would do when I'd get on it from a roll. Ive since went back to stock size (255) and havent had issues. Also, all tire brands arent equal. Some are just horrible.
I just bought a set on my new to me regular coupe limited. So far they seem great, the reviews are fantastic both online and published, which is the one of the reasons why I got them, along with the price. Mounted and balanced with lifetime rotate & balance along with road hazard warranty, I paid a little over $900.
They seem quiet (as can be for a Crossfire), ride well, excellent grip. They have a strong reputation for rain driving as well, just note not a good tire for winter or winter temps. In fact there is a warning to warm them up in 20F degree weather before putting any force on them or they could be damaged, but this is similar to most summer tires.
I am avoiding any heavy driving for now until I can get an alignment on Monday. It should be noted that the last tires, a set of low end Barums lasted over 40K miles on this car, even though its staggered with a Eibach Pro-Kit lowered suspension. I hope these summer tires last at least 25,000 miles or so.
The OEM SRT6 wheels do not need spacers; start by getting rid of the spacers and have the OEM wheels balanced.
A little farther down in this section you can find a picture and description of the OEM lug bolts.
I have the FK 510 on the rear of my SRT6. They require a lot more air pressure than the Michelin tires I usually run. The rear of the car was very squirrelly until I put 40 lbs of pressure in them. The are Okay, but I will go back to Michelins.
Zip, the first part of the OP said he has aftermarket rims then put the OEM's on. IF they weren't mounted @ correct lug bolts (length/seats) properly they could have damaged the aftermarket rims. He then put the OEM wheels on and still had a problem BUT he didn't say whether or not he used the same bolts (if wrong could explain the continuation of problem). Thanks for the tidbit about higher pressure. OP didn't mention if the OEM rims were mounted with the OEM size tires.
Originally Posted by philosophico
Stock wheels dont need spacers so get rid of that, secondly what size tires are you running? There is a such thing as to much tire which leads to a wobbling feeling. I know for me when I went to wide on the stock rear wheels (285) my car had a horrible shimmy it would do when I'd get on it from a roll. Ive since went back to stock size (255) and havent had issues. Also, all tire brands arent equal. Some are just horrible.
Phil, Basically same answer I gave Zip BUT I didn't know about the 'too much tire' problem with 'handling' (OP didn't mention if the OEM wheels have OEM size tires). Thanks for that tidbit!
OP, start from scratch and verify OEM vs aftermarket rims AND fitment of correct STYLE of bolts (seat and length for your configuration).
So I didn't give enough info when put up my post originally. The factory wheels they put on have the correct sizes front and rear tires.225/40/18 & 255/35/19
I know they didn't use the correct lug bolts because they used the spacers from the aftermarket wheels. They were longer than the OEM LUG bots. I have spoken another tire service (Discount) bought a set of Toyo tires an we are going to check all the wheels first to see if they are symmetrical. Then I'm staying with the factory wheels and purchased thru Advanced Auto lug bolts. Chrysler discontinued oem lug bolts. Oct. 7th is when I'm charging everything and until then I just won't drive her.
I know alot of people say thanks abd great Forum, but it is a fantastic community and I for one really appreciate all of the feed back and help!!!
Since e factory wheels don't require spacers to get a proper fit, I agree with others that the spacers need to be set aside. In addition, the factory wheels require a "ball" seat lug bolt and most after-market wheels require a "cone" seat lug bolt. (Note: After-market wheels specifically designed to fit a Mercedes-Benz vehicle could have the "ball" seat mounting holes.) Since your factory wheels were installed using the spacers & longer after-market "cone" lug bolts, the car probably shakes like hell and is dangerous to drive!
Correct factory lug bolts for factory wheels are 12 x 1.5 Ball Seat with 39-40mm long shank.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Oct 11, 2021 at 09:19 AM.
Thank you and I ended up getting a set of Toyo Extensa HPUII, all season High Preformance. OEM sizes and it made a great transition. Feel, Ride, Dry grip is excellent. My SRT6 Roadster is so much fun to drive and now feels better in your hands . The only problem now is my wife loves the car and wants to drive too fast! Ha Ha
Thanks to all who replied and I will have a factory set of wheels an center caps for sale next month. Dive Fast
Azenis fk510
Did you need 'hub-centric' spacers? If so, are they fitted correctly? Without the correct alignment of the wheel (you said aftermarket) to the hub, you could be having this bad 'vibration'. IF you do have a problem with the wheel/lug bolts/spacer problem you could tear up a set of rims pretty quickly! Good luck! 
Just as in a problem with spacers, you need to make sure your using the correct lug bolts and make sure the length of them isn't too long or too short. Again, you can tear up a set of rims (as a minimum) not having the right fitment of aftermarket wheels to hub & lug bolts to rims/hub. Good luck! 
Zip, the first part of the OP said he has aftermarket rims then put the OEM's on. IF they weren't mounted @ correct lug bolts (length/seats) properly they could have damaged the aftermarket rims. He then put the OEM wheels on and still had a problem BUT he didn't say whether or not he used the same bolts (if wrong could explain the continuation of problem). Thanks for the tidbit about higher pressure. OP didn't mention if the OEM rims were mounted with the OEM size tires. 
