How are you doing guys?
I am back again with my crossfire questions. Most of you might know from 2 months back. I posted about my crossfire that was flooded in the trunk last year before i bought it. The car is currently in my garage and i have been working on it.

UPDATE: I have done a lot of testings in it and i realized that the electronics are working fine.
-- The Vacuum pump module in the trunk is working
--Power locks is working
-- interior lights are working

Basically all the electronics are functioning but the car won't crank or start. I have tried to jump the starter from the blue wire in the RCM and the starter sound to be very weak and the wire gets very hurt when i do that! Making me believe that my starter might be going bad.

Symptoms:

--When i turn the car, i get all the lights in the dashboard but it never goes away. It just stays there with the beeping sound.
--When i turn the key, i can hear the fuel pump coming on.
--when i turn the key, the module clicks in the hood
--when i turn the key, i can test the spark plugs and i am getting some power coming to the spark plugs.
--While the key is in start mode, i hear this annoying dieing sound coming from the wiper compartment(or whatever is called).

At this point i am pretty sure the electronics is good but i am not sure if the computer is recognizing my key or Skreem Module.

Please my friends, how can i test if the key is recognized?
At this point i want to rule out possible the starter or engine problem. So how can i bypass all the modules and turn the engine in the crossfire? Is that even possible?

Please let me know your inputs. You guys have been amazing and i thank each and everyone of you!

 

Is the battery fully charged? The noise by the wipers sounds like the siren failing.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Yes the battery is fully charged. If the siren failed, what does that mean? You think the key lost program?

 

Please i need some help with this issue. Is a long one but i will appreciate any input.

thanks

 

Forget the siren for now.
How do you know the battery is fully charged.
Is there any corrosion on the battery cables?
The key will still turn over the engine even if there is a problem with the chip in the fob.
Your problem is the starter is not getting any power or it is busted.
You could put power to the starter directly just buy hooking the cables directly to a battery.

 

Thanks for writing.

I took the battery to auto zone and got it checked there. I also used the tester i have at home to test it out. It was 11.7 both in autozone and in my tester.
I tried putting a wire through the starter wire in the RCM to try to jump the starter, when i do that i can hear the starter try to spin but it acts as if there is no enough voltage for it and just slowly dies. I have a new starter that i bought. When i try running a cable from the same battery to the new starter, it spins and runs continuously. Mind you, the battery cables get very hot when i do this.
What exactly does this mean?
I always thought that no matter what, the key should at least make the starter that it has now to try and turn over(even if dies).
What do you think i should i do next?

 

What do you mean?
Wires get hot when they are not large enough to carry the amperage being drawn.
A battery should put out more than 11.7 mine puts out 12.4 at the moment.

 

What i mean is that, there is a wire going from the RCM to the starter. I tried jumping the starting from that wire through the RCM and the starter will spin but it fades pretty quick. Like something that does not have enough voltage to power it. This made me think that maybe the starter is not good anymore.

Where do you think i should start in the diagnosis?

 

At the risk of sounding like an idiot here I had a few things to add. I just resolved this issue today. Put key in and only got the dash lights, same sound from under the hood like the fuel pump etc. I disconnected the NEGATIVE terminal on the battery, waited maybe 5 minutes and reattached. Then took both of my keys and re-synced:

Pointed key FOB at ignition, not inserting mind you

then pressed the open or closed button 2 times ( at this time the turn signals flashed)

then put key in ignition and turned it to the ON position where the dash light come on ( not all the way like I want to start the car)

at this time several things happened like lights flashing and clicking noises, etc.

I then hoped for the best and the car fired right up

The tips I got on the forum suspected the Relay Control Module issue that is well documented and requires a battery disconnect of the negative terminal. When this issue happens I think it un-programs your key FOB which requires the re-sync I mentioned. If the SKREEM does not recognise your FOB's it will immobilize the vehicle instantly. The forum has much to say on this exact issue and scenario. Hope this helps.

 

Give credit where credit is due, MrMiata appears to have solved your problem.

You just have to point the fob at the car, not the ignition, the halo around the ignition key hole has nothing to do with the door opening programming that you did. The chip inside the fob cannot be programmed by the owners.

The RCM does not require a battery disconnect, the SKREEM seems to benefit from a disconnect.
The fobs door opening ability is not affected by the disconnect at all. The security chip inside the fob is not affected by the disconnect at all.

It is the reverse of what you say, the SKREEM can get confused and not recognize the fob. The fob loses its memory for the door opening command when the batteries fail or are removed for some time.

 

At this point I've absorbed so many bits of "technical chit" on the forum relating to all of the many electrical eccentricities of the Crossfire things have blurred together as I try to anticipate any and all issues I have in my future as well as currently with this beast hoping to not end up on the side of the road far from home. I was reluctant to offer my 2 cents to begin with at the risk of blowing it and sure enough I buggered it up so in the future I'll gladly leave it to the more seasoned veterans. The forum is an awesome resource without a doubt and I'm thankful I don't have to explore all this on my own.

 

No keep adding your thoughts to the forum, it is a learning experience. If you say something wrong then it is in everyone's interest to get the facts straightened out by someone who hopefully knows.
It is also wise to keep your problems in one thread otherwise answers pop up in both and it can get confusing.

 

Thanks to both of you for your input.

I am going to try this procedure and see if it works. I will let you guys know what i find.

Thanks a lot. I will surely come back with my findings

 

I ran to the garage and tried this procedure but it didn't work for me.

What else do you guys think i should try? I hear a module clicking. which module is that?

 

Please guys i have not yet resolved this issue. I have been trying so hard to know exactly what is wrong with this car and am yet to figure anything out.
Please someone help me out with this. What scanner can i use to know exactly which module is communicating and which one is not.

UPDATE: I found that the previous owner changed the BCM(has a mark on it). I don't know if it was changed before it had the problem or before it had the problem. What issues should i get if the BCM is not matching the car? What do you guys suggest to get this car fixed?
Thanks and waiting for your response.