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Today I looked into how to unbolt the drivers seat so I could investigate a problem with the rear up down motor stuck all the way up. It looks like I'm going to need new tools, I don't have sockets like that.
But, while scoping everything out, I noticed the motor wasn't even plugged in. The pigtail was right there. I plugged it in expecting something crazy to happen. Instead, no surprise. I operated the switch and boom, it worked perfect. This could have been expensive but I got out cheap.
Aww damn... Hope that doesn't happen to me (even though I have a set of keyed lug bolts, then bastages have ways around those as well). Sucks having to buy rims and tires...
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my Jeep was broken into and they stole the tire tools and the key to my lug nuts. So I took it to the tire place and they used what could be described as a bolt extractor and had them off in seconds. Cost me $80 to get the tire dealer to remove them. You can be sure i ordered the extra key this time. I know it might actually make their job easier, I have what they call "tuner lug nuts" that requires a special socket but they are very common. I have them on my race car too. Same spline.
So tomorrow morning I am going to look at a black 2005 NA Coupe, manual shift.
The guy says it won't start, and I won't know for sure till I see it, he may be having the stuck key issue.
I'm taking another car guy with me, but neither of us know a lot about the R170 platform.
It's going to probably cost me nearly 2k to get it in my driveway. I'm not sure what's going on or going wrong.
I'll keep y'all posted as to how it looks and what I find.
Ok, so I went to look at the $1500 Crossfire. I turned it down, it was sad to see such a ragged out little car. The interior was ruined, broken pieces everywhere. The seats were in shreads, the headliner was falling off. Wheels were all curb burned. Bad. Knee bolster was broken off in his failed effort to remove the key. Just trash. He contacted me later and said he'd take $800 for it, but I figured that was about $900 too much.
I replaced the hood lift support a.k.a. hood shock. A helper would have been nice, but I held the hood up with a motorcycle tie down and a hook in the ceiling.
I did a write up on the fakebook page for people who've never worked on cars before or wanted reference pics.
Nice writeup and photos are always helpful ... I will add, when I changed my hood support I only changed the cylinder. I left the outer tube attached at the top and simply slide the cylinder out by pressing the 90 deg buttons. The bottom I did the same as you described. Either way will get the job done.
Nice writeup and photos are always helpful ... I will add, when I changed my hood support I only changed the cylinder. I left the outer tube attached at the top and simply slide the cylinder out by pressing the 90 deg buttons. The bottom I did the same as you described. Either way will get the job done.
Great idea!
I never thought of that.
Thanks for the kind words about the write up.
Had a couple of things lately I've been doing to the car, Cut out the rear baskets and swapped the 6" Speakers with 6x9's, a friend is fabricating a grille for it now, once that's completed I'll finish cutting the carpet, rewired some of the Audio, added sound dampening to the entire car which really killed the road noise and surprisingly a lot of the plastic squeaking. Changed out wheels and tires, 18x8.5 in the front and 19x10 in the rear, sent the OE SRT Wheels off to be polished and detailed to be sold on Ebay probably. Some guy has a set on there for $3k that they repainted in chrome. If I could get around there with the new Hankook Tires, I'd be happy. Then I got the Flu, so I haven't been doing much of anything for the last week.
I have owned my Crossfire for two months now and here is what I have accomplished. I replaced the steering torsion bar (stabilizer), I polished both headlights, replaced the antenna, polished the paint, detailed the engine bay, changed the oil, filter and drain plug seal, flushed and replaced the brake fluid, flushed and replaced the power steering fluid, checked the transmission fluid level and inspected the fluid, flushed the cooling system and replaced the antifreeze, replaced the thermostat, removed the siren, cleaned out the drains, installed new wiper blade nut caps, replaced the air filter, replaced the cabin filter and cleaned the fan, upgraded the passenger seat to 8-way, installed a new radio/CD/Bluetooth/USB/Alexa, installed the OEM wind screen, inspected the differential fluid, replaced the right front fender liner (old one was cracked bad), purchased an OEM cigarette lighter, purchased a new RCM, purchased a new fan resister and purchased a new crankshaft position sensor. I am going to change out the RCM before I take another long drive. It's a good thing the weather was bad so I could get this all done but now it's time to enjoy it more.
Excellent review of the things you have done. I just bought a totally stock, 35K miles, and most likely like it came from the factory 19 years ago, 2005 Roadster. I needed a guideline of the things to do to bring it up to par.
That's a lot of stuff you did. My original list of things to do just got longer.
Yea the hard part is every car has been treated differently. a lot of the long term members use their cars for daily drivers and have a lot of miles on them. For my car I know almost it entire history. It was bought in Rhode Island then sold to someone in Pennsylvania in 2014 with 25K miles on it. That second owner new the dealership people and knew that the gar was always garaged and never driven in the winter as he also did himself. he then moved to Florida in 2020 and later that year sold it to his neighbor that I know. They also drove it very little and kept it in the garage. I bought it with 44K miles on it. The under side of the car is very clean and not a spot of rust. the rubber seals on the car all look brand new. so if you had a car treated like this it's a lot different than buying a 100K+ car that spent most of it's life outside. The fluids are the most important because time is hard on them but inspect the other items to see if they really need replacement. Within a few minutes of posting it I was told to replace the brake hoses by a member. That's probably not going to happen right away because they look great and are very flexible. The parts I bought are the parts that have failed the most on these cars and they are getting harder to find every day so I want them on hand just in case. The biggest thing is know your car. Also I bought mine in Florida and then drove it to Myrtle Beach 500 miles and only replaced the front tires that were 10 years old before the trip.
If and when you do here's the part numbers for Stoptech stainless steel braided brake hoses available through Amazon & auto parts stores . Car-part.com , Ebay and Facebook marketplace are your go to places for used parts Braided stainless steel brake lines front 950.35001
rear 950.35500
I bought a set of Goodridge 'G-Stop' SS Brake Lines from Needswings.com when I flushed & refilled the brake system on my 2007 Coupe back in 2016. A little pricey but like to keep Needswings supported when I can. Kit fit perfectly on the Crossfire. I also installed Speed Bleeder wheel cylinder bleed screws during this maintenance. I highly recommend these - simplifies bleeding effort to a 1-man task.
Right Rear
Left Front
Last edited by dedwards0323; Feb 9, 2024 at 07:16 PM.
Thanks for those. I am 71 and have owned 60 motor vehicles in my life. I have been working on cars from junior high on doing rebuilds, restorations, modifications and repairs so it doesn't get any easier crawling around on floors but my least favorite thing on a car is brake fluid. It is the worst fluid ever to work with. Not to mention I hate to pay someone for doing something I can do. I will most likely replace them.
Correct me if I am wrong. It takes 2 types of speed bleeders. SB8125LL in the rear and SB8125L in the front and they will fit my 2006 Limited Roadster.