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pull neg lead THEN turn on lights? with no electrons moving around what would that do? would just pulling the lead for ten minutes do the same?
Pull the ABS sensors on each wheel?
Its just a way to expell any charge in the system. You can also just touch, positive an negative cables together, after they're removed.
Since it looks like the next thing to do is check the ABS sensors and mine are 12 years old I just plan on replacing all of them with new ones from FCPEURO. I will update when I get them on next week.
Dan
Well this mourning I replaced all four ABS sensors, rears are very easy the front plug mates with the brake pad sensor so at first it looked like I got the wrong cables. They clip together to plug in. Well I did the wheel turning procedure twice and the light is still on!
So what next, the yaw sensor? Where is it located in the car?
Dan
The yaw sensor is hidden under the center console.
When you replaced the ABS sensors at the wheels, did you check that none of the 'tone' rings were broken or missing teeth ?
Last edited by ala_xfire; Oct 15, 2017 at 11:21 AM.
My light has stayed off since I bled the brakes back in the spring. Now it is back on and off at times. When on, I just cycle the key off and back on and it stays off for a while. Not sure what to do as I have done all the common fixes. No other symptoms. Could this be an RCM issue with one of the relays?
James
Originally Posted by UK Sid
This light is a pest.
Mine has a mind of its own.
It will come on when driving, be off the next time I restart and stay off for weeks.
It will then do the same again for no apparent reason!
Well this mourning I replaced all four ABS sensors, rears are very easy the front plug mates with the brake pad sensor so at first it looked like I got the wrong cables. They clip together to plug in. Well I did the wheel turning procedure twice and the light is still on!
So what next, the yaw sensor? Where is it located in the car?
Dan
Any codes set?
My BAS/ESP light came on when my throttle body got a piece of a cone filter jammed in it, so I'd say that light can come on for any reason. Check for codes, the CEL light does not come on for all reasons.
After changing the sensors did you drive the car for some distance after clearing any code?
Last edited by onehundred80; Oct 15, 2017 at 01:21 PM.
If your cruise control is not working then you need to replace your brake light switch for sure. I have to replace mine about every year or two.
Possibly the brake light switch is faulty, it is not definite that is is the reason.
The BAS/ESP light comes on for many reasons, many seemingly unrelated to the wheel speed sensors.
Possibly the brake light switch is faulty, it is not definite that is is the reason.
The BAS/ESP light comes on for many reasons, many seemingly unrelated to the wheel speed sensors.
I guarantee that is the reason. Actually it is either the brake lights will not light up or the cruise control will not work. I learned this in the Mercedes forums. I've had to change mine more than a few times so I know from personal experience. If you have a good code reader it will also say stop lamp inoperable or something similar.
Well this mourning I replaced all four ABS sensors, rears are very easy the front plug mates with the brake pad sensor so at first it looked like I got the wrong cables. They clip together to plug in. Well I did the wheel turning procedure twice and the light is still on!
So what next, the yaw sensor? Where is it located in the car?
Dan
Did you do a resistance check for all for sensors? Voltage supply check from the controller module? Did you get the actual codes for the light? Unless you do this could get pricy just throwing parts at it. There are too many reasons for this light like 180 said.
My light has stayed off since I bled the brakes back in the spring. Now it is back on and off at times. When on, I just cycle the key off and back on and it stays off for a while. Not sure what to do as I have done all the common fixes. No other symptoms. Could this be an RCM issue with one of the relays?
James
Might you have a spongy flexible hose somewhere? Under brake pressure it will expand.
Brake switch ordered! Will report back on the subject once installed.
Not sure what kind of code reader will work with that system.
James
Originally Posted by Ronman
I guarantee that is the reason. Actually it is either the brake lights will not light up or the cruise control will not work. I learned this in the Mercedes forums. I've had to change mine more than a few times so I know from personal experience. If you have a good code reader it will also say stop lamp inoperable or something similar.
If your cruise control is not working then you need to replace your brake light switch for sure. I have to replace mine about every year or two.
If you have to replace it every year or two then you have an underlying problem that you are not fixing. I wish I had the answer for you guys but I don't. This is something that I haven't had to deal with yet.
If you have to replace it every year or two then you have an underlying problem that you are not fixing. I wish I had the answer for you guys but I don't. This is something that I haven't had to deal with yet.
🤔 I was thinking the exact same thing when I read it.
The switch came in at lunch and I installed it. So far so good with a long spin around the block. Time will tell...
I took the original apart and found that one contact point was looking bad. This contact is closed when your foot is off the brake. When I get time, I am going to look over the wiring diagram.
I guarantee that is the reason. Actually it is either the brake lights will not light up or the cruise control will not work. I learned this in the Mercedes forums. I've had to change mine more than a few times so I know from personal experience. If you have a good code reader it will also say stop lamp inoperable or something similar.
The cruise control will not work if one or more of the wheel speed sensors fails, or if the steering wheel sensor fails, I have forget the name for it at the moment.
If the yaw sensor fails, if the ABS module fails somewhere in the circuitry. If the throttle plate jams. Those are just of the top of my head, apart from the brake switch which I said can cause the same lamp to light.
Nothing is guaranteed like you say, it is possible that the switch is kaput we will see.
The switch came in at lunch and I installed it. So far so good with a long spin around the block. Time will tell...
I took the original apart and found that one contact point was looking bad. This contact is closed when your foot is off the brake. When I get time, I am going to look over the wiring diagram.
WOW! Also interesting how the new one as a little longer. Does that mean the brake lights come on sooner when the pedal is pushed?