you could have a weak ground, ,make sure your batt - cable is grounded to the body of the car and the body is grounded to the engine. even if they look and check ok, the movement of the car can make then loose ground so loosen them and retighten the ground spots on the car.

Page 8W-91-9 of the 2004 Service Manual. hope you downloaded the manual.

GROUNDS
GROUND LOCATION FIG.
G100 Left Side of Engine Compartment N/S
G101 Right Side of Engine Compartment 8
G104 Top Front of Engine N/S
G107 Right Side of Engine Compartment, Battery Negative Ground 8
G200 Behind Left Side of Instrument Panel at Base of Windshield N/S
G201 Lower Left Footwell Behind Kickpanel N/S
G202 Under the Center Console at the Occupant Restraint Controller 7
G203 Under the Center Console 7
G204 Lower Right Footwell Behind Kickpanel 5
G205 Upper Left Rear Passenger Compartment N/S
G206 Lower Right Footwell Behind Kickpanel 5
G300 Left Luggage Compartment Behind Trim Panel N/S
G301 Lower Right Luggage Compartment Behind Trim Panel 3
G303 Upper Right Luggage Compartment Behind Trim Panel 3

good luck.

 

Here is how you measure the standby current:

Place the meter in series with the ground cable (as you have done).
REMOVE KEY, close doors, and wait at least two minutes. DO NOT CONCERN YOURSELF with the current reading for two minutes!)

Specification is less than 55 mA - that is, less than .055 amp.

Fuse 8 is battery feed to the radio, if you have that much current and fuse 8 makes it go away, take the radio out of the dash and drive over it with your lawnmower. Then, throw it away and go buy a new one.

 

Sound like the battery cable from the battery to the alternator/starter is shorting to ground. This causes way too much current to flow thru both battery and alternator - and neither of them will tolerate that for very long.

Your comment about the smell of hot wiring also fits with my theory. SOMEONE better look closely at the battery cable from the battery to the starter and then to the alternator. Keep in mind that it is POSSIBLE for a starter solenoid to internally short to ground.

This is the best I can come up with.

 

We had the same problem about 3 years ago and replaced the module.

Now we have a new problem. Security system Lockdown - Doors won't unlock/lock with the key fob, car won't start, Little green light on the console turns on, flashers blink.

We can put the car in neutral to tow.

Mechanic has tried replacing the batteries in the Key FOB, programming the fob and synchronizing the fob transmitter. Nothing has worked.

Anyone have any additional things to try?

Franklindm

 

I have allwas found strange electronic problems are usually due to bad grounds. Go get some extra ground cables and attach engine to frame and battery.

 

A few thinks jump out at me. Since you have to 'tow', check the RCM, it is located between the battery and center of the car inside the big black box. The RCM is closest to the center of the car. Also then check the lower back (pseudo trunk) below the two foam inserts inside the rear hatch floor, for water. I like to just pop a hole in one or both rubber plugs from below the car rearward of the axles near the center. If water comes out, you might have a flooded central locking pump module located below and to the right of those two foam inserts where the fix-a-flat and jack is located. Good luck!


.

 

Do not tow, use a flat bed to move it.

 

What Dave Said.

 

.


What Pizzaguy said about what Dave said! Never tow a crossfire! I missed saying that seeing as you already had done it. Nuff said!


.

 

Thank you to all who replied. We had AAA tow the car to a Chrysler Dealer in Gilroy CA. because we had bad experiences with our local dealer.
Within 2 hours they had diagnosed the problem as the SKIM module.

The Key Fob would not unlock/lock the doors without putting the key in the door lock, the lights and radio worked but the key in the on position did not work and the car would not start. The little green light in the lower left portion of the control panel flashed on and off.
We replaced the batteries in the Key Fob and reprogrammed the Fob, it still would not work.

The SKIM module had to be specially ordered and is taking a month to receive, expected date is 2/28/2020.

More to come when it is installed.

 

It isnt SKIM, It is SKREEM. You are wasting time and money at a dealer. HE will not repair your SKREEM module and replacing it without checking for water in the lower trunk sets you up for another damaged SKREEM. YOU MUST USE THE SEARCH BOX IN THE UPPER RIGHT CORNER OF THE FORUM and search SKREEM. Read the posts and you will understand what I have said. REMOVE car from dealers as quickly as you can; 99% of them are bottomless money pits.

 

You are/seem hellbent on believing a dealer is more qualified to repair your car. Maybe even already committed in giving them (or already have) gobs of monies. Your choice... You have been a member for quite a while, apparently you either don't believe the MANY examples of the troubles dealers have with fixing these cars (even after $$$$$'s of dollars spent) OR with your extremely limited post count, are here in name only...... Good luck with your car, you'll pay a huge amount to have parts thrown at it (or getting ripped off for something as simple as a RCM and/or central locking pump module), until convinced to trade to another car, or came back here for help. Either way, its your money!


.

 

I think the SKIM they are talking about is code for scimming your bank account.😉
What green light?
The fob relies on the proper functioning of the air pump in the trunk, does the key open the trunk hatch when manually opening the door? If it does the pump is fine normally.
The fob problem is a minor problem, maybe your RCM is faulty and that is causing the problem. Does the starter make the engine rotate? Saying start means the engine is running. Many terms are used and can mean different things to different people.

 

GraphiteGhost,

Thank you for your reply. I may be ignorant of how to properly search the forum for information and help, but I am not stupid as you seem to indicate in your post.

I was fortunate to have found this forum some time ago and use it when we encounter problems before we take or car to anyone for service. I an more technically challenged than most of your members as I don't have the knowledge that many of you have achieved over the years; but I sincerely appreciate the vast experience this forum provides.

Franklindm

 

onehundred80,
The doors and trunk unlock and lock with the Key. About 2 0r 3 years ago we had the RCM module replaced for the stop, no start problem and appreciate the support we received for that issue. When we said in our earlier post and stated the car was towed, it was placed on a Flat Bed for that purpose.
Today we were told that the SKREEM module is not available anymore through Chrysler or Mercedes Benz. I will be looking through the forum for issues with the SKREEM module. When we replaced the RCM module we kept the original module and I will solder the pins as previously mentioned. If you have any suggestions for removing the SKREEM module and any tooling required please let me know. Thank yo for your time and consideration. franklindm

 

Fine, but does the starter engage or not? THIS is what will tell us where to go next.
It sounds to me like the SKREEM is fine, reading between the lines in your posts.

 

. This will show how to remove. I have found a place in Florida that repairs them from another member. I don't remember who. https://mdp-services.com/crossfire-solutions

 

ok........

What does that mean? You said the lights and radio worked, this means the car powers up in the 'on' position.

That is meaningless. Did the starter engage or not?
If it did, did it engage three times and then refuse to engage again?

There is no green light.

See why you are getting static? You are not telling us what is really going on.
"The car would not start" - I know you THINK this is an informative statement, but it isn't.

1) The car engaged the starter but the engine wont' start.
or...
2) The starter refuses to engage.

If it is 1) It is not the SKREEM anyway. If it is 2) is is not the SKREEM unless it engages the starter for three attempts and then fails to engage the starter until you disconnect and reconnect the battery. Then, you get three more cranks out of the starter - THAT is a bad SKREEM.

 

pizzaguy,

The starter does not engage.

After reading the posts in the SKREEM section I have gathered the following items to check. 1. check for water in the lower trunk, remove the foam liner. 2. Disconnect the battery, disengage the Siren Alarm in the Cowel, remove Fuse 9 inside the driver's door fuse box and reconnect the battery. Am I correct with the location of Fuse 9?

Thank you for the additional information.

franklindm

 

The fuses at the driver's end of the dash are lighting fuses only. You want the fuse box on the driver's side, under the hood.

If the starter DOES NOT engage, the SKREEM is not indicated as the issue.

Do this:

Get in car, close door.
Put key in ignition, turn to "START" - observe that the starter does not engage.
Release key so it goes back, to "ON".
Wait 30 seconds - do you hear the engine cooling fan warp to high speed? z

If so, the Fan module has powered up, but the ECM has not powered up. This is usually an easy fix.
If the engine fan does not speed up to high speed, we have more investigation to do.