I have a 2007 Crossfire 6 speed standard. Less than 10k miles. About three months ago it would not start. Turn they key and nothing happens. It started about a month prior without any problems, except the chronic issue with the soft top not working, and the rear window fell out about 5 years ago. I keep it in a garage all the time.. To make a long story short, had it towed to my local chrysler dealer, and about a month ago they told me it was a bad PCM or so they think, but they cannot get me one. Called Chrylser and spoke to someone in their consumer department who called me today and basically told me he is unable or unwilling to help me as they no longer make or support the product. Does anyone know where I can get one of these. I found a couple of places on line, but nor too sure how legit they are and still not even sure it is the PCM.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Doug

 

Not THIS again...

The PCM (Powertrain Control Module, also called an ECM) is not bad and the dealer is not competent. Have the car towed home. We can go from there. There are a few simple tests you can do that will tell us what is going on.

If you turn the key to START and the starter does not engage, release key to "ON". Wait 30 seconds - does engine cooling fan warp up to high speed? If so, yank the RCM and mail it to DJ in Arizona and he will rebuild it for around $60. Or just order one from one of the many suppliers (for around $160). If the fan does not warp up to high speed, we have other checks for you to do.

Also, see my sigline.

 

FOLLOW PIZZAGUYS ADVICE! You have already wasted money at the dealer.

 

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THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WHEN SOMEONE JOINS THE MOST HELPFUL FORUM, READS THE DAILY/HISTORICAL POSTS, AND GOES TO A DEALER & POSSIBLY GETS RIPPED OFF. We all heard this thing hundreds of times here in the forum. ALL IS NOT LOST! Have you been following the forum relating to stealership support history????? Listen very carefully to the experienced members (most of them). If you listen to them all, cross check all of them UNLESS your totally pissed and just want to dump the car or part it out. GET THE CAR HOME! GET YOUR CAR HOME!!!! Your going to have to pay any bill demanding YOUR MONEY (trust me, eventually your going to pay SOMETHING one way or another). IF your still owning it, be patient and try to work with the membership. If your not able to get it running your no further behind than you are right now. Decide to dump it or part it out. If you 'TRADE' it in you got suckered AGAIN. Your decision, GOOD LUCK!.


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So here is the latest. Only out 350 dollars and a backache. Picked the car up from the dealer who now says they no longer will service crossfires as it is a merecedes product and not a chrysler. In any case charge me 30 dollars to patch a tire and 300 for diagnostic charges. My son and I pushed the car on to a uhaul car trailer and brought it home. When I turn the key the engines turns over but will not catch. Sounds like its not getting fuel. It has less than 10k miles and the last time it started was about 5 or six months ago , about a month before I brought it to the dealer. Drove it then for about thirty or so miles and it was okay. Other issues with the car are the top is nonfunctional but this has been an issue since the rear window fell out about three years ago or so.

Thanks for any help.

Doug

 

Doug. Couple of things to try.
Can you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds when you first turn the key to the ON position? It's under the car near the passenger rear wheel.
Have you checked for fuel pressure on the fuel rail in the engine compartment?
Try spraying starter fluid (or something flammable) into the intake and see if the car runs while you are spraying.

What happens?

 

Also, if the rear window has been out for that long and if any water got in the trunk area it might have damage to the electronics under the floor in the trunk area.

 

Sprayed the starting fluid in and the car will run for about a second and then dies. The instructions on the fluid say spray for only 2 seconds and then try to start the car, so this is what I did. The car has been kept in a garage ever since the rear window fell out, and other then some moldy smell from it being in a garage all this time there is no evidence of water damage to the vehicle. Will go down now and see if I can hear the pump running, though I would have thought the dealer would have checked this out while it was in his shop since October! Unfortunately, no one else is home now and not sure if I will hear it.

 

No one who is trying to diagnose a car that cranks but won't start - should be without one of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-5630

You'd know the condition of the fuel pump/filter in a few seconds, as easy as checking tire pressure. I've only used mine one time, but WOW did it pay for itself. IT comes with two fittings, so it fits the majority of fuel rails.

 

Further information. When I turn the key but do not try to start the car I hear a sound possibly fuel pump for about 2 seconds or less. If I try to start the car it turns over but does not catch, and if I then stop trying and try again nothing happens, If I turn the key to off however and try to start it will turnover but not catch. Checked the rear compartment and see no evidence of water damage or pooling ever. The spoiler is deployed however. Not sure if this helps. Its low on gas at just above an 1/8 of a tank so I guess it could be something as simple as not having enough gas in the tank, and so I will go to the gas station and get 5 gals and put it in and see if that makes a difference but I somewhat doubt it.

 

Will buy the fuel pressure gauges tomorrow, and check it out. I would have hoped the dealer check that out before jumping to the PCM...but who knows.

 

Do not go to a dealer, find an independent shop that works on Mercedes. It is an SLK 320 .

 

With a dealer, you have little 'hope'. Again, there is a reason we DO NOT take these cars to dealers.

(Well, there is a reason I do not take ANYTHING to a dealer, I would not take my Ford Ranger to a Ford dealer.)

 

Once you let the key go back to "on" from "start", you cannot engage the starter again until you turn the key to "off", this is a function of the design of the electronics and is normal.
I don't like it, but it's normal.

 

"The spoiler is deployed."
That brings up another possibility. Traction control relay in the relay control module. Here's how to check.

Remove and open the RCM.

You Tube

Reattach the connections being careful to not let it touch any metal.
Turn the key to the ON position. Look at the relays. Two of the three middle relays should remain closed (engaged). The third middle relay (fuel relay) should close for 2 seconds then reopen.

Is this what you see?

 

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Can the RCM be removed without removing the NEG battery terminal first (without any problems with any system)?


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Best check the battery voltage. If You do not have at least 12v then you need to charge the battery. A weak battery often deploys the wing.

 

Yes the RCM can be removed without disconnecting the battery.

 

This kind of stuff has made me swear off ALL DODGE/CHRYSLER products - the dealers are merchants looking for fast big money nothing else. SCREW them I bought a Nissan armada with 390 hp instead of the hemi durango to replace my hemi durango !! Never go to the dealer, find an honest shop instead. Woody Last 5 vehicles were dodges.................

 

THAT really freaked me out the first time I noticed it! I wonder how many no start posts were only that feature?