Crankshaft Position Sensor Modification
My Ford F150's fuel pump relay was made of aluminum and bolted directly to the steel frame. I read about fuel pump issues with the F150 and 80% of the time it isn't the fuel pump but the Fuel Pump relay completely corrodes since it was attached to steel (wonder who the genius at Ford was who came up with that OEM attachment method and placement). I went under my F150 and luckily caught it in time... The back side of the relay where it was touching the steel frame was corroded to the point I pushed my finger right through it into the electronic insides. The replacement I put in came with stand-off rubber bushings so the aluminum Relay does not come in contact with the steel frame.
I carry a couple of extra 8 mm screws for the CPS just in case I drop the original when I'm either removing or installing the CPS. I've got an 8 inch long flexible 1/4" drive extension that works well when doing this maintenance. But I prefer the 12" 1/4" inch drive wobble extension. And I agree with others, best method is to remove CPS & mounting screw together with cable connection intact. Once you get the drive extension & mounting screw out of the way, the cable connection is a piece of cake. (Note: I always worry about damaging the cable connector when I can't see exactly how it is locked in place. Expecially since these cars are approaching 15-20 years old! Doing that could make things difficult going forward.) Likewise, the reverse method is highly recommended for those that haven't had to do this maintenance.
Last edited by dedwards0323; Feb 18, 2022 at 04:27 PM.
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