Tips required to make a double din face plate
Tips required to make a double din face plate
The title says it all, I think that by taking two face plates for the radio and AC, one double DIN face plate could be made. What are the best methods to fabricate the new areas of the fascia and refinish the cut ends? Also the frame behind the face plate requires modification as well.
Double DIN by massanu
Double DIN by Rodrofilo
Double DIN by ascuiles
Double DIN by Dogdave4130
Double DIN by mtbikersd
Double DIN by UrbanE
Double DIN by ardenian
The parts I have obtained to make my double din face plate and button relocation modifications with.
No original parts to my car will be harmed in this exercise.
All the switches on the existing radio bezel will be relocated to the cup holder bezel. The ash tray/ coin holder, passenger air bag light and the power outlet/cigarette lighter will stay where they are. The existing single din radio pocket will be enlarged to accept a double din radio.
Double DIN by massanu
Double DIN by Rodrofilo
Double DIN by ascuiles
Double DIN by Dogdave4130
Double DIN by mtbikersd
Double DIN by UrbanE
Double DIN by ardenian
The parts I have obtained to make my double din face plate and button relocation modifications with.
No original parts to my car will be harmed in this exercise.
All the switches on the existing radio bezel will be relocated to the cup holder bezel. The ash tray/ coin holder, passenger air bag light and the power outlet/cigarette lighter will stay where they are. The existing single din radio pocket will be enlarged to accept a double din radio.
Last edited by onehundred80; 11-17-2017 at 03:57 PM.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Dave,
Here is what I've done in the past when building DD kits for people. I start with a complete center console, the whole 9-yards (~8.25m) and assemble everything so the gaps are all the same as they would be in the car. This is tricky since it's not actually bolted to a metal trans tunnel but it's doable. Then take some winter sealing window shrink wrap and wrap everything nice and tight. Take a hair dryer and hit it to tighten up the corners and make it all so it's nice and smooth. Then take some release fiberglass agent and coat it evenly. I don't remember which brand we had the best luck with but if you can't find one that doesn't interact with the window wrap, you can get away without it, you'll just have to clean up the back side of the mold you'll be making. Then cover the console with fiberglass mat. I used chopped up mat and glass stir sticks to get in the grooves. You're not trying to get in deep, just enough so you have the raised bump between the parts of the ashtray cover, cigar lighter trim and airbag light panel and the radio surround. Once that cures, carefully remove the fiberglass mold you just made and take all the silver parts and remove everything you can from the back of them. Then place them in the mold you just made and bond them together so you have the lower portion as once piece to graft the switch panel into. I can't really describe in words what you will need to do for that but you'll be doing a lot of trial and error to fit it all together and make it look like it belongs that way. The radio surround is pretty straight forward. Cut the switch group from the one you plan on using and graft the top of of the second radio surround to the part you removed. Leave the perimeter of the radio surround intact, only trimming about an 1/8" (~3mm) into it from the inside edge. Then after everything is glued, bonded and cleaned up, hit the entire console with some paint and install the radio of your choice.
Take care and I hope this helps you out a little. You've helped out many people on this forum so you deserve some as well.
Here is what I've done in the past when building DD kits for people. I start with a complete center console, the whole 9-yards (~8.25m) and assemble everything so the gaps are all the same as they would be in the car. This is tricky since it's not actually bolted to a metal trans tunnel but it's doable. Then take some winter sealing window shrink wrap and wrap everything nice and tight. Take a hair dryer and hit it to tighten up the corners and make it all so it's nice and smooth. Then take some release fiberglass agent and coat it evenly. I don't remember which brand we had the best luck with but if you can't find one that doesn't interact with the window wrap, you can get away without it, you'll just have to clean up the back side of the mold you'll be making. Then cover the console with fiberglass mat. I used chopped up mat and glass stir sticks to get in the grooves. You're not trying to get in deep, just enough so you have the raised bump between the parts of the ashtray cover, cigar lighter trim and airbag light panel and the radio surround. Once that cures, carefully remove the fiberglass mold you just made and take all the silver parts and remove everything you can from the back of them. Then place them in the mold you just made and bond them together so you have the lower portion as once piece to graft the switch panel into. I can't really describe in words what you will need to do for that but you'll be doing a lot of trial and error to fit it all together and make it look like it belongs that way. The radio surround is pretty straight forward. Cut the switch group from the one you plan on using and graft the top of of the second radio surround to the part you removed. Leave the perimeter of the radio surround intact, only trimming about an 1/8" (~3mm) into it from the inside edge. Then after everything is glued, bonded and cleaned up, hit the entire console with some paint and install the radio of your choice.
Take care and I hope this helps you out a little. You've helped out many people on this forum so you deserve some as well.
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Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
'Cept for people like Rudy, of course.....
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Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Dave,
Here is what I've done in the past when building DD kits for people. I start with a complete center console, the whole 9-yards (~8.25m) and assemble everything so the gaps are all the same as they would be in the car. This is tricky since it's not actually bolted to a metal trans tunnel but it's doable. Then take some winter sealing window shrink wrap and wrap everything nice and tight. Take a hair dryer and hit it to tighten up the corners and make it all so it's nice and smooth. Then take some release fiberglass agent and coat it evenly. I don't remember which brand we had the best luck with but if you can't find one that doesn't interact with the window wrap, you can get away without it, you'll just have to clean up the back side of the mold you'll be making. Then cover the console with fiberglass mat. I used chopped up mat and glass stir sticks to get in the grooves. You're not trying to get in deep, just enough so you have the raised bump between the parts of the ashtray cover, cigar lighter trim and airbag light panel and the radio surround. Once that cures, carefully remove the fiberglass mold you just made and take all the silver parts and remove everything you can from the back of them. Then place them in the mold you just made and bond them together so you have the lower portion as once piece to graft the switch panel into. I can't really describe in words what you will need to do for that but you'll be doing a lot of trial and error to fit it all together and make it look like it belongs that way. The radio surround is pretty straight forward. Cut the switch group from the one you plan on using and graft the top of of the second radio surround to the part you removed. Leave the perimeter of the radio surround intact, only trimming about an 1/8" (~3mm) into it from the inside edge. Then after everything is glued, bonded and cleaned up, hit the entire console with some paint and install the radio of your choice.
Take care and I hope this helps you out a little. You've helped out many people on this forum so you deserve some as well.
Here is what I've done in the past when building DD kits for people. I start with a complete center console, the whole 9-yards (~8.25m) and assemble everything so the gaps are all the same as they would be in the car. This is tricky since it's not actually bolted to a metal trans tunnel but it's doable. Then take some winter sealing window shrink wrap and wrap everything nice and tight. Take a hair dryer and hit it to tighten up the corners and make it all so it's nice and smooth. Then take some release fiberglass agent and coat it evenly. I don't remember which brand we had the best luck with but if you can't find one that doesn't interact with the window wrap, you can get away without it, you'll just have to clean up the back side of the mold you'll be making. Then cover the console with fiberglass mat. I used chopped up mat and glass stir sticks to get in the grooves. You're not trying to get in deep, just enough so you have the raised bump between the parts of the ashtray cover, cigar lighter trim and airbag light panel and the radio surround. Once that cures, carefully remove the fiberglass mold you just made and take all the silver parts and remove everything you can from the back of them. Then place them in the mold you just made and bond them together so you have the lower portion as once piece to graft the switch panel into. I can't really describe in words what you will need to do for that but you'll be doing a lot of trial and error to fit it all together and make it look like it belongs that way. The radio surround is pretty straight forward. Cut the switch group from the one you plan on using and graft the top of of the second radio surround to the part you removed. Leave the perimeter of the radio surround intact, only trimming about an 1/8" (~3mm) into it from the inside edge. Then after everything is glued, bonded and cleaned up, hit the entire console with some paint and install the radio of your choice.
Take care and I hope this helps you out a little. You've helped out many people on this forum so you deserve some as well.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Dave,
Here is what I've done in the past when building DD kits for people. I start with a complete center console, the whole 9-yards (~8.25m) and assemble everything so the gaps are all the same as they would be in the car. This is tricky since it's not actually bolted to a metal trans tunnel but it's doable. Then take some winter sealing window shrink wrap and wrap everything nice and tight. Take a hair dryer and hit it to tighten up the corners and make it all so it's nice and smooth. Then take some release fiberglass agent and coat it evenly. I don't remember which brand we had the best luck with but if you can't find one that doesn't interact with the window wrap, you can get away without it, you'll just have to clean up the back side of the mold you'll be making. Then cover the console with fiberglass mat. I used chopped up mat and glass stir sticks to get in the grooves. You're not trying to get in deep, just enough so you have the raised bump between the parts of the ashtray cover, cigar lighter trim and airbag light panel and the radio surround. Once that cures, carefully remove the fiberglass mold you just made and take all the silver parts and remove everything you can from the back of them. Then place them in the mold you just made and bond them together so you have the lower portion as once piece to graft the switch panel into. I can't really describe in words what you will need to do for that but you'll be doing a lot of trial and error to fit it all together and make it look like it belongs that way. The radio surround is pretty straight forward. Cut the switch group from the one you plan on using and graft the top of of the second radio surround to the part you removed. Leave the perimeter of the radio surround intact, only trimming about an 1/8" (~3mm) into it from the inside edge. Then after everything is glued, bonded and cleaned up, hit the entire console with some paint and install the radio of your choice.
Take care and I hope this helps you out a little. You've helped out many people on this forum so you deserve some as well.
Here is what I've done in the past when building DD kits for people. I start with a complete center console, the whole 9-yards (~8.25m) and assemble everything so the gaps are all the same as they would be in the car. This is tricky since it's not actually bolted to a metal trans tunnel but it's doable. Then take some winter sealing window shrink wrap and wrap everything nice and tight. Take a hair dryer and hit it to tighten up the corners and make it all so it's nice and smooth. Then take some release fiberglass agent and coat it evenly. I don't remember which brand we had the best luck with but if you can't find one that doesn't interact with the window wrap, you can get away without it, you'll just have to clean up the back side of the mold you'll be making. Then cover the console with fiberglass mat. I used chopped up mat and glass stir sticks to get in the grooves. You're not trying to get in deep, just enough so you have the raised bump between the parts of the ashtray cover, cigar lighter trim and airbag light panel and the radio surround. Once that cures, carefully remove the fiberglass mold you just made and take all the silver parts and remove everything you can from the back of them. Then place them in the mold you just made and bond them together so you have the lower portion as once piece to graft the switch panel into. I can't really describe in words what you will need to do for that but you'll be doing a lot of trial and error to fit it all together and make it look like it belongs that way. The radio surround is pretty straight forward. Cut the switch group from the one you plan on using and graft the top of of the second radio surround to the part you removed. Leave the perimeter of the radio surround intact, only trimming about an 1/8" (~3mm) into it from the inside edge. Then after everything is glued, bonded and cleaned up, hit the entire console with some paint and install the radio of your choice.
Take care and I hope this helps you out a little. You've helped out many people on this forum so you deserve some as well.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Out of curiosity and the want to have a double din for a future reverse backup camera upgrade, how much would a DDin center console like the silver one be if someone made a few from a mold? I am not particularly great at this type of stuff.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
What
I want is a picture showing the buttons where the cup holder is now.
Sorry for the obvious confusion that I caused.
Other positions look good but result in a lot of work and in some cases the loss or repositioning of the ash tray, passenger air bag light and cigarette lighter.
In place of the cup holder all that is list is the cup holder itself or the little cubby replacement.
In this position a part of the bezel carrying the seven switches can be mounted I think, possibly with the addition of a shim to move the switches lower.
I was also wondering if the switches could be mounted in a tray that sat proud of the existing trim in that area, this tray using the slot for the cup holder which will be extended forward. This way the button tray could be lifted out just like the little cubby can rather than pulling the whole console apart.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Np, I have done that many times.
I have thought about either moving 4 of the switches and lay them on the flat bare spot below the center vents or putting digital display for extra gauges, but moving moving the 12v outlet would not bother me with the manual transmission.
Ok you want to keep the switches all together and sitting where cup holder is.
If a tray, any thoughts of converting the ash try into a pull out switch tray???
For the switches that are not used much and switches that are used more beside the passenger airbag light.
I need to figure out how to get pics to load better, since app stopped working.
Will see if I have the pic where the bank of switches is where the cup holder is at.
I have thought about either moving 4 of the switches and lay them on the flat bare spot below the center vents or putting digital display for extra gauges, but moving moving the 12v outlet would not bother me with the manual transmission.
Ok you want to keep the switches all together and sitting where cup holder is.
If a tray, any thoughts of converting the ash try into a pull out switch tray???
For the switches that are not used much and switches that are used more beside the passenger airbag light.
I need to figure out how to get pics to load better, since app stopped working.
Will see if I have the pic where the bank of switches is where the cup holder is at.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Np, I have done that many times.
I have thought about either moving 4 of the switches and lay them on the flat bare spot below the center vents or putting digital display for extra gauges, but moving moving the 12v outlet would not bother me with the manual transmission.
Ok you want to keep the switches all together and sitting where cup holder is.
If a tray, any thoughts of converting the ash try into a pull out switch tray???
For the switches that are not used much and switches that are used more beside the passenger airbag light.
I need to figure out how to get pics to load better, since app stopped working.
Will see if I have the pic where the bank of switches is where the cup holder is at.
I have thought about either moving 4 of the switches and lay them on the flat bare spot below the center vents or putting digital display for extra gauges, but moving moving the 12v outlet would not bother me with the manual transmission.
Ok you want to keep the switches all together and sitting where cup holder is.
If a tray, any thoughts of converting the ash try into a pull out switch tray???
For the switches that are not used much and switches that are used more beside the passenger airbag light.
I need to figure out how to get pics to load better, since app stopped working.
Will see if I have the pic where the bank of switches is where the cup holder is at.
The easiest spot is the cup holder area, I do not rest my arm there and if I did the depth of the switches should keep them out of (h)arms way.
The more work done the more chance of a screw up, this way only two parts are modified. I am modifying parts I purchased not my cars parts. I am waiting for the cup holder trim only now. An expensive way to do it but safer. I may make two parts of each, just in case I screw one up.
After the switch mod is done I will buy a DD nav unit, I am thinking of a Kenwood unit.
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Thank you, photos #1 and #2 are what I have in mind. I was thinking of making it a tray so that the buttons could be accessed just by pulling the tray up. The tray being made from the existing area if the radio bezel that the switches occupy now. The tray would stand proud of the cup holder trim by about 5/16".
Re: Tips required to make a double din face plate
Glad I could help, will see if I can find any more angles.
Keep me posted on your progress.
What are you planning with the hazard light switch?
So, making a tray where cup holder goes that pulls up and is the switch panel?
Would a triangular panel work there also, that rolls, one side smooth and can leave facing up, roll one way and the switches rotate up, the 3rd side is for wiring.
Make any sense to you?
Have a vivid pic in my head and mounting.
Keep me posted on your progress.
What are you planning with the hazard light switch?
So, making a tray where cup holder goes that pulls up and is the switch panel?
Would a triangular panel work there also, that rolls, one side smooth and can leave facing up, roll one way and the switches rotate up, the 3rd side is for wiring.
Make any sense to you?
Have a vivid pic in my head and mounting.