Hi 180,
I think you're almost there. You've shown that your switch is good. I'm assuming you have the connector off of the switch at the moment. Here are some other suggestions. I think they go the same direction as Pizzaguy was pointing but might be easier to perform. To show you have a good ground, measurement the resistance from the connector pin 4 to chassis ground (any metal part, like the bolts holding down the SLA). It should read less than 1 ohm (probably much less, but that depends on how good your meter is). If that's good, your wire from pin 4 is good, and you have a good ground. It looks like you measured the voltage at pin 49 of the BCM. To check the wire going from BCM pin 49 to the door lock switch pin 8, measure the voltage from the connector pin 8 to either the connector pin 4, or your chassis ground. This should read 12V. If that's good, then the wire between the BCM and the switch is good. If both those measurement are good, you could jumper connector pins 8 and 4 to see if the door locks close. (Sometimes things look good at the low voltages and currents the DMM uses, but at higher currents things fail.) Does your fob open and close the doors? Measure the voltage at BCM pin 78 while opening and closing the doors with the fob. That measurement should give the same results as opening and closing using the switch. With the above set of measurements, I think you'll of isolated the issue to either the BCM or the CLP, assuming all of the wiring checks out. I've had some issues with 2 of my CLP's in the past where the pins on the board that mate to the harness connector corroded away (probably water that I didn't notice until the clp failed). Fortunately, there are extra unused pins on the CLP board, so I was able to move them over and get the CLP working. I've also replaced the vacuum pump motor on one of them.
Good Luck, sincerely
Jerry

 

Thanks for the tips. I shall try them and get back with the results.
I could almost swear to the fact that the CLP/SSM has not seen any water, I resealed the SRT6 spoiler attachments points and the spoiler attachment panel. The spoiler attachment panel sealing from the factory was very poorly designed and implemented. No moisture has been seen in the trunk. I do have a spare one if needed though.
To get at the rear of the switches I have to remove the radio.
The fobs work perfectly, it is just this switch that does not work on the car except for the TPMS system of course.
I have installed a spare BCM and that acts exactly the same. I will reinstall the original BCM when I can remember how I did it last time, getting forgetful in my old age.
I have three spare sets of switches.
I just hate to be beaten by a few pieces of wires and switches.
Thanks again.

 

I have to take out the radio face plate to get to the switch properly, I will replace the switch and it’s mounting plate as well. I have three spares of each.
I cannot check the ground wire as you mention as there are so many wires in a bundle under the radio. I checked as you said but nothing happened, it read O/Load, I will not reassemble it all until the problem is solved. That’s easy for me to say now. I may put back the original BCM if I can remember how, I purchased a spare when I noticed this problem, put it in and left it there as it worked OK. Now I have forgot how I did it.
Thanks for your help, let’s hope I can make use of it.

 

I have checked the ground as you said and got .75 Ohm..
Connector pin 8 to ground = 8.5 Volts, but at the BCM it measures 12 volts. This means different voltages at the two ends of the same wire.
Voltages at pin 78 are the 12 volts when opening and losing with the fob. But nothing happens when using the switch.
I am truly confused.
Thanks for the help.

 

Pin 78 Do you mean pin 8?

From what I am reading, you have 12 volts at the BCM pin 49 and 8.5 volts at the switch pin 8.
Do I have that right?

I'd bet if you press "UNLOCK" that the voltage at pin 8 will go to Zero like is should, and at pin 49 it won't drop, it will stay at 12.
This would indicate the wire itself is partly open, that is, resistive. This would lead me to question the crimp on the wire BCM pin 49 or the crimp on the wire at pin 8 of the switch.

 

Hi 180,
I currently happen to have my console switch out. I measured the resistance of my switch between pins 4 and 8, and got 200 ohms and 0 ohms - same as your measurements. I measured the resistance from console switch group (csg) connector pin 4 to ground, and got less than 1 ohms. I measured the voltage between csg connector pin 8 to ground, and got 12.34V, no key in the ignition. I tried shorting the two pins together, but the door locks didn't close. I then put the connector back onto my csg switch, and everything worked as it is suppose to without the key in the ignition. I'm not sure why the jumpering didn't work, but maybe the BCM is looking for the hazard switch connection as well? An interesting aside is that I had the drivers side door open, and door lock button stayed opened during the test while all the other locks opened and closed (At this point I thought I had another problem..) Fortunately, when I closed the drivers door, both sides worked normally. Interesting feature.
-Jerry


Probing the console switch group connector, pin 4 should go to ground. Pin 8 should read 12V even without the key in the ignition.

 

Shorting them unlocks the doors. Applying 200 ohms between them locks the doors.

 

"…………………

 

Jerry at least we get similar figures, I think pizzaguy is on to something with the nad connections between the wire and the pins. I study that tomorrow. Thanks again .

 

I guess maybe I got the open and close resistance values mixed up. When I tested shorting pins 4 to 8, everything was open so nothing would happen if a short is open. Tomorrow I'll try using a 200ohm resistor to jump pins 4 and 8 and see if the locks close.
-Jerry

 

WHy not use the FOB to lock the doors, the short the pins to unlock? Not that you can't use a 200 ohm resistor for "lock".............

 

I am going to start the tests again and carefully log the readings etc.using the tips provided by pizza man and red_2005.
Hopefully this will make my scribbled notes clear to me, as at the moment I am confusing myself.
After all this effort I can only say for sure that the 200 Ohm reading is correct.
The shocking truth is that I am not the brightest bulb on the Xmas tree, sparky stuff is not my thing. My reply to an electrical question is “Watt?”.

 

Hi 180,
Okay, I tried some more permutations with and without the 200 ohm resistor. First, with the drivers door closed and using the fob to lock everything, I tried shorting pins 4 and 8 - nothing happened. My car is set up such that hitting the fob once unlocks the drivers door only (hit it again to open the passenger door lock) - so I hit the fob once, drivers door and center console lock opened, passenger side door stayed locked. Shorting pins 4 and 8 together, passenger door lock opens. With all the locks in the open position, using the 200 ohm resistor to short pins 4 and 8 together locks the drivers door and passengers door, but keeps the center console lock opened. (I didn't check the glove box, trunk or gas panel locks so I don't know what they were doing.) One difference between using the fob and shorting the pins is that with the fob, the hazard lights flash once, while shorting the pins, no flash. Some details - to touch pin 8, I had to insert a thin wire into the socket, my probe tip wasn't sharp enough to touch the contact otherwise.
-Jerry

 

I replaced my original BCM with a spare, that was easily done.
Now I want to get at the BCM outside of the black box it normally sits in, the trouble is I cannot remember how I got the original out, I swapped them when I first had trouble, hoping that was the cause
Can anyone give me a hint please?

 

I thought it just lifted out, like the RCM?

 

I think it slides forward and the front of it rises at the same time.
Do the sockets have to come off first though?
Thanks for the reply.

 

I have NEVER tried ot yank the BCM out.

 

I have tested the wires, switches and circuit of the console group switch. I cannot get the doors to lock or lock using the console switch. I have tried spare switches and the BCM, no difference anywhere.
Not wishing to dig into the pump end of the wires I have to admit defeat.
Sincere thanks for all those that contributed with answers to my questions, there must be a solution somewhere.
The main body for the switches is not a simple item and it is possible the answer lies in it. I have spares for this but removing the plugs from it is a task I just cannot get myself to do.
Thanks again.

 

Removing the plug connectors isn't that bad on the switch side. BCM side is a little more difficult.
Use a small pick or screwdriver to depress the silver tab and they slide right out.
On the CLP side you can take apart the shell and then use the same procedure to inspect the connections for any corrosion from water. I haven't tried this yet on the CLP, but but I have been able to save some water damaged connections this way with some salt and vinegar then re-tin.
For the main switch body there are 6 screws and the cover just comes off to show the circuit board. Easy to visually inspect for any burnt traces or get a meter on them at that point.
Let me get some pics for you if you are interested.
I have the same issue with my spoiler switch so maybe we can solve this together?

 

Hi 180,
I guess I missed this post. Yes, I agree with Pizzaguy, you likely have a problem with the wire feeding pin 8 - it should be at battery voltage. Also, 0.75 ohms seems high for ground, but that could be your meter. Have you connected your leads together to see what the resistance of just the leads are? If that's high then okay, but if thats low, like less than 0.1 ohms (hopefully, more like 0.01ohms). I don't know if you would feel comfortable doing this, but you can short pin 49 on the BCM to ground or wire your door switch directly to pin 49 (i.e., connect a wire from pin 49 to pin 8 of the door switch, and connect pin 4 of the door switch to ground. Now you have bypassed the wiring, and hopefully the door switch will work normally). If you connect pin 49 to ground, I would think you'll get my results, and confirm it's the wire between pin 49 and pin 8 that's your issue.
Good Luck,
-Jerry