When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Happy Easter to those who celebrate it. I would like to see what your guys thoughts on this issue I'm currently having. I went on vacation for 2 weeks and had a friend start it up every few days or so. However, upon returning, my car no longer start, but it does crank (ticking sound). So I went ahead and jumped it externally and it fired up. I let it idle for 20 min, then tried starting it again without the jumper and it would not start.
I then went and purchased a new battery. Law and behold, same results. With the new battery measuring at 14.6v, I jumped it and it started. I let it idle for 20min to let it charge up, turned the car off then tried firing it again and it did start, but it seemed really weak to crank. I called it a day thinking it was fixed. Today, I tried to start it again, same thing, cranks but doesn't start. I checked for any parasitic drain and I'm getting the correct amps .01-.04 . So parasitic drain doesn't seem to be the issue. What's strange is that, as soon as I put my key in the ignition, the horns blare so I have to disconnect it. I have the alarm siren deleted ever since I got the car so I can cross that out. I cleaned out the terminals on the battery. The negative cable on the battery looks like it has seen better days, but don't know if that could be the issue.
Something tells me either my alternator is shot and not charging my battery or supplying the extra 2 volts or I have a bad ground cable. I have a new negative cable coming in so hopefully that will fix this, but I'm not going to hold my breath.
Funny that all the thing's Ive read the past few days were post from you from long time! Glad you're still doing this for the community.
I am seeing 14.6 volts when the engine is running so that seems to be good. I really do think it's the negative cable causing this issue, but I do have a new one coming in soon. I will update you on that. What's strange is that the clasp spins around the ground terminal even when it's tighten up. When you say "block to chassis jumper", what are you referring to? I apologize I am not very verse.
For the link you sent, I' have that mod and thankful for that haha. I appreciate you.
1) What's strange is that the clasp spins around the ground terminal even when it's tighten up.
2) When you say "block to chassis jumper", what are you referring to? I apologize I am not very verse.
For the link you sent, I' have that mod and thankful for that haha. I appreciate you.
1) That means the ground cable is not really "at ground", a loose cable connection is a non-connection.
2) There is a jumper from the engine block to chassis, behind the power steering pump. Jame's mod "backs that up" by providing a direct battery-to-block connection as in most every other car on the road before about 2000 or so.
From factory, starter current and alternator current took the round-about way: Battery negative post thru ground cable, to chassis, thru chassis to the jumper behind the power steering pump, thru the block, thru the starter or alternator then up the positive cable to the battery. Stupid. WIth the mod, there is a low-resistance path from negative post to block, thru alternator/starter and back to the battery positive post.
In any event: Even with James' mod, you still want all connections TIGHT and CLEAN. Emphasis on ALL.
Funny that all the thing's Ive read the past few days were post from you from long time! Glad you're still doing this for the community.
I am seeing 14.6 volts when the engine is running so that seems to be good. I really do think it's the negative cable causing this issue, but I do have a new one coming in soon. I will update you on that. What's strange is that the clasp spins around the ground terminal even when it's tighten up. When you say "block to chassis jumper", what are you referring to? I apologize I am not very verse.
For the link you sent, I' have that mod and thankful for that haha. I appreciate you.
Based on what you have said, are you referring to the clasp on the Neg battery terminal? If this is the case there is your bad connection (meaning a loose cable clamp on the Neg battery terminal). Just to be sure, is the ground mod you put in connected to a loose Neg clamp? Again, there is your problem. This is based on what you said and replied, so I am not sure what you mean. If you can, post a picture what your meaning about the clasp spinning around, thanks.
Based on what you have said, are you referring to the clasp on the Neg battery terminal?
.
I took it to mean the stud on the chassis was loose, making the ground connection really bad. But he has the redundant ground fix that James recommended and invented - so you'd think he'd be almost OK.
IF he meant on the BATTERY post, that would mean the redundant ground could not even to it's job - and would explain it all. I did not read it that way, but it would explain things rather easily.
I really do think it's the negative cable causing this issue,
What's strange is that the clasp spins around the ground terminal even when it's tighten up.
This is likely to be the issue right here
Your post clamps MUST be tight enough that you CAN NOT turn them with your hand when fully tightened
I experienced this once in my 16 years here
Yes, this is correct. I feel stupid now thinking about it and hopefully once the replacement comes in it should resolve my issue. At least I will learn an important lesson! Thank you! I will update you on this.
I agree. Now thinking about it I feel pretty stupid. I know it should be tight, but the clasp isn't clasping anymore even though it looks like it's making contact. I will send an update and hopefully I can get back on the road once I receive my replacement OEM from eBay. I learn new things everyday thank you to y'all!
I agree. Now thinking about it I feel pretty stupid.
No need to feel that way.....I hope a new clamp will tighten securely for you
Many years ago on my Coupe, I put 2 small pieces of metal wire cut from a paperclip between my clamp and the post (opposite sides of the post) to fill the tiny bit of slack I had and it tightened securely and I never had an issue after that
If you haven't done it already, don't forget about the other ground strap from the transmission to the frame. Located behind the steering stabilizer.
Sorry about the caption. It's from a write up I did about my car.
Hi All, Finally got the replacement OEM negative cable. The car is happy now. I can't thank you guys enough for the suggestion. I hope you all have a great weekend!
Well, I thought that fixed it. Went out this morning to go on an errand, and when I attempt to start it, all I hear is ticking sound. I had to jump it again to get it to start. I drove it yesterday without the need to jump it, drove it to multiple places.No codes being thrown after running a scanner. Seems like the only way I can get it to start is by jumping it. Got spare RCM and same issue.
Well, I thought that fixed it. Went out this morning to go on an errand, and when I attempt to start it, all I hear is ticking sound. I had to jump it again to get it to start.
So you get a ticking sound but when you put a booster battery on it with jumper cables, it starts right up? That's the easiest thing in the world to diagnose: Your battery has insuffienct capacity to run the starter OR your battery cables/clamps are bad/loose or the jumper from block to chassis is bad.
A voltmeter can show you what is going on. But that means you are using the meter under the hood when a helper turns the key to "start". By looking at voltages at the battery terminals, you can tell if its the battery and/or posts/clamps at the battery - or if it is elsewhere. When the key is turned to 'start', if battery voltage falls, it's the battery. If the battery voltage stays high, it's the cables to the starter, the block to chassis jumper, etc.
Now, one thing it CAN be is that its coincidental that putting the booster on started it - you may have a bad pulse module, starter or starter interlock switch somewhere.
IT's impossible to tell remotely all we can go on is what you type.
I apologize for not giving you enough information. I will try my best to provide it as best as I can.
I went out and did a voltage test while the car is not running and I'm getting 10.6v which indicates a dead cell. I jumped it and did another test, and I'm getting 14-15v which is where we want it. I let it run for 20min then shut it off, then tested the voltage and I'm getting 12v+. Which means that the alternator is doing its job bringing it back to 12v. I then started it again knowing that it has good voltage and the car started without having to jump it. It explains why I was able to drive it around multiple times yesterday since the battery has not drained enough.
Now the fun part is trying to find what's causing it to drain that much (mind you, it's a 1 week old battery). I'm going to let it sit for a 1hr and test the voltage again. I do have a pedal commander and got curious and when checking for live data, noticed that the throttle position is at 6% even when the device is powered off. Not sure if that's draining it, but I will remove it as a safety.
Click here and download V3 of "Finding Battery Drain". I wrote it to address the specific anomalies of the Crossfire and SLK320.
A VERY common issue is the alarm siren, when the batteries in it die, the leaking of fluid causes awful drain on the car's battery.
Alternator issue or something else?
Based on what you have said, are you referring to the clasp on the Neg battery terminal? If this is the case there is your bad connection (meaning a loose cable clamp on the Neg battery terminal). Just to be sure, is the ground mod you put in connected to a loose Neg clamp? Again, there is your problem. This is based on what you said and replied, so I am not sure what you mean. If you can, post a picture what your meaning about the clasp spinning around, thanks. 
Pizza (Mark) beat me to it... LOL 
