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Well looks like Father time, I'm sure, has taken its toll on the OEM speakers.. I noticed on my just purchased 2008 Coupe Limited, the door tweeters are out and atleast one of the two rear subs are out.. Are replacement difficult to find and any one know the impedances? I might be taking the door panel off to make it easier to apply the door window tint.. I should get some replacement speakers ready.
Sapphire Breeze
Before you start pulling the door panel off, you should remove the negative battery cable, to avoid any issues with the SRS bag located in each door. Before you purchase any replacement door speakers or base speakers, they should be measured, by diameter/depth etc. for a perfect fit. Try using the search function on the upper right front page for speaker replacements.
Be cautious and take your time.... Dennis
DTMenace
Do some searches here. Many of us have replace the tweeters and replaced the foam surrounds on the subs. It has brought the sound system beck to life for little cost.
Do some searches here. Many of us have replace the tweeters and replaced the foam surrounds on the subs. It has brought the sound system beck to life for little cost.
Yes, good advice, I pulled the rear subs out and tested them and tested the amp ch outputs..i had to fix a loose wire post one one, but are good, and so ordered surrounds for them as the are shot..and ordered a used set of OEM tweeters which tweeters and surrounds might be here tomorrow, so I'm be pulling the door panels to look over the mid's surrounds, , and I'll install the tweeters, 270 ohm caps when the arrive, and re-tint the two windows while the panels are out of the way..last owner installed 20%..geeze
Yes, good advice, I pulled the rear subs out and tested them and tested the amp ch outputs..i had to fix a loose wire post one one, but are good, and so ordered surrounds for them as the are shot..and ordered a used set of OEM tweeters which tweeters and surrounds might be here tomorrow, so I'm be pulling the door panels to look over the mid's surrounds, , and I'll install the tweeters, 270 ohm caps when the arrive, and re-tint the two windows while the panels are out of the way..last owner installed 20%..geeze
I didn't add the 270 ohm caps. Thought I would see how it goes first. Was very happy with the sound and felt no need to add them.
Do some searches here. Many of us have replace the tweeters and replaced the foam surrounds on the subs. It has brought the sound system beck to life for little cost.
I noticed the tweeter you showed link to above is a 6 ohm tweeter, the originals are reading 3.25 ohms.. do you have any comparsion experience with them? Do they fit the OEM mounting location without mods? Being 6 ohm might also cause them to be less efficient
I did fix the rear subs, tested and remounted them.. much better bass in the cab now... My tweeters tested good, but neither is working..I was worried the floor amp had bad tweeter outs, but I read that they are (wiring) paralleled to the door speakers, and those were good (didnt have to repair the surrounds either) but I'm wondering if the connections are corroded and where the Tweeters "tap" into the Mid bass door speaker circuits as the wiring from the tweeter appears to migrate from an independent path (until it disappears in a neatly bound group of wiring.. In the doors or under the passenger floor(?)
I prefer to use the OEM head and amp, but dang, I had to unplug the other speakers in order to hear if the tweeters were working... They are, but don't think they could be heard.
Ok, the OEM tweeters are just over 3 ohm, but I don't know the sensitivity spec of them. Had as anyone found a better replacement tweeter only? Or have you replace the door speaker with another "componet" set with better sound?
The factory tweeters in mine tested good but were so muted in output that they literally could not be heard at all when the other speakers were working. I suspect the originals might be ferro-fluid filled and this may have gone hard over time - who knows? I don't know why else they would have continuity but no effective output. The Daytons need to have some weatherstripping applied to their perimeter so the sit snug in the factory tweeter mounting holes.
The Daytons work perfectly well, sound good and they have plenty of output. I generally run the treble on zero, sometimes +1 on a CD that needs it. With the subs fixed the bass is usually on zero or -1, -2, -3 depending on the CD.
The factory tweeters in mine tested good but were so muted in output that they literally could not be heard at all when the other speakers were working. I suspect the originals might be ferro-fluid filled and this may have gone hard over time - who knows? I don't know why else they would have continuity but no effective output. The Daytons need to have some weatherstripping applied to their perimeter so the sit snug in the factory tweeter mounting holes.
The Daytons work perfectly well, sound good and they have plenty of output. I generally run the treble on zero, sometimes +1 on a CD that needs it. With the subs fixed the bass is usually on zero or -1, -2, -3 depending on the CD.
Do you know the impedance and sensitivity your new one's are?
Do some searches here. Many of us have replace the tweeters and replaced the foam surrounds on the subs. It has brought the sound system beck to life for little cost.
The factory tweeters in mine tested good but were so muted in output that they literally could not be heard at all when the other speakers were working. I suspect the originals might be ferro-fluid filled and this may have gone hard over time - who knows? I don't know why else they would have continuity but no effective output. The Daytons need to have some weatherstripping applied to their perimeter so the sit snug in the factory tweeter mounting holes.
The Daytons work perfectly well, sound good and they have plenty of output. I generally run the treble on zero, sometimes +1 on a CD that needs it. With the subs fixed the bass is usually on zero or -1, -2, -3 depending on the CD.
With the Sub surrounds repaired and new JL C1 Tweeter in place, I cut a layer of 3/8' of open cell foam and put in front of the 6 ohm tweeters as I felt like they were just a little too bright.. I'm now running about Flat on bass and treble setting both. I suspect your Dayton choice would have been another good replacement costing half as much as the JL C1, 3/4"
The factory tweeters in mine tested good but were so muted in output that they literally could not be heard at all when the other speakers were working. I suspect the originals might be ferro-fluid filled and this may have gone hard over time - who knows? I don't know why else they would have continuity but no effective output. The Daytons need to have some weatherstripping applied to their perimeter so the sit snug in the factory tweeter mounting holes.
The Daytons work perfectly well, sound good and they have plenty of output. I generally run the treble on zero, sometimes +1 on a CD that needs it. With the subs fixed the bass is usually on zero or -1, -2, -3 depending on the CD.
With the Sub surrounds repaired, 200uf caps on the door woofers, and new JL C1 Tweeter in place, (I cut a layer of 3/8' of open cell foam and put in front of the 6 ohm tweeters as I felt like they were just a little too bright).. I'm now running about Flat on bass and treble setting both. I suspect your Dayton choice would have been another good replacement costing half as much as the JL C1, 3/4"
Audio speakers
