Originally Posted by THETESTER

And as I said previously, things have moved on since then. Kenwood now supply a direct fit loom for the Xfire to the new Kenwood head unit. I had to change the large amount of nothing. Plug it in and that was it.

Originally Posted by THETESTER

For clarity the power loom required to connect a Kenwood head unit to our infinity ISO connector is part number:-
This part is available from Kenwood's parts department in the UK for $25 plus shipping, so I would ask Kenwood USA/Canada if they can source the part for you to reduce the shipping costs.

Originally Posted by massgold

The aftermarket radio you installed can you play Sirius-Xmas radio. Looking for an aftermarket radio that will play satellite radio
patrick

Originally Posted by DcFire

Yes sir where do you attach that promo code from Crutchfield I'm about to go put myself in aftermarket stereo into and I got all the stuff ordered it would help me out please and thank you

Originally Posted by peter_k

OK,

So once in a while I get an email asking me to clarify the installation...

In order to try to help everyone, here is my response to my latest email....

It's been a while since I've done any wiring on the car, but if I jog my memory there's a couple of things you need to know...

(My original post is here: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ead.php?t=9057)


There is a wiring diagram there in one of my posts...

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...0&d=1136880958


If you look at the diagram, all of the wiring is there...
On the Radio Harness that plugs into the factory radio:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...2&d=1194832848

Brown: pin 8, is ground
Blue/dark green stripe: pin 5, turns on your amplifier as well as the amplified antenna
Red/dark green stripe: pin 4, is constant power
Pink/yellow stripe/dark green dots?: pin 7, is switched power aka accessory
Dark Green/White Stripe: pin 3 AT AMP, is for speed sense if you're installing a NAV unit


Here is where you have two options:

1) connect the regular speaker outputs (fronts probably best) from your new deck to the speaker inputs in the dash

2) Go into the passenger footwell, flip the carpet back, remove the styrofoam (just lifts out), unbolt the metal plate on the floor (this has the factory amp bolted to it..) and then solder on RCA ends to the speaker input wires...


If you go with option1, the new stereo will sound pretty much like the old one... marginally better, and no sub control...

If you go with option 2, it will sound much better and give the option of allowing subwoofer control....I'll try to explain as much as I can remember and from the diagram...

Once you have the amp vilisible, you will see the harnesses that go to it...

Locate the one with "twisted pairs" of wires with the following colours:

Blue and Blue/Brown stripe
Yellow and Yellow/Violet stripe

There will be two pairs of each of these...


Next, unwrap the tape and follow the wires down the harness a little bit... On my car the wires were joined about 6 inches from the amp plug.

When you find this splice point, this is where you can cut the wires, and where you will attach your RCA ends...

If you are good with solder, Purchase some quality (4 total) RCA Female ends at your local stereo shop to solder on here, and buy two RCA cables to run from here to the back of your new deck (6 foot should be long enough, but 10 never hurts) ....

If you are not solder savvy, purchase a 20 foot RCA cable and cut it in the middle...This will also save you a couple of bucks...


NEXT:
Now that you have located and cut these wire pairs, you will begin with soldering...

Each Blue and Blue/Brown stripe pair and each Yellow and Yellow/Violet stripe pair represents one speaker. Which speaker or subwoofer, ??? you will figure that out after you solder on your RCA's, so don't worry about that...

Yellow is positive (the center pin on the RCA) and Yellow/Violet is negative (outer ring on RCA)

Blue is positive (the center pin on the RCA) and Blue/Brown is negative (outer ring on RCA)

Once you have all of these hooked up, tape up the unused / cut wires on the "deck side" , and plug your new deck in.


Next: guess and test method..

Hook up the newly soldered RCA's to your new deck ONE AT A TIME...With the deck on and playing some music...

This way you will be able to hook up the correct RCA's to the deck for the left front, right front, and non-fading/sub outputs..


And that's all there is to it....


If your new deck has High-pass and low-pass filters, you can play with these to acheive the sound you like...

50Hz (up to say 100Hz) for High pass should be enough "bass kill" to allow you to turn up the volume more...

Low-pass will depend on the music you listen to... If you listen to classical, jazz, etc. then 80Hz to 100Hz should work...
If you listen to rap , r&b, soul, blues,etc... you will probably want the low-pass between 50Hz to 80Hz so you get the smooth deeper low bass more pronounced...



Hope that helps...Merry Christmas and Happy holidays....