Hello everyone, my car is having an electrical problem, and no one is able to find the problem (even the dealer) There is a power shortage that is what I know. where? that i dont know. 3 alternators have been blown out, 2 weeks max each one lasted. a 50 amp fuse below out while I was driving and shut down the car in the middle of the road. now it's not turning on. there is power but no cranking. I changed the alternator me because it got broken into. can anyone guide me into finding the source of the problem? I will be working on it myself. I also would appreciate if someone sells me their top because mine ripped (will not buy until the car is running). I'd also be glad to chat over a car to explain the situation better. Thank you.

Pics of the car (I fixed the top and replaced the window)

 

What 50 amp fuse blew? YOu've got to tell us what fuse is blowing, then we just look at what the fuse feeds to see what our issue is.
Also, the car looks awfully rough, if it sat a long time, it may be that rodents have chewed the insulation off a heavy cable (like the cable from battery to starter to alternator) and it's contacting ground - that would be kinda rough on an alternator.

 

The yellow fuse below out. The car was parked in open ground during the winter and water got thru it. There is power when the ignition is turned ON but no clutching or engine running.

 

That fuse belongs to the ABS pulse module. I would look into those circuits for what draws the highest current. Test the high current wires for continuity. The modulator pump is actually where I would start. Does it blow when you hit the brakes only?

 

That fuse being blown won't stop the car from starting, but I'd not drive the car without that being fixed. As you have already been told, that is the Brake Controller Fuse.

If the car is powering up but not engaging the starter, which is what I get from your posts, try this:

Turn key to START, if starter wont engage, release key to "ON".
Wait 30-45 seconds - does the engine cooling fan warp up to high speed? If so, your Fan Module IS powered up but the ECU is not talking to it, probably cause the ECU is not powered up. This is usually a failure with the 'Engine Control Relay" output on the RCM. VERY common failure in our cars.

If the fan does not warp up to high speed, I'd have a lot more questions. Given the car has sat, and with known water intrusion, this one may be harder to fix than most - most of our failures are due to module or part failure. WIth water damage (and possible rodent damage), this may get complicated.

 

Hi Mostafa,
This may not be the source of your problems, but it might prevent future issues once you solve your main one. Asap you should look in trunk, pull up the bottom carpet, and the Styrofoam corner piece (passenger side) that surrounds the central locking pump and security module (CLP/SM) and make sure it's not sitting in a tub of water. The drain hole back there tends to get clogged, and the water will corrode the CLP module and its wires. If the CLP is wet, it may already be too late, but dry it off and the connectors. Also, check the carpet in the passenger's foot well - is it wet? If so, you should check that the transmission control module (TCM) isn't water logged. It's located under the carpet where the passenger's feet rest - pull the carpet up starting at the firewall and towards the back of the car, unbolt 3 10mm plastic nuts, pull the metal plate towards you to reveal the TCM, and the stereo amplifier. Check for water and corrosion, dry off the water (wipe or blow off).
Good Luck,
-Jerry

 

well the fan module has not Been working since October ish, and the fan is directly connected to the battery. I will try that.

 

Oh boy, this crossfire sounds like a huge project car. Deff needs a lot of TLC, time, and patience thats for sure... Good luck, keep plugging away at each issue. It could be very confusing with multiple issues that can easily get mixed up. Sooooo, patience, OK? I would love to see the car brought back to life and on the road near 100% or more.


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I appreciate it, knowledge and guidance are my way there. Now I have RCM with me to check tonight. Below is a picture of the previous blown fuse.

 

Photo of the RCM

 

no it below when I was driving and it just went off

 

As the other members have mentioned, you should check the areas they suggested for water and water damag and Fix anything you find in those areas first. If those areas do not show water damage or need attention. Then move on to testing that circuit that blew the fuse. Disconnect both terminals of the battery before you start probing for continuity. Look for heat damage in the wiring harness in the engine compartment that may have melted wire coverings, or any rodent damage that would cause two or more wires to make contact. If you find any melting, or chewing, seperate the copper from each circuit, wrap with tape and keep probing until you identify each circuit has continuity from contact to contact or termination to termination. If you find rodent damage then make a repair for each wire affected. You will need to unplug the ABS unit and the wire at the fuse block, As that plug will be the last contact before the electronics. Start at the fuse and work the wire to its next terminal in the ABS plug. Test it for continuity from the fuse to the plug. You must be careful. There are a few possibilities. One, another current carrying circuit has somehow joined or shorted with that circuit causing a circuit with over 50 Amps. This is why you disconnect the battery terminals. Two, that circuit carrying current that blew the fuse, has shorted out with a ground. 50 Amps DC is not to be trifled with. It can be dangerous. I cannot stress enough to be careful while testing. Use a proper meter and make sure no part of your body is touching a ground when you grab a wire. Test before you touch is the rule with DC. I will check out the engine wiring on my parts car for areas prone to heat and or damage on Monday and maybe have some things for you to check. If you have not already found the issues. Again, as the others have said the circuit with the blown fuse will not prevent the car from starting, unless, it has shorted out with a circuit that the car does use for starting. And that is a possibility. Take your time. Take notes. This is a process of elimination.