OK. Thanks!

 

Did you have 220's installed before? I did this mod about 3 years ago with 220's and am curious if 330's make that much difference?

Paul

 

When capacitors go bad they usually short. That would make the system on that side work like it did before the cap was installed. If it opened only the speaker that it is hooked up to wouldn't work.

Swap out the head unit.

 

The cap is in series with the speaker according to the directions in this thread.

 

You sir, are correct. That's a bit embarassing as I've installed ~20 of these for a number of members. In series.

 

I just finished installing the caps (220s bought from Parts Express because I was already making an order). It took about 30 minutes, much of which was spent running after reading glasses, a flashlight, etc. I tried it out afterwards and what a difference. I used wire nuts thinking I might want to go to 330s, but doubt I'll ever touch them again, I'm so pleased.

Please add my thanks to Pelked1 for originating this thread. It's the cheapest, easiest fix to a real problem I can imagine.

Now to install the Blaupunkt St. Louis I bought a few days ago. It should arrive soon and I'm eager to get digital with the music.

 

Used the 330uf capacitors from this link:

http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-...0803475&sr=1-7

Sounds great! I probably could have made the leads on the capacitor smaller so it fit a little nicer in the door panel, but zip-ties came in handy so I don't have any pieces rattling around in the door .

 

Had a good read up on this, definitly going to have a go as the doors do need knocking down.

If I was to change my headunit for something better is it still worth it ?

Does anybody know where to get 330uF 100V Non-Polarized Caps in the UK ?

Cheers

D.

 

Quote:

Does anybody know where to get 330uF 100V Non-Polarized Caps in the UK ?

Have you tried Amazon or eBay?
Do you have Crutchfield over there?

This mod is definittely worth doing!

It is all going to depend on your ears and how far you go. Unless you bypass the amplifier in the passenger floorboard, I believe the sound quality won't noticeably change-the HU only sends signals to the amp for the "front speakers" and the the amp acts like a "crossover" and splits this signal to the doors and speakers behind the seats. I changed out the HU only because I was tired of only listening to AM/FM + CD. I wanted more choices: USB, Aux In (I've now got two) and iPhone. It was easy to do and I have the original HU in a box. I use an aftermarket GPS instead of the Crossfire Becker unit. The process is not difficult and relatively inexpensive.

 

I respectfully disagree. The improvement in sound quality, especially bass response, was remarkable when I changed my HU to the Pioneer DEH-P5000UB. @ $159 it was a good choice. I know that Newark Electronics has a U.K. branch for the capacitors.

http://www.applegate.co.uk/company/00/07/041.htm

or,

http://uk.farnell.com/

 

Yes it does make a big difference. I went from the 220's to the 330's and I thought it was a huge improvement. It seems there are more low midrange frequencies going to the fronts so the vocals have more presence. The fronts also sound better at low volumes with much more fullness. I'd highly recommend the 330 caps. Those and the 5-band equalizer in my Blaupunkt St. Louis fixed a lot of my sound woes with the stock system for a relatively small investment

 

Thank you, I'll give it a try.

 

Great mod and really improved my sound. I went for the 199uf from the local best buy because I was impatient. They definitely cleared up the muddy bass from the front speakers and let me boost the bass so I could get more enjoyment out of the subs.

 

Help me, gang!

I tried this mod with a pair of "Audio grade" 220NF 630V DC capacitors purchased at Maplin (UK). It certainly knocked the bass down - all I was left with was a VERY thin, reedy output from the door speakers. It was infinitely worse than the stock system sound. I guess I must have the wrong grade caps?

 

Hey everyone. Don't criticize me, but I do happen to listen to SOME rap music, thus, my bass setting mostly sounds on +9. This is so mostly because my car sometimes becomes subject to being used to fill small areas up with popular music due to school events, etc. Since I do enjoy a lot of bass in my music, which capacitors would be best for me? I want either equal or louder bass performance than what we already have but clearer. Thanks!

 

Smoke,

I wrote up a little experiment much earlier in this thread. I went with 270 uF caps to produce the best sound with the OEM Infinity HU.

Then I upgraded to a modestly priced Pioneer HU and the subs then really came alive! I've been asked how big an amp and subs were in the trunk of my roadster.

I don't think the OEM Infinity does a whole lot for the speaker system no matter what value caps are installed. They help, but not enough.

 

I used 330uf non polarized caps and it took only a half hour to install them.
It definitely cuts back the bass in the door speakers andy you get a richer deep bass thump from the sub woofers from behind the seats.
I played a variety of CD's and enjoy the noticeable difference.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=027-374

 

FYI, this morning I got in there and found that both ends of the cap had come undone. After reconnecting them both, the entire drivers side worked again. So, like a string of Christmas lights, if the cap gets disconnected, all the speakers go out on that side.

Thanks to all you who offered help.

 

For the Spring Dragon run, 2009:


For those of you that missed it last year, I'm bringing a bunch of 270 uFarad capacitor kits for the door speaker upgrade.

When I researched the different values of caps available I just used values I had on-hand in my electronics shop. It turns out that the 270 uF value is a special order 1600 piece minimum order unit.

It so happens that I have 30 pairs (30 kits) to offer. $5 each.

Let me know if you're interested.

 

i'll take a kit .. see u at the dragon