Biggest stereo bang for the buck mod
I think the most important thing to do in our stereo is put 2 coils to cut the high frequencies in the door woofers! It's easy and you can cancel some resonances terribles even when you listen to the news. Now I can hear the subwoofer too!
I posted in this thread when I was 17, ordered caps (don't remember which) and installed. Then, I liked my music loud and the bass BOOMING. Since then, I have matured a bit and now prefer clarity to the boom. Every time I ride in my friend's G37 with a Bose or drive my mom's Cadillac with the 15 speaker Bose, I am very envious.
I still enjoy a the punchy bass (usually stays on +8 or +9), but I now want the crisp sharpness and punch. Could someone please recommend a capacitor for what I am describing?
I still enjoy a the punchy bass (usually stays on +8 or +9), but I now want the crisp sharpness and punch. Could someone please recommend a capacitor for what I am describing?
I still enjoy a the punchy bass (usually stays on +8 or +9), but I now want the crisp sharpness and punch. Could someone please recommend a capacitor for what I am describing?
DITTO...
DITTO...
Originally Posted by smokey847
I posted in this thread when I was 17, ordered caps (don't remember which) and installed. Then, I liked my music loud and the bass BOOMING. Since then, I have matured a bit and now prefer clarity to the boom. Every time I ride in my friend's G37 with a Bose or drive my mom's Cadillac with the 15 speaker Bose, I am very envious.
I still enjoy a the punchy bass (usually stays on +8 or +9), but I now want the crisp sharpness and punch. Could someone please recommend a capacitor for what I am describing?
I still enjoy a the punchy bass (usually stays on +8 or +9), but I now want the crisp sharpness and punch. Could someone please recommend a capacitor for what I am describing?
Did the mod today. $3.00 for the caps. RS only had 220uF so that's where I'm starting. May go up to 270uF but for now everything is so much cleaner with the bass turned up.
One thing many forget when looking at high end audio...producers mix masters to sound best on an average stereo. ie Jensen or Pioneer home speakers etc.. Unless you are buying a recording specifically mixed flat or for high end HiFi, you still need to EQ. You also have to still dial in the room or car to account for natural resonances and reflections. Often folks are let down by high end systems due to the original mix of the music or soundtrack.
There is no perfect system except through trail and error. My husband used a pink noise generator to dial in our theather room. The system is flat to the room at the number one seating position from 20-20K, however every soundtrack still needs adjustment to sound best.
One thing many forget when looking at high end audio...producers mix masters to sound best on an average stereo. ie Jensen or Pioneer home speakers etc.. Unless you are buying a recording specifically mixed flat or for high end HiFi, you still need to EQ. You also have to still dial in the room or car to account for natural resonances and reflections. Often folks are let down by high end systems due to the original mix of the music or soundtrack.
There is no perfect system except through trail and error. My husband used a pink noise generator to dial in our theather room. The system is flat to the room at the number one seating position from 20-20K, however every soundtrack still needs adjustment to sound best.
I did this mod about two weeks ago with 220 mf polarized caps and it sounded better. I am normally in the car solo, so the music is up almost all of the time. Lately I have been getting some "blap" from the door speakers on heavy bass songs, so I figured the caps were failing due to being polarized. Switched the caps out today for non-polarized, 220 mf and crisp clean sound is back! For those that are interested, I do not have the stock head unit. I bought a low end Sony from Crutchfield that had blue-tooth capabilities and installed it with the supplied harness from Crutchfield. Additionally, I am not using the pre-amp outputs on the Sony, I am using the standard speaker outputs from the Sony harness. The pre-amp outputs limited the sound so much that with the windows down, I had to have the stereo set at max volume (50) just to hear it. By going with the speaker wires in the Sony harness, now there is no need to go much past 25. I also have the "loudness" active and I am using a preset EQ setting in the Sony called "Edge". Sounds AWESOME!! Those subs behind the seat hit HARD!
RL
RL
Paddled around in that boat for about 6 months.. then found the Clarion with all the options I wanted for 120 bucks. Have no regrets over loosing the factory look.
Which Clarion? Difficulty installing?
The CZ501 (in my tag line).. Factory refurb off ebay. Didn't want to wait on ebay when it came in and went to best buy for the wireing harness adapter and the european antenna adapter (35 bucks) Vrs about 16 getting from ebay. Closest thing to an issue was the mounting sleeve. The tabs you push in wont hit any openings on the Crossfires stereo opening. There are small holes in the top and bottom sides of the clarion frame and I ended up putting a tiny screw into the frame to the housing and all was well. It has the 4 volt preamps if I ever want to upgrade or add another amp. Blue tooth works great. The phone book on my phone isn't compatable so I dial with my phone and put it away. The website (clarion) has a list of phones and phonebook compatability. Worked with my old phone (newphone had issues and later and got fixed). So next phone upgrade will be checked for compatability.
Not trying to advertise for Crutchfield, but when you order from them (which this unit was my first order from them), you get EVERYTHING needed - factory adapter harness, antenna adapter, the special tools to remove your factory head unit and all the instructions needed to install your new toy. I paid $130 and couldn't be happier with my purchase and it only took about 4 days to receive my order. MrMiata is correct in saying that there is really no place for the "carrier" to be secured once you get your old unit out of the hole. He used screws, I ~carefully~ drilled a couple of holes in the inner area so the tabs could fold into the holes. After that, it's a cakewalk installing the stereo.
Good luck!!
Have to see some photos of all this 'drilling' stuff...but may consider, seriously, a headpiece change. Still using the 240 total watt amp, right?
Yes, just using a harness adapter puts you right back to "OEM" hookup. The option to break out the rear subs to the rear channel of your new head unit is there too. You have to seperate out the wires at the sub and pull a new pair up to you head unit. There is a write up on it here. Kinda on my list of things to do, along with moving my bass cannon to the RCA plugs on the back of my stereo (separate bass outputs on it)


