Since this is kind of getting off subject of the Cap Mod, I'll send you some pics of what I did to see if it will help.

RL

 

Just a big THANKS! to everyone who has contributed to this thread. I recently made this modification, and it ROCKS! Just to add my $.02:

The draftsperson at my work used to have a career as an audio technician, and I asked him for his advice before making the modification. He highly recommended using non polarized caps, but conceded that they were more expensive and harder to find than polarized ones.

He then told me that I could get the same benefits by using two polarized caps placed in series with each other. The caps should have their positive terminals wired together, and the speaker wires going in and out of the negative terminals, so the wiring should look like:

source -cap++cap- speaker

When using two caps like this, the uF rating should be doubled, so I used two 470uF caps for each speaker. These were available at Radio Shack for a little less than $6 for all 4 needed for the job.

At first, I thought the sound was a little "tinny", but then I adjusted my audio settings. Now I can't believe how good the system sounds. The doors don't rattle, and the bass from the subs just thumps!

Two thumbs WAY up!

 

I may try this mod...most interesting. I will probably use caps that match what I already have.

 

Glad you got it done! I made the non-polorized caps from two sets of polorized caps when I did my mod. I posted all that I did here ( https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ized-caps.html ) in the forum. Feel free to use the info if you want!

 

I finally received a pair of non-polarized 330uf capacitors in the mail that I ordered via Amazon, from "Parts Express". These are 100 volt versions, and are pretty big, but worked great!

The only thing I changed from the original instructions was soldering the connections together instead of using crimp connectors. I know the crimps are a lot easier, but if you're going to do ANY kind of remotely serious work on car stereos -- you *really* should invest in a butane powered soldering iron and solder all of the connections. I just wrap them in electrical tape after that to insulate them.

I've had so many times now where a crimp connection started failing on me, causing something to malfunction or a speaker to cut in and out randomly -- and the hassle of pulling everything back out to track it down isn't worth it.

I'm not even that good at soldering, but soldering a wire to another wire, or a wire to the end of a single component like one of these capacitors is the easiest type of soldering to do. You don't have to really worry about heating something up too much and damaging it like you do when working with small components on circuit boards.

 

Hey i needed some help on the "biggest stereo bang for the buck" It's really confusing for me because im an not a audio guy. But i thought i should give it a try because i dont want to buy subs, yet. I need a really good detailed way to do it right, the first time. I've been to the post and their was alot of people saying use the 240's or the he was using the wrong caps, etc. etc. So to whoever did it correctly; can you tell me the step by step instructions, if you can with pictures please , and where you bought your materials at too. That would be great because i've heard alot of positive results from doing this and i want in )

Thanks again!

 

You don't have to buy sub's. You already have 2 of them.
330uf's best for rock. .02

 

Nice!!, i just came back with 4, 470uf's from radio shack. but did you use a wire nut to hold the two positive ends together? and what should i do to the negative ends, how would i connect them into the existing wires?

 

So the capacitors should be connected on the signal side and not the ground?

 

I connected mine to the black wire of the door speaker and they work great.

Used non-polarized, 100V, 220uf capacitors.

I also attached them with quick-connect spade type connectors so I can change capacitance (if needed) without cutting any more wire out of the door.

Worked fine for me

RL

 

Excellent, sir! Well done!

 

I am about to do this for the second time since leaving the Crossfire family in 2007. It worked great on my first car and I know it will make a huge difference to my new roadster.

 

Folks, I found a whole bag of 100V 270 uF caps I used for this. Postage ($2) for a pair.

 

Any drawbacks while doing this?

 

None that anyone has found, to my knowledge! #1 way to improve the stock setup (OEM amp).

 

Now done for the second time. Same difference. HUge!!!! Thanks Pelked. Are you still around?

 

I saw him post just the other day!

 

Add me to the list of satisfied diy stereo modders! Thanks Pelked for the new back massager!

 

As a FYI to do this on a slk32 you need to remove door panel as access hole is only by the mirror and speaker connection is about 6" below it.
still rocks tho.

 

I did the mod in 25 minutes and with succes. Now I can turn up the volume without feeling annoyed. The balance is there. The simplest ideas often turn out to be the best ideas. I had plans to change the stock amp and the speakers. It's still not the best car stereo you can buy, but it's acceptable now. I keep a lot of money in my pocket. The mod did cost me 9 Euro's, included shipping costs.