Biggest stereo bang for the buck mod
Sounds to me as though you are replacing the old system with a new one that has crossover net works internal to it. If the old system is completely gone and you are running new wire you will not need to do the mod. It is just for the stock system and basically builds a crossover( capacitor) to put power to the woofers and keep or limit power or frequencies to the door speakers which are mid range. This is what I understand is happenning, or something very close.
I have had an issue with the volume of my subs, for which I opened another thread (Little volume from rear speakers), but for which I think it might help some of us here. Because it has something to do with the lack of subs volume/power.
Because our radio is not really an intuitive type, I kept pressing and holding buttons to find out what happens.
You can select sound settings by pressing and holding the OPT button for 3 seconds, until USER appears on the display. By turning the right rotary/push button you can now select USER 1, USER 2, or USER 3. The specific user memory saves the sound settings (BASS, TREB and BAL). Nice, nothing out of the ordinary here.

But now comes the tricky part.
When you press and hold the AUD button for 4 seconds, the tone values for the set user memory (USER 1, 2 or 3) are set to 0 (mean value), LINEAR. Meaning that the factory compensation, specific for our XF, is lost and the radio is set to its standard values, LINEAR, being (whatever) all corrections set to normal. Frequency and volume corrections are lost. Not being BASS, TREB and BAL.
And the tricky part is that this cannot be reversed (turned back) on the radio.

I noticed the clear difference instantly by switching between user memories (USER 1, 2 & 3) and experienced it as a lost volume/power in the subs.
Happily, the factory compensation can be re-obtained by momentarily disconnecting the radio from power. This can be fairly easy done by removing the corresponding fuses, which differ per year and model and can be found in the fuse box in engine compartment, at the firewall at the driver’s side.
Because our radio is not really an intuitive type, I kept pressing and holding buttons to find out what happens.
You can select sound settings by pressing and holding the OPT button for 3 seconds, until USER appears on the display. By turning the right rotary/push button you can now select USER 1, USER 2, or USER 3. The specific user memory saves the sound settings (BASS, TREB and BAL). Nice, nothing out of the ordinary here.

But now comes the tricky part.
When you press and hold the AUD button for 4 seconds, the tone values for the set user memory (USER 1, 2 or 3) are set to 0 (mean value), LINEAR. Meaning that the factory compensation, specific for our XF, is lost and the radio is set to its standard values, LINEAR, being (whatever) all corrections set to normal. Frequency and volume corrections are lost. Not being BASS, TREB and BAL.
And the tricky part is that this cannot be reversed (turned back) on the radio.

I noticed the clear difference instantly by switching between user memories (USER 1, 2 & 3) and experienced it as a lost volume/power in the subs.
Happily, the factory compensation can be re-obtained by momentarily disconnecting the radio from power. This can be fairly easy done by removing the corresponding fuses, which differ per year and model and can be found in the fuse box in engine compartment, at the firewall at the driver’s side.
Last edited by SuperD500; Jan 1, 2013 at 12:43 PM. Reason: Wrong picture size
Mmmmm, I really don't understand why they're so small, they were bigger when I uploaded them.
They're cuts taken from the (.pdf) radio manual.
I've uploaded them into my photo album, they're bigger there ...
They're cuts taken from the (.pdf) radio manual.
I've uploaded them into my photo album, they're bigger there ...
Last edited by SuperD500; Jan 1, 2013 at 12:14 PM.
SuperD500..
Those photos are fine and large when I clicked on them on my PC.
dtinker and kingtj
Thanks for the info. I wired up a plug in case I ever need to try to mod but I too believe the mod is more to remove certain frequencies from the stock door speakers. With all the changes I made I am starting from scratch probably. I'll update once I get it all back together. This is not something I want to do again....much more work than I wanted to do but my stock radio and pass speaker had to be replaced.
FREE
Anyone need a set of stock tweeters or a good stock door speaker? Pay for shipping..paypal (post office boxes if you want) and I will mail them to you.
Those photos are fine and large when I clicked on them on my PC.
dtinker and kingtj
Thanks for the info. I wired up a plug in case I ever need to try to mod but I too believe the mod is more to remove certain frequencies from the stock door speakers. With all the changes I made I am starting from scratch probably. I'll update once I get it all back together. This is not something I want to do again....much more work than I wanted to do but my stock radio and pass speaker had to be replaced.
FREE
Anyone need a set of stock tweeters or a good stock door speaker? Pay for shipping..paypal (post office boxes if you want) and I will mail them to you.
Yet again another great mod. Still can’t get over how informative this forum has been. I just installed the 220uf capacitors and what a difference in the clarity of the door speakers. I however like the sound of bass and there for turned my bass level to +6 and sounds much better than before the mod. I’m satisfied with the stock system now. No need to add extra weight in audio equipment. Keeping it lean for speed.
Have a pair of caps left by chance?
I have a brand new pair of caps left that I purchased to install but ended up purchasing a whole new third-party stereo system that allowed me to control bass and the speakers throughout. So, I had no need for the caps.
Brand new and never installed
Brand new and never installed
What stereo system did you get?
I purchased a 2012 Kenwood head unit and it was the best move I ever made. Really made my factory amp and speakers boom. I did change my door tweeters with Kickers and that really made the system explode.
By the way i was concerned about cosmetics. Concerned that going away from the silver head unit would mess the look of the interior up. Wrong!! The black head unit actually looks better than the silver head unit. Consider it
I purchased a 2012 Kenwood head unit and it was the best move I ever made. Really made my factory amp and speakers boom. I did change my door tweeters with Kickers and that really made the system explode.
By the way i was concerned about cosmetics. Concerned that going away from the silver head unit would mess the look of the interior up. Wrong!! The black head unit actually looks better than the silver head unit. Consider it
By the way i was concerned about cosmetics. Concerned that going away from the silver head unit would mess the look of the interior up. Wrong!! The black head unit actually looks better than the silver head unit. Consider it
Last edited by 2much2handle; Apr 30, 2013 at 11:35 PM.
The factory amp was more than enough power to push the Kenwood. In fact, I can only turn the volume up 3/4 ways and it is blasting. WIth the factory unit I had to turn the volume all the way up and it still was not loud enough for my liking.
But I am going to tell you the key. One of our forum bros on here who was guiding me thru all of this told me to go and purchase these Kicker tweeters and keep all of the subs and mids stock. I was skeptical, but let me tell you those kicker tweeters really amplify the rest of the system.
I saw where the other forum meber wants to know the kenwood head unit I purchased. It is 12:00 in the morning here on the East Coast. I promise tomorrow morning I will go out to my car and actually get the unit I purchased. I promise.
If you guys are serious about your inguiry I will get the more detailed info on exactly how I hooked everything up and just how easy it was. Trust me, I am not electrically inclined and so if I say it was easy it was.
One last thing the forum member who told me to get the kicker tweeters, assured me that my system would sound like a competition system even with the stock subs. He was so right. I have a Porsche 911 that I put in car shows and that I installed this real expensive double din system in it with three TV's in the interior and a 15" TV monitor in th front trunk. The cheap kicker tweeters I put in my crossfire are blowing away the super expensive system I have in the porsche to the point that I am thinking about yanking the speakers out of the porsche and replacing them with the kickers. This will be a shame because the speakers in the porsche are 8 months old.
I know I am being vague in my replies because I am not tekkie person, I am just telling you that the modification that I did with my system, with little or no effort, is blowing my mind.
One last thing, you guys referenced the tutorial that appeared to be more hastle than help. Well i ditched that and went by the step by step instruction given to me by one of our forum members who whowed me how to hook the Kenwood directly up to our factory amp. And doing this way you do not need an aftermarket amop because the factory amp puts out more than enough power if you have the right head unit attached to it.
Also, I first purchased the Alpine head unit for looks and quality. But it was so spartan and it did not provide the indepth settings that the Kenwood provides, which is what allows you to do away with the CAPS in the doors. Because you can control the amount of bass going to the doors by the Kenwood settings. I could not do this with the Alpine
Sure. PM me. I have a bunch already made up for easy install.
Max
Max


