i had to remove the grill. snowbanks and plastic don't mix at any speed. i had to remove the entire grill because it broke along with the pass headlight. so when i replaced the head light i removed what was left of the grill. what a difference in the way the car responds now. so i'm thinking about making a grill that doesn't cover the front of the air intakes. any one seen anything like that on the web, or know where to get a custom grill made? what about a better intake system since the stock fit isn't all that good, especially since it has been around since the late 70's.

 

I was looking the front air inlets over the other day brother, and I came to the same conclusion... if I could get the grille out of the path of the air inlets, all I would need to do is hook up an inline air filter, insulate my feeder hoses from engine compartment heat, and bang instant HP. How much of a difference are you noticing?

 

there is a noticeable difference with out the grill there. forcing air into the intake makes a big difference as in ram air hoods. now just to cool the air as you said...

 

I'm going to being looking the idea over soon, it sounds like cheap HP to me, and it looks to easy but it's not.

 

firebaseD JMACK...brilliant... this is good brothers churn more ideas...

...and then what if we raise the freon amount, re-route the in and out tubing from the A/C compressor into the cabin... so that we can have these cold aluminum tubes snake up or around the air intake duct works... and you KNOW those things get frosty white!!! when in use...

colder air... is it worth it? i don't know...

man, if colder air is the goal then why cant we add an extra A/C duct from the a/c cabin blower/fan with a V connector where the driver turns on his a/c. then hits a toggle switch to re-route all newly produced cold air and deliver directly where the engine takes its crisp oxygen?

you can get a/c AIR down to 40 degrees so with the frosted freon tubes snaked around the air intakes... at one end and a direct shot of "fresh" cold air at engine's direct intake... from the other end...

j

 

"J" you are nuts, and I freakin love it... that is so far out in left field, heck it sounds like it would work! I'm not sure if you could get away with blowing cold air into the chamber without some kind of pre-warm, I'm thinking the sudden induction of very cold air would crack the head, imo only, but those are the brain storms that make people say "How can that car do that?" HOOAH

 

Thanks FirebaseD!!! I didn't even try my best on that one!!! HOOOAHH!!

But does it have to be directly into the chamber? What i meant by point of entry is JUST PRIOR TO THE MANIFOLD!

CHECK OUT WHAT WOODY is doing...




AND HERE IS THAT THREAD... https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ghlight=INTAKE

2 DECADES AGO I MADE MY LIVING INSTALLING AFTERMARKET A/C SYSTEMS... SO WE WOULD ROUTE THE TUBING EVERY WHICH WAY...


I ALSO HAVE A GREAT IDEA FOR A GOOD SOLID LAUNCH OFF THE LINE IN A 1/4 MILE RUN... I THOUGHT OF THIS ONE YEARS BACK AND I AM SURPRISED THAT IT HASN'T BEEN DEVELOPED YET... BUT THAT IS FOR ANOTHER THREAD...

 

It is a darn good idea, but it's already been done... Plus you'd probably need an ecu that has 2 fuel curves, one for basic driving and one to take advantage of the cold air for a short time.

From http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/frame...hp&carnum=1629:

Ford’s patented SuperCooler technology cleverly provides a special burst of power for the SVT Lightning concept. Traditional intercoolers dissipate heat from the supercharged air by circulating coolant through a front-mounted, air-cooled radiator. With the SuperCooler system, the vehicle’s air conditioning system is used to chill a small storage tank of coolant to about 30 degrees Fahrenheit. On demand, the SuperCooler system switches the intercooler flow from its normal circulation and dumps the chilled coolant into the engine’s intercooler. In turn, the intercooler dissipates up to 20 percent more heat from the charge air – resulting in a denser air charge.

 

strange... this is my second reply to you!!! the 1st one i submitted then it disappeared!?!?

anyway... well its satisfying to know that it is in a tangible form... thanks for the details...

is it possible to program 1 ECU to handle the 2 tasks? my brain is from the pre computer and pre cable TV days.

j

 

there's an easier way. i saw a device set up in a magazine. it used freon to cool the air before it entered the chamber as well as cooling the intakes. especially useful for turbo cars. but i forget what it was called. it was relatively cheap as well.

besides the a/c is a drag on the engine so i don't think it would be a good idea. taking energy to make energy. i'd remove the a/c if i wasn't leasing this thing any way.

 

Your right on the AC dragging down your HP, if I recall back when 3 or 4 drive belts were being used on cars, each belt accounted for a 12 HP drop, I could be wrong. People use to remove the smog pump belt, and the AC belts for added HP.

Still cooling the fuel before it entered the chamber, or the air before it entered the intake would increase HP alot, maybe even enough to offset the hp drag from the ac.

 

Great thread. I'm in for a marketable mod for all XF coups. Anyone interested?

Chips are great, but nothing beats the real thing. Cooler air, cooler engines... Better fuel mixtures... Higher HP.

Let's design it and sell it!

tcrammer@hrtc.net

 

One thing to remember is that the A/C only drags down HP when it's turned ON. At all other times the magnetic clutch on the A/C compressor is disengaged so there is no unnecessary drag on the engine. You will gain nothing except a little weight savings by removing the A/C.

Speaking of engine drag, I remember reading somewhere that top fuel dragsters use up something like 400 HP just to turn the blower!

FirebaseD: You're right on the money. Way back in the day, The GM heavy duty A/C compressor pulled anywhere between 12 and 15 HP.

 

guys... this is good...

the real performance gain is from the air being colder as the molecules are closer together allowing the engine to suck in more air at the same compressed state... being that this is a naturally aspirated engine it operates at 1 bar/14.5 ish PSI (atmospheric pressure) and will suck in the amount of air that it can at that pressure... to raise the that pressure you'd be going way too fast (most articles show a noticeable gain at over 120 mph)... but there is a definite gain from the air being colder as the molecules are jammed much tighter together at the natural pressure and gains are felt all around...

what i am considering is a cowl induction setup... the area near your windshield where the wiper blade motors are is a great spot for a air intake... the shorter intake path to the throttle body will skew the hp to the top end more however...

i see someone mentioned cooling systems for the intake... there is a company that makes a bullet shaped intake tube obstruction... the idea is that CO2 flowing out of a compressed air bottle through this device cools the bullet shaped object to freezing temperatures and air molecules passing over the object will be chilled... works well on turbo/supercharged cars, not all too exciting for the NA folks... at best, on a super hot day, it would be 5 - 10 hp gain...
for that money it cost, and the fact that you need to go fill it up somewhere that can give you a CO2 charge at over 1,000 psi, you may as well buy a devils own water/meth injection kit for your car for the same price and use .99 cent windshield wiper fluid (5% methanol, mostly water, some detergent) and you will be cooling your intake charge and steam cleaning your motor for the cleanest combustion chamber in town.... or a 15 hp jetted nitrous kit, it will provide 15 hp worth of oxygen from the chemical reaction when the n2o molecule breaks up, but it will provide additional power from the super cooling effect of ice cold nitrous being shot into the intake tract netting probably double that in torque...

anyone looking for power out of a non SRT crossfire should consider the path of free flowing exhaust/nitrous kit/custom intake for colder air... with a super super low jetting of the nitrous to 15 hp... i can see a total gain of 25 - 30 hp to the wheel out of all the pieces combined... its safe cheap fun that way.

can you guys tell i've been contemplating modding the car already ? wow, its been only a month and i can barely hold myself from modding it... i have problems.

 

thanx for sharing your knowledge/research... what happens when you introduce pure oxygen to the induction system...???

 

pure oxygen would be a real kick in performance but unfortunately it would be very very very dangerous to drive around with a tank of oxygen in the car, any intake backfire would turn you into a mini hiroshima ... thats why nitrous is such a great compromise, the n2o is very safe even if sprayed at a open flame, it is not until it is introduced to the extreme compressed hot atmosphere of the combustion chamber that the n2 break away from the oxygen and result in gained performance...

nitrous systems have gotten much more user friendly in past few years.... utilizing a automatic bottler heater + remote bottle opener, the system can be operated without your involvement other than a flip of a switch...
engine safety for nitrous involves making sure a few conditions are met... 1. make sure air fuel ratio stays in the proper range (12:1 is the accepted standard) cause richer will cause intake backfires from fuel puddling in the intake manifold and leaner will cause destroyed engine internals 2. never spray at low RPM as the torque produced will likely damage the engine 3. make sure the system stops spraying before the rev limiter kicks in as that would be a major lean condition resulting in utter motor destruction

the fuel tuning can be taken care of through the addition of a wideband o2 such as the AEM unit sold for 300 dollars everywhere and changing fuel jet size on the kit... the part of making sure the system sprays only in the proper range can be taken care of with the use of a RPM window switch such as the one harlan engineering produces, this can be set to activate the system only between 3,000 - 6,000 RPM... last, add a toggle switch of your choice as the master arm switch for the system, through the use of a few relays, you can wire the system up so that when the ignition key is off the system is never armed (so bottle heater cannot be left of unattended and bottle is closed), when the ignition is on, and the toggle switch is off, the system is off and the bottle is closed... when the ignition is on, and
the toggle switch is on, the bottle is open, bottle heater is maintaining a proper bottle pressure for optimum hp gain... the result of a setup like this is a safe and worry free system... just remember, n2o is non flammable and automotive grade n2o will not make you get high if it leaks in the cabin (tommy boy anyone)?

i am considering this route... as i already have a venom nitrous kit bottle that i have from our avenger and a wideband o2 from my srt...