Reset computer after oil change?
Reset computer after oil change?
To any one out there who can help. I have done alot of research and am thinking of changing the oil on my 2004 coupe next week by myself. It will be my first time and I have read alot of the TSB articles on the subject and such. My one question remaining is this...
when talking to my friend he mentioned when you change the oil you have to have the dealer reset the computer as well. Otherwise the check engine light will come on. Is this true of the XFire and if so is there a way to do it yourself!?
Thanks guys.
when talking to my friend he mentioned when you change the oil you have to have the dealer reset the computer as well. Otherwise the check engine light will come on. Is this true of the XFire and if so is there a way to do it yourself!?
Thanks guys.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
You can reset the FSS yourself - however, it will probably take multiple attempts.
Change the oil using a 'Topsider' - it's a boat pump.
You can buy them from marine places, Harborfreight.com has the cheapest around.
Search the forum - they're easy and quick - work exceptionally well too!!
For resetting (I believe this is on the owners manual)...
RESETTING THE FSS MAINTENANCE INDICATOR AFTER AN OIL CHANGE
1. Move the ignition switch to the “RUN” position.
2. Within 4 seconds of moving the ignition switch into the
“RUN” position, press the reset button for the trip odometer
twice within one second. The display for the FSS service
request is activated for 10 seconds
3. During the 10 seconds the FSS service request is displayed,
move the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.
The FSS service request will continue to be displayed.
4. Press the reset button for the trip odometer and
hold.
5. Move the ignition switch to the “RUN” position
6. Continue to press and hold the reset button for the trip
odometer (about 10 seconds) until the audible signal
sounds and the new start distance appears in the display.
The tool symbol should disappear at this time.
Change the oil using a 'Topsider' - it's a boat pump.
You can buy them from marine places, Harborfreight.com has the cheapest around.
Search the forum - they're easy and quick - work exceptionally well too!!
For resetting (I believe this is on the owners manual)...
RESETTING THE FSS MAINTENANCE INDICATOR AFTER AN OIL CHANGE
1. Move the ignition switch to the “RUN” position.
2. Within 4 seconds of moving the ignition switch into the
“RUN” position, press the reset button for the trip odometer
twice within one second. The display for the FSS service
request is activated for 10 seconds
3. During the 10 seconds the FSS service request is displayed,
move the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.
The FSS service request will continue to be displayed.
4. Press the reset button for the trip odometer and
hold.
5. Move the ignition switch to the “RUN” position
6. Continue to press and hold the reset button for the trip
odometer (about 10 seconds) until the audible signal
sounds and the new start distance appears in the display.
The tool symbol should disappear at this time.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
I've changed my oil once, and reset the FSS.
Changing the oil is easy.
Apparently, there's not much room under the car to drain the oil.
Do a search on 'Topsider' or 'draining oil' - that sort of stuff.
There was a post a few days ago - some guy relating his experience.
I don't think you'll read of a bad experience with the topsider.
Changing the oil is easy.
Apparently, there's not much room under the car to drain the oil.
Do a search on 'Topsider' or 'draining oil' - that sort of stuff.
There was a post a few days ago - some guy relating his experience.
I don't think you'll read of a bad experience with the topsider.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Wow, I didn't know you had to reset the FSS. I just changed my oil at my brothers shop. I have to reset too...The oil change was really easy with a lift. Just make sure before you drain from the plug that you crack the filter open. If you don't you could leave some oil in the top of the engine...Total cost with oil and filter was $62.
Last edited by distantpulse; 05-24-2007 at 02:20 PM.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by spensley
I've changed my oil once, and reset the FSS.
Changing the oil is easy.
Apparently, there's not much room under the car to drain the oil.
Do a search on 'Topsider' or 'draining oil' - that sort of stuff.
There was a post a few days ago - some guy relating his experience.
I don't think you'll read of a bad experience with the topsider.
Changing the oil is easy.
Apparently, there's not much room under the car to drain the oil.
Do a search on 'Topsider' or 'draining oil' - that sort of stuff.
There was a post a few days ago - some guy relating his experience.
I don't think you'll read of a bad experience with the topsider.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Thanks for the advice. Yeah I saw the topsider but I was thinking of just investing in tire ramps (run about $35 at advance auto) and just drain it. I will let you guys know how it goes. If anyone else has info on the reset feel free to chime in! The topsider seems good too but pricey.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by mrobinso
Steve H., What your saying makes sense. My question is... how difficult is it to remove the belly pan? I mean is it a time consuming process and hard to manage? Thanks!
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Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by Steve Hellums
I'm not knocking the guy's that do the topsider method, but as I stated earlier in the thread, you are leaving the nasty crap in the bottom of your oil pan. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
I recall reading somewhere that the M112 engine was originally designed with no drain plug at all because vacuum extraction was the preferred method of oil removal.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
The size of metallic particles that would be in the oil, would be so small they would be suspended in the oil, and not sink to the bottom and only come out if the pan was removed.
Therefore, they would be sucked up the tube (in my opinion).
If the metallic particles are so heavy that they are not suspended in the oil, an oil change is the least of your worries.
Therefore, they would be sucked up the tube (in my opinion).
If the metallic particles are so heavy that they are not suspended in the oil, an oil change is the least of your worries.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by mrobinso
Steve H., What your saying makes sense. My question is... how difficult is it to remove the belly pan? I mean is it a time consuming process and hard to manage? Thanks!
I know the Mercedes dealers use the vacuum, but I feel it has more to do with saving time rather than it being the best method.
The pan itself is perfectly flat (unlike most American oil pans) and the drain plug faces the passenger side of the car.
The cover is held on with 4 bolts (same size) and comes off very easily. I don't even jack the car up. I simply drive the front wheels up on two, 2"X10" boards (1 under each front tire) and that gives me enough room to reach everything. Some people have voiced opinions that because even though the front of the car is only raised less than 2", some oil may still be left in the back of the pan. All I can say is that the pan looks like it is perpendicular with the floor of my garage. The next time I change it, maybe I'll put a "level" on it just to see. Anyway, if you're afraid that you're not getting every last drop of oil out of it draining it this way, you can always add 1" to the drivers side "ramp" and that will put just a little more angle on the oil pan.
The whole process usually takes me less than a half hour to do, and yes I know the Topsider is much faster, but I don't mind spending the extra time on my car.
If I drove my car in the winter months, and since the thought of laying on a cold concrete floor doesn't sound that appealing, I would probably use the Topsider method. But my car stays parked inside during the winter months, so that's not a problem.
No matter which method you use, probably the most important thing to remember when changing your own oil, is to make sure that you get the "O-RINGS" back in their proper position on the oil filter bayonet. Actually the largest o-ring is really the only one that can be misplaced. But if it's in the wrong position, you will spray oil over the entire engine compartment.
Just pick up a "B" size, oil filter cap wrench at AutoZone or any auto parts store. (couple dollars)
I've always changed the oil myself on all my cars, and the Crossfire is by far, the easiest one I've done. I just wish it wasn't so darn expensive.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by spensley
The size of metallic particles that would be in the oil, would be so small they would be suspended in the oil, and not sink to the bottom and only come out if the pan was removed.
Therefore, thay would be sucked up the tube (in my opinion).
If the metallic particles are so heavy that they are not suspended in the oil, an oil change is the least of your worries.
Therefore, thay would be sucked up the tube (in my opinion).
If the metallic particles are so heavy that they are not suspended in the oil, an oil change is the least of your worries.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by mrobinso
Just ordered my Topsider from harborfreight.com. $33.19 w/ shipping and handling. Wish me luck! I'll let you know how it goes with the FSS reset and the whole process. Thanks.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by +fireamx
I'm one of those guys who uses the old fashion method (draining it out of the drain plug). I believe it more completely drains everything out of the oil pan vs the vacuum (Topsider).
I know the Mercedes dealers use the vacuum, but I feel it has more to do with saving time rather than it being the best method.
The pan itself is perfectly flat (unlike most American oil pans) and the drain plug faces the passenger side of the car.
The cover is held on with 4 bolts (same size) and comes off very easily. I don't even jack the car up. I simply drive the front wheels up on two, 2"X10" boards (1 under each front tire) and that gives me enough room to reach everything. Some people have voiced opinions that because even though the front of the car is only raised less than 2", some oil may still be left in the back of the pan. All I can say is that the pan looks like it is perpendicular with the floor of my garage. The next time I change it, maybe I'll put a "level" on it just to see. Anyway, if you're afraid that you're not getting every last drop of oil out of it draining it this way, you can always add 1" to the drivers side "ramp" and that will put just a little more angle on the oil pan.
The whole process usually takes me less than a half hour to do, and yes I know the Topsider is much faster, but I don't mind spending the extra time on my car.
If I drove my car in the winter months, and since the thought of laying on a cold concrete floor doesn't sound that appealing, I would probably use the Topsider method. But my car stays parked inside during the winter months, so that's not a problem.
No matter which method you use, probably the most important thing to remember when changing your own oil, is to make sure that you get the "O-RINGS" back in their proper position on the oil filter bayonet. Actually the largest o-ring is really the only one that can be misplaced. But if it's in the wrong position, you will spray oil over the entire engine compartment.
Just pick up a "B" size, oil filter cap wrench at AutoZone or any auto parts store. (couple dollars)
I've always changed the oil myself on all my cars, and the Crossfire is by far, the easiest one I've done. I just wish it wasn't so darn expensive.
I know the Mercedes dealers use the vacuum, but I feel it has more to do with saving time rather than it being the best method.
The pan itself is perfectly flat (unlike most American oil pans) and the drain plug faces the passenger side of the car.
The cover is held on with 4 bolts (same size) and comes off very easily. I don't even jack the car up. I simply drive the front wheels up on two, 2"X10" boards (1 under each front tire) and that gives me enough room to reach everything. Some people have voiced opinions that because even though the front of the car is only raised less than 2", some oil may still be left in the back of the pan. All I can say is that the pan looks like it is perpendicular with the floor of my garage. The next time I change it, maybe I'll put a "level" on it just to see. Anyway, if you're afraid that you're not getting every last drop of oil out of it draining it this way, you can always add 1" to the drivers side "ramp" and that will put just a little more angle on the oil pan.
The whole process usually takes me less than a half hour to do, and yes I know the Topsider is much faster, but I don't mind spending the extra time on my car.
If I drove my car in the winter months, and since the thought of laying on a cold concrete floor doesn't sound that appealing, I would probably use the Topsider method. But my car stays parked inside during the winter months, so that's not a problem.
No matter which method you use, probably the most important thing to remember when changing your own oil, is to make sure that you get the "O-RINGS" back in their proper position on the oil filter bayonet. Actually the largest o-ring is really the only one that can be misplaced. But if it's in the wrong position, you will spray oil over the entire engine compartment.
Just pick up a "B" size, oil filter cap wrench at AutoZone or any auto parts store. (couple dollars)
I've always changed the oil myself on all my cars, and the Crossfire is by far, the easiest one I've done. I just wish it wasn't so darn expensive.
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Well thats discouraging to hear about the cancelled order. I might call them.
On another note yesterday (before I decided to purchase my topsider) I laid down and tried to go through the motions of dropping the belly pan and such. I suppose two pieces of wood would raise the front high enough to work but it still seems like it would be a little tight. I thought about investing in tire ramps but the topsider is cheaper than those are. Its all so confusing I mean who is right in this case? Topsider or draining method? All I want out of this is to ensure my engine is healthy and free of sludge.
P.S. Some of you might have seen this before but researching some old forum posts on oil changes I found a link someone put up to a step by step oil change for MB SLK w/pictures. It's very helpful! (sorry don't remember the member who posted it).
http://www.slk32.com/pages/oilchange/oilchange.html
On another note yesterday (before I decided to purchase my topsider) I laid down and tried to go through the motions of dropping the belly pan and such. I suppose two pieces of wood would raise the front high enough to work but it still seems like it would be a little tight. I thought about investing in tire ramps but the topsider is cheaper than those are. Its all so confusing I mean who is right in this case? Topsider or draining method? All I want out of this is to ensure my engine is healthy and free of sludge.
P.S. Some of you might have seen this before but researching some old forum posts on oil changes I found a link someone put up to a step by step oil change for MB SLK w/pictures. It's very helpful! (sorry don't remember the member who posted it).
http://www.slk32.com/pages/oilchange/oilchange.html
Re: Reset computer after oil change?
Originally Posted by mrobinso
Well thats discouraging to hear about the cancelled order. I might call them.
On another note yesterday (before I decided to purchase my topsider) I laid down and tried to go through the motions of dropping the belly pan and such. I suppose two pieces of wood would raise the front high enough to work but it still seems like it would be a little tight. I thought about investing in tire ramps but the topsider is cheaper than those are. Its all so confusing I mean who is right in this case? Topsider or draining method? All I want out of this is to ensure my engine is healthy and free of sludge.
P.S. Some of you might have seen this before but researching some old forum posts on oil changes I found a link someone put up to a step by step oil change for MB SLK w/pictures. It's very helpful! (sorry don't remember the member who posted it).
http://www.slk32.com/pages/oilchange/oilchange.html
On another note yesterday (before I decided to purchase my topsider) I laid down and tried to go through the motions of dropping the belly pan and such. I suppose two pieces of wood would raise the front high enough to work but it still seems like it would be a little tight. I thought about investing in tire ramps but the topsider is cheaper than those are. Its all so confusing I mean who is right in this case? Topsider or draining method? All I want out of this is to ensure my engine is healthy and free of sludge.
P.S. Some of you might have seen this before but researching some old forum posts on oil changes I found a link someone put up to a step by step oil change for MB SLK w/pictures. It's very helpful! (sorry don't remember the member who posted it).
http://www.slk32.com/pages/oilchange/oilchange.html
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Re: Oil Change using the Topsider - 05-22-2007 , 02:00 PM
There was a recent article written up on this device, basically to test to see if it actually works and is it better then the conventional method. They said yes it works, but is not as good as the old fashioned way of removing the drain plug. In their test they said the topsider did leave some residue/old oil in the bottom, typically found to be the bad stuff that gravity pulls to the bottom of the drain pan. So keep on loving it but I will keep draining from the pan like I have been with all my cars for what seems like forever.