I usually don't type in caps but I am pissed. Sitting here outside with all lug nuts out and my wheel won't come off. Is there something i am missing. Every DIY yourself doesn't mention anything! Help me before I do something rash!

 

If the rim hasn't been off in a while, there is probably some corrosion between the aluminum rim and the steel disk hat. If you bump the edge of the rim with your hand on one side then the opposite side, it should break free.

Hope this helps.

Bryan
#22 D/Stock

 

PLACE JACK STAND UNDER VEHICLE!
From underneath, strike inner side of rim with a large rubber or plastic mallet/hammer.
Clean mounting surface and reassemble.

 

Excellent reminder crossfirefun, Jack stands should always be used!

Bryan
#22 D/Stock

 

Give the boy a break, NOT !

 

The easiest way to break the corrosion seal between the wheel and hub without having to grovel around underneath is to just free the wheel nuts half a turn or so with the car still on the ground. Then just drive the car back and forth a couple of feet and apply the brakes. Then jack it up and support it on stands and remove the nuts and wheel as normal.

 

To all (including those who doubted me)... I had the car jacked up first of all. After hammering the rubber tire from all angles the tire came loose. Grime and corrosion was strong enough to hold the tire in place. Installed my rotex gold pads front and back. I feel like the back pair is making some noise. I figure this is just wear in noise... please let me know if I should be worried. The pads I removed from the rear had metal covers that covered parts of the brake pad surface. Rotex gold pads don't have those correct?

 

Always resurface your rotors when installing new brake pads.

 

Please don't take offense, but it sounds like you probably should not be doing your own brake job... remember these are the things that prevent you from hitting the wall...

If you are unsure if the pads are installed correctly, or if you bled the hydraulic lines properly, perhaps you should get some help ...

We really hate to see a good Crossfire destroyed like this: http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...arch&plindex=0

 

I understand your doubt you guys. But I did everything just as andrew's DIY, as well as the Porterfield replacement DIY on the forum, and slk32.com's DIY. I am sure everything is installed properly. I didn't resurface because andrew said it wasn't needed and also because my brake pads looked like they had a lot of life left on them (half inch left). Now if someone would be kind enough to answer my question. Do the Rotex Gold brake pads come with a tiny metal clip covering part of the brake pad surface for the rears or not? THANK YOU.

 

Deep breath... We're just busting your chops... I don't know ! I use Porterfield pads... I think you're talking about a metal clip that acts as a wear sensor so when the pads start to wear down, the clip rubs on the disc and squeals to let you know your need new pads... If that's what you're talking about then is doesn't matter since I'm sure you replaced your wear sensors when you replaced your pads...

 

Thanks a lot that does help. I kind of figured they weren't necessary since most of the images I have seen didn't have anything like it. Thanks again.

 

No problem... Sorry again for busting your chops earlier... The Crossfire has electronic wear sensors, so you don't need the "mechanical" ones...

 

HDDP,

Something you said prompts my question, When changing your pads, if you did not break the lines integrity, do you need to bleed the lines and if why? I'm a DIY shadetree mech for 35+ years and have not done it for the drum or disk pad changes. Have I been running on borrowed time all these years??

Greg

 

I ordered and received Rotex pads for my limited and sold them to a forum member when I traded up to SRT. Only the pads were in the box. No clips or anything else.

 

At least you had to open the bleeder to separate the caliper pistons to remove the caliper and pads, correct ? It's always good practice to bleed the lines during a brake change... Sorry, I'm just a DIY mechanic myself, but I'm really careful about brakes...

A race crew mechanic once told me "if your car doesn't start, no biggy ... but if your car doesn't stop, you're dead" !!!

As long as you didn't disconnect the brake lines from the calipers during your change, you should not have gotten any air sucked back into the lines... If your brakes feel fine, then nothing to worry about... If they feel spongy then bleed the lines and see if that helps...

Sorry for being a school marm...

 

Well, now it makes sense. I've always removed the brake reservoir cover and pressed the piston back in so I never opened the lines. Hey, Mamma didn't raise me stupid and someone always has new information for you to use. I would rather learn from others than from mistakes.

Thanks,
Greg

 

To address the 'to bleed or not to bleed' when doing a simple pad slap.

I NEVER open the bleeder to clear the new pad distance, you can simply hold the caliper while on the car and pull against the rotor to 'spread' the pads. This forces the fluid back into the system and lets you put new pads in without bleeding. If you have nearly worn out pads this will take some time to open them up enough, be patient. (Also, if you have added fluid while running on nearly worn out pads, you may have to bleed the brakes in order to open them as the master cylinder and it's reservoir will be full and have no room for the fluid you are trying to back up into the system.

On the subject of brake fluid... change it every two to five years. If you do not, the brake fluid will begin to break down and corrode your lines. No matter what type of fluid DOT3, DOT4, race fluid, etc. Most mechanics will not even tell you this unless you ask. By having your brake fluid flushed every two to five years, you are performing preventative maintenance like you do when you flush and change your coolant system and engine oil.

As to doing brakes yourself... ALWAYS be extra careful when disassembling and reassembling your components. As HDDP quoted... "if your car doesn't start, no biggy ... but if your car doesn't stop, you're dead" !!!