Really Need All Members To Ready This!!
Just got back...
Same issue... everything works, light, doors unlock but when I put the key in and turn to start the engine... nothing as if a kill switch is activated...
So tomorrow the dealer that it is at will try to get it fixed... if they can't they are saying that it is going to cost me the 3k...
What do I do in that case... The thought of paying 3k for repairs that "might" have been fixed for much less by someone who knows about MB or Crossfires is killing me...
But then again have it towed from chrysler to a MB Dealer ... only to be told they want more to fix it..!
Not to mention I am paying a $700 lease payment this month and have not had the car in 2 weeks and who knows how long till its fixed... first time I have ever owed a car that my dealer did not offer me a car while my car is being fixed...
Same issue... everything works, light, doors unlock but when I put the key in and turn to start the engine... nothing as if a kill switch is activated...
So tomorrow the dealer that it is at will try to get it fixed... if they can't they are saying that it is going to cost me the 3k...
What do I do in that case... The thought of paying 3k for repairs that "might" have been fixed for much less by someone who knows about MB or Crossfires is killing me...
But then again have it towed from chrysler to a MB Dealer ... only to be told they want more to fix it..!
Not to mention I am paying a $700 lease payment this month and have not had the car in 2 weeks and who knows how long till its fixed... first time I have ever owed a car that my dealer did not offer me a car while my car is being fixed...
Last edited by Extensive; Oct 14, 2007 at 06:33 PM.
and what if after 3k in repairs its still not fixed ? these guys just do not know what they are doing ... spent more or less in a place that knows the product and you should get better results.
As a last shot, search the thread of programming the keys. Maybe with the low battery and other stuff the keys unprogrammed. I'd at least ask about the trade in, who knows you might be surprised. Heck for $700 you might be driving an Aspen.
Cruzinquick
Cruzinquick
I might be throwing something out there, but has the dealer checked the clutch switch? If you try to start the car and the computer is not getting a signal that the clutch is pushed in, then it will not start...
I've got another long shot for you. I made a spare key for my Dodge Caliber last year (at Ace Hardware). Went out to the car and it started using the new key but then died...tried again...car did the same thing. I started to think that maybe the Caliber had a chip in the key to prevent theft. I called the dealer and the service guy told me that I was lucky to stop at two tries, 'cause if I'd tried it again, I'd been locked out from starting and would to have had it towed to a dealer to get it reprogrammed so I could start it again. Anyway, I'm wondering if maybe the Crossfire has the same thing and you're locked out from starting because your fob/car theft interlock switch got messed up while your battery was dead/ then jumped. Have the dealer check your theft deterrent system to see if there is a theft deterrent programming issue. Might be something they haven't looked at.
Originally Posted by peter_k
I might be throwing something out there, but has the dealer checked the clutch switch? If you try to start the car and the computer is not getting a signal that the clutch is pushed in, then it will not start...
Originally Posted by prowler
I've got another long shot for you. I made a spare key for my Dodge Caliber last year (at Ace Hardware). Went out to the car and it started using the new key but then died...tried again...car did the same thing. I started to think that maybe the Caliber had a chip in the key to prevent theft. I called the dealer and the service guy told me that I was lucky to stop at two tries, 'cause if I'd tried it again, I'd been locked out from starting and would to have had it towed to a dealer to get it reprogrammed so I could start it again. Anyway, I'm wondering if maybe the Crossfire has the same thing and you're locked out from starting because your fob/car theft interlock switch got messed up while your battery was dead/ then jumped. Have the dealer check your theft deterrent system to see if there is a theft deterrent programming issue. Might be something they haven't looked at.
Negative! now another week gone by... called them today... still can not locate the issue...
I will say a prayer for you and your car. If two or three of us do it, then at least God will give you some peace. Or you can go ballistic on the dealership. I say it couldn't hurt.
Cruzinquick
Cruzinquick
Extensive, I wouldn't want to kick someone when they're down, and I'm sorry you are going through all this grief. Hopefully it gets solved soon enough, but also that you learned a few things (even if it was painful).
- Never lease a car for longer than the 3 yr/36k warranty period. Leasing itself is rarely wise, especially outside of factory warranty.
- I hope you haven't been paying $700 a month (for 48 months) on a Crossfire. That's a ton of money ... Please tell me I read that wrong. :-)
Mike
- Never lease a car for longer than the 3 yr/36k warranty period. Leasing itself is rarely wise, especially outside of factory warranty.
- I hope you haven't been paying $700 a month (for 48 months) on a Crossfire. That's a ton of money ... Please tell me I read that wrong. :-)
Mike
Automatic...
Hmm, Here are my stabs in the dark.
immobilizer code sync issue (have they looked at the antenna that goes around the key cylinder that senses the transponder or the SKREEM module).
Try unlocking the car with the drivers door cylinder, cycle the ignition key on for 90 seconds, then off, then on again for 90,then off, then on again for 90,then off, then on again for 90, then off, then on again for 90, then off for five seconds and then remove the key push the lock button twice and then unlock twice and start the car. This is the Mercedes key sync procedure... If that works, you are a having a syncing issue caused most likely by a defective key or the key cylinder antenna... It's really rare the SKREEM module goes defective, but it is possible...
Have they looked at replacing the ignition cylinder? Possibly the contacts are worn at the start position (known issue at MB over time) and the PCM is not getting the start signal... You would have to meter the start wire on the back side of the switch to see if that is what is happening, or you can alternatively leave ignition on and trigger the starter relay manually under the hood and see if the starter turns every time...
Are there any codes present when it fails to start?
A friend of mine is a MB tech, so the above responses are copied from his email to me... Hope that helps.
Hmm, Here are my stabs in the dark.
immobilizer code sync issue (have they looked at the antenna that goes around the key cylinder that senses the transponder or the SKREEM module).
Try unlocking the car with the drivers door cylinder, cycle the ignition key on for 90 seconds, then off, then on again for 90,then off, then on again for 90,then off, then on again for 90, then off, then on again for 90, then off for five seconds and then remove the key push the lock button twice and then unlock twice and start the car. This is the Mercedes key sync procedure... If that works, you are a having a syncing issue caused most likely by a defective key or the key cylinder antenna... It's really rare the SKREEM module goes defective, but it is possible...
Have they looked at replacing the ignition cylinder? Possibly the contacts are worn at the start position (known issue at MB over time) and the PCM is not getting the start signal... You would have to meter the start wire on the back side of the switch to see if that is what is happening, or you can alternatively leave ignition on and trigger the starter relay manually under the hood and see if the starter turns every time...
Are there any codes present when it fails to start?
A friend of mine is a MB tech, so the above responses are copied from his email to me... Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by Midwest Muscle
Extensive, I wouldn't want to kick someone when they're down, and I'm sorry you are going through all this grief. Hopefully it gets solved soon enough, but also that you learned a few things (even if it was painful).
- Never lease a car for longer than the 3 yr/36k warranty period. Leasing itself is rarely wise, especially outside of factory warranty.
- I hope you haven't been paying $700 a month (for 48 months) on a Crossfire. That's a ton of money ... Please tell me I read that wrong. :-)
Mike
- Never lease a car for longer than the 3 yr/36k warranty period. Leasing itself is rarely wise, especially outside of factory warranty.
- I hope you haven't been paying $700 a month (for 48 months) on a Crossfire. That's a ton of money ... Please tell me I read that wrong. :-)
Mike
It was a 48 Month lease... The total of 17 months lease payment left... I have had it for about 9 months.. and the owner gave me $2,500 cash + the security deposit...
so total of $3,200 cash in hand...
take the 17 months I have on the lease times it by $700.
= $11,900 - $3,200 i got = $8,700 over 17 months = $511 tax in...
which would have been great on such a short time lease... when i got the car it only had 13,000 miles on it... and it was an old man who owned it... + I got a chrysler full inspection done to make sure everything was perfect...
IN THE 9 MONTHS I HAVE OWNED THE CAR...
1) HIT AND RUN WHILE AT DINNER FRONT FENDER SMASHED IN...
2) DRIVING ON HIGHWAY OIL PAN FLY'S OFF OLD CAR IN FRONT OF ME AND SMASHES FRONT BUMPER AND GRILL...
3) 2 OF MY 20" TIRES EXPLODE ON THE HIGHWAY...
4) SPEEDING TICKET THAT I HAVE TO GO TO COURT AND MIGHT LOSE MY PERMIT.
5) THIS ISSUE WITH THE "NO START"...
THEY SHOULD MAKE A MOVIE ABOUT THIS CAR... WHERE THE OWNER MOVES TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WORLD TO ESCAPE ITS EVIL CURSE!
Last edited by Extensive; Oct 18, 2007 at 03:43 PM.
My last 4 leases... have cost me ZERO aside from my lease payments and insurance...
No smashes... No flat tires, Never get tickets, No issues with the car itself... ZERO...
No smashes... No flat tires, Never get tickets, No issues with the car itself... ZERO...
Originally Posted by Extensive
My last 4 leases... have cost me ZERO aside from my lease payments and insurance...
No smashes... No flat tires, Never get tickets, No issues with the car itself... ZERO...
No smashes... No flat tires, Never get tickets, No issues with the car itself... ZERO...
Mike
Originally Posted by bobs
- Personally I have had good luck with Pence Chrysler in Ashland, VA.
wow i took the battteries out of my key fob,
and the car did start, and also i let it run for like 5 min.
i did this also when i got a new key from the dealer...
also info on: reprograming after replacing batteries
NOTE: Only replace the batteries in pairs.
The system may have to be resynchronized if the transmitter
is without voltage for several minutes. To synchronize,
aim the transmitter eye at the vehicle and briefly
press either the Lock or the Unlock button twice. Within
approximately 30 seconds, insert the key in the ignition
and turn it to the ON/RUN position. The remote control
should once again be operational.
and the car did start, and also i let it run for like 5 min.
i did this also when i got a new key from the dealer...
also info on: reprograming after replacing batteries
NOTE: Only replace the batteries in pairs.
The system may have to be resynchronized if the transmitter
is without voltage for several minutes. To synchronize,
aim the transmitter eye at the vehicle and briefly
press either the Lock or the Unlock button twice. Within
approximately 30 seconds, insert the key in the ignition
and turn it to the ON/RUN position. The remote control
should once again be operational.
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