Several weeks ago, my check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer who ran the code and advised me that the problem was in the relay module in the electronics box just next to the battery. Specifically it is in the component closest to the block and it houses 5 fuses: three 15 amp, one 20 amp, and one 40 amp.

This module has something to do with the emisssions system and apparently is intermittent in nature.

I was told that I could elect to do nothing because the light would go off, but would undoubtedly come on again at some point in time. Indeed, that's exactly what happened. He also said that it was O.K. to drive since the code was not related to any internal engine function.

On the other hand, a new module would cost in the neighborhood of $270.

Now my dilemma, what to do? Does anyone reading this forum know of a salvaged vehicle which may have what I need? Or, in the alternative, does anyone know of a parts source which would have the module at a reduced price?

Any response would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Don

 

I say, since you can drive it (I know CEL are annoying) just save up some money over time and then buy either at the dealer or if you can find a reduced price unit in that time, get that one. Good thing is you are in no danger and have the time to put a little away each week. Maybe a salvage vehicle will pop up or you can look around online part stores for it.

 

http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt

Not sure if this applies to you!


This link applies to any state that requires emission testing

 

You could try these guys:

http://www.lkqonline.com/

Or, if it is the Relay Control Module, it seems that the problem, at least in a few cases, has been cold solder joints. Some one good with a soldering iron merely re-melts all of the connections on the back of the circuit board. Do a search and read more.

Since you're in Alabama, and a sterling fellow, I would volunteer to do the work. In Auburn!

And I would like to hear your exhaust!

PM me if you want...

 

Hi Don,

I have been having the same "Check Engine Light" issue. I have paid twice $100.00 to have it put on the computer.

It shows Code # PO410 For secondary Air injection relay circuit.

I have the extended warranty and it's covered. BUT they act like they really don't want to fix it. Telling me it won't hurt anything.......

What I'm seeing is terrible gas mileage now with that relay coming on and off. The problem is that the Check Engine Light is right behind the turn signal, and half the time I don't even know it's on.

I called them an put up a fit! And told them that I'm seeing 50 miles less on a tank of gas and I want it fixed!

They are going to call me this next week with an appointment and I will let you know what they replaced and the cost, if I would have had to pay it without the warranty.

 

Thanks for the responses.

GDC-SRT: We don't have emission testing in Alabama, but thanks.

Maxicon: Thanks for the offer. I'll see what my schedule holds and get back to you.

Cruiser: Fortunately, my gas mileage doesn't appear to have suffered.

The light came on yesterday, but it's off again today.....

Confused Don

 

The offer remains open. Any time.

 

A couple times I have read that [some] parts are cheaper from M-B. If you can pull the part number, or bring it to a M-B dealership, maybe you can save some money. As I understand it, most everything except the intake and cover are stock SLK320.

 

You might want clarification on the Emissions part of the problem. If an Emissions issue I think it is covered for a longer period of time than the regular warranty.

 

Yesterday, I went to the dealer to get a copy of my RO. Just like Cruiser, the code was P040....secondary air injection relay circuit. Estimated cost.............$422.48!!!!

Since I am not on Mr. Obama's bailout list, I figured I'd better come up with Plan B.

This involves cutting a small piece of electrical tape and covering up the CEL.

Viola, problem solved....

Don

 

I have found the MB dealers cheaper every time. I can usually cross the mopar number to a MB number, let me know if I can help.
Paul

 

Don, seriously, I would be willing to try it. It won't cost anything but time...

 

Don, Max is right; if it is intermittent it could certainly be lousy solder joints &, most of the time, they're rather easy to spot. A touch-up on any questionable looking ones & voila', you might just be good to go!
Also, try to re-seat every stinkin' connector on the board & make sure it's in there snug.
Intermittent problems are the toughest to find so start with the simple fixes first .

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Kurt. But, truth be told, the components are soldered to these boards by a machine and can LOOK absolutely perfect. What can happen however is the lead on the component may be too cool for the solder to wick on and while the puddle may flow on the lands of the circuit board, and look just right, the lead inside may be floating. I've repaired a number of cold joints that look like there's no way there's a problem, but were in fact trouble.

Anyway, it might be worth the time to try, and Don, if you want to take a drive to "the plains", I'd be happy to give it a shot!