Recommended Lowering Springs?
Quick question:
To lower an SRT-6, does it only simply require a change of springs? the shocks stay stock?
what about the bump stops?
Kind thanks! I am beginning my research on lowering my SRT
To lower an SRT-6, does it only simply require a change of springs? the shocks stay stock?
what about the bump stops?
Kind thanks! I am beginning my research on lowering my SRT
If you want a beautiful drop and real nice ride on the street get the Eibach's. If you want to out run Suby's and Evo's at the track (Evo's are harder than Suby's) don't bother with them. In my humble opinion. It all depends on your goal, or what's more important to you.
Les
Les
I need to get up to date then. I think you can still get Intrax, Sprint and Votland. The K&W's are the best but cost soooooo much. I don't know if that little extra will be worth the extra $$ for most Crossfire owners. Don't forget to look at Mercedes V-8 springs. (they may need cutting)
Les
Les
Originally Posted by velociabstract
... Don't forget to look at Mercedes V-8 springs. (they may need cutting)
Les
Les
Would you mind explaning this a bit further... or post a link up? Which V8's should we be looking at?
Form all I've read the eibachs are softer than the stock srt springs... and the H&R are stiffer. I know the H&R sway bars make a HUGE difference... much more solid and flat through the turns.
I'm running the cut SRT-6 springs... according to Les, they're faster around a track than the Eibachs. Works for me, as they've never disappointed me when I leaned on them the most.
How much of a PITA is the rear bar to install? I recently installed the AMG swaybar up front (28mm) and noticed a significant increase in stiffness over the 25mm stock N/A unit. H&R sways are 30mm front and 20mm rear...
I'd REALLY like to get a 20mm rear one thrown on...
Originally Posted by 04Fire
I know the H&R sway bars make a HUGE difference... much more solid and flat through the turns.
I'd REALLY like to get a 20mm rear one thrown on...
Originally Posted by 04Fire
Les,
Would you mind explaning this a bit further... or post a link up? Which V8's should we be looking at?
Form all I've read the eibachs are softer than the stock srt springs... and the H&R are stiffer. I know the H&R sway bars make a HUGE difference... much more solid and flat through the turns.
Would you mind explaning this a bit further... or post a link up? Which V8's should we be looking at?
Form all I've read the eibachs are softer than the stock srt springs... and the H&R are stiffer. I know the H&R sway bars make a HUGE difference... much more solid and flat through the turns.
Les
Originally Posted by JHM2K
How much of a PITA is the rear bar to install? I recently installed the AMG swaybar up front (28mm) and noticed a significant increase in stiffness over the 25mm stock N/A unit. H&R sways are 30mm front and 20mm rear...
I'd REALLY like to get a 20mm rear one thrown on...
I'd REALLY like to get a 20mm rear one thrown on...
Originally Posted by velociabstract
Can't explain. Rob was looking at some V-8 springs for me. I would guess from a CLK 420. When I was searching for my bushings the parts website had a note, fits R170 and 33 other models, or something like that. So the bushings are the same for lots of models and maybe the entire A-arm. Ask Rudy what he puts in the V-8 converted Crossfires.
Les
Les
I am thinking of lowering kit, but i dont know if my existing tires will be ok. 285 35 19 rear and 225x40x18 fronts. Can you tell me of a good priced set, with no issues or minimal, thanks kac
Your tire sizes are fine. If you want a softer ride the Eibachs will give you that. I took a Eibach Pro Kit off my SRT6 as I didn't think it could handle emergency maneuvering above 75 mph; Just way too much sway for me. I went back to the OEM springs. I have H&R springs, shocks and sway bars on my Limited and it rides stiff, (lowered about 1.4 inches) but I am much more comfortable driving that car at speed in curves and high speed maneuvering. There is a huge difference. So why are you lowering the car?? You have to have a definitive answer to that and then live with the consequences and if you lower it you must find a way to adjust the camber both front and rear or you will wear the inside of your tires out very quickly. The stock OEM suspension has no camber adjustment.
I have the Eibach Pro Kit springs, about a 1" drop on the stock shocks, this was done by the previous owner. I personally like the look, the 1" isn't too aggressive while also being able to get over most speed bumps and other road obstacles. The rebound could be improved, even though Eibach states these springs are fine with the stock shocks, I will go with their recommendation of moving up to a set of Bilstein B6 or similar shocks in the future.
It took about 20,000 miles to finally eat the tires due to camber, which is fine for me considering this car will get 3,000 miles a year at the most. Likely will age out before wearing out.
I put on fresh set of Falkens and had an alignment done, -2 degrees of camber is the best you are going to get without a aftermarket camber kit. Again, for the miles I do, neither me or the alignment shop was worried.
It took about 20,000 miles to finally eat the tires due to camber, which is fine for me considering this car will get 3,000 miles a year at the most. Likely will age out before wearing out.
I put on fresh set of Falkens and had an alignment done, -2 degrees of camber is the best you are going to get without a aftermarket camber kit. Again, for the miles I do, neither me or the alignment shop was worried.
I have the Eibach Pro Kit springs, about a 1" drop on the stock shocks, this was done by the previous owner. I personally like the look, the 1" isn't too aggressive while also being able to get over most speed bumps and other road obstacles. The rebound could be improved, even though Eibach states these springs are fine with the stock shocks, I will go with their recommendation of moving up to a set of Bilstein B6 or similar shocks in the future.
It took about 20,000 miles to finally eat the tires due to camber, which is fine for me considering this car will get 3,000 miles a year at the most. Likely will age out before wearing out.
I put on fresh set of Falkens and had an alignment done, -2 degrees of camber is the best you are going to get without a aftermarket camber kit. Again, for the miles I do, neither me or the alignment shop was worried.
It took about 20,000 miles to finally eat the tires due to camber, which is fine for me considering this car will get 3,000 miles a year at the most. Likely will age out before wearing out.
I put on fresh set of Falkens and had an alignment done, -2 degrees of camber is the best you are going to get without a aftermarket camber kit. Again, for the miles I do, neither me or the alignment shop was worried.


