Ok, I am going to really need your help on this. Read what happened in the first place here:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=28814

Ok, so all of the sudden all of these things happened. No freakin way they all just go on all at once. No way. They quoted me $2500 before tax!!!! They have to replace a air flow pump or sensor, something with the ESP, and the motor that runs the spoiler. What doesn't make sense is when you undo the battery and re-do it again, they all go off for about a day or so!! If they were broke they would not work at all....right?

I told him to re-callabrate the codes and he didn't know what the hell I was talking about. So then I told him to just reset the codes. He didn't know how to do that either. Told me he would call me back in the morning.

I am going to fight this like crazy!! I really need your help guys! If you know anything, please let me know. Thanks!

 

ouch...im sorry to hear that...man..uhmmm..ok..the limp home mode is defense mechanism that kicks in when there is an internal/external malfunnction in regards to the tranny..so the spoiler motor has nothing to do with that..thats like replacing an engine because gasoline fuel light came on..it makes no sense...all the esp does is lock the rear wheels, it may be connected to the tranny..but i seriously doubt it, however i dont know because this is a mercedes benz we are talking about.so this leaves us with the sensor and pump...but you know what i will call my dealership tommorow and asked the mechanic what he did exatly and instruct on how to do it....but i think u got something wrong now that is not major( because the car runs after re-instaling the battery), but its not to be overlooked beause the problem persist and and keeps coming back, i did some research on mbworld forum, and the slk is notorious for random limp modes...don't worry, im sure it wont be a super expensive repair....ur car will be fine....is ur check engine light on, if so tell the dealer to make it dissappear by deleting the code that initiate it....disconnect the battery for a longer time..on ur instrument cluster, which lights are on....???

 

Wow, thanks so much. You really are helping me a lot. I am a teacher and can not afford to spend this kind of money.

Here are the lights that come on,

The light when you shift your steering wheel in and out, the BAS/ESP light, the buckle the seat belt, and some other light that is on the bottom right hand side of the panel. It's really really strange man.

Since this is a new dealership, it sounds like they have NO clue what is going on. If you need any more information, I will check back all day today. Again, thanks so much for your help.

 

Update:

They talked to the tech guy today and he thinks if we replace the ABS control mudule that it will take care of all of the problems.

Also, the removal of the codes didn't work. Do you think I should try re-doing the ABS control module?

 

They want to try and see if replacing the ABS control module will fix the problem. What do you think?

 

Do you think it could be a ECU problem??

 

wow..that sounds expensive..do you have the powertrain warranty...ok...it was the sensors, then pump, then now abs control module....do u have an auto stick or standart, it makes a huge difference because ur car shouldnt be stuck in 2nd gear if its standart....but the abs has nothing to do with the automatic transmission....lets think about the fluid..did u change it, is ur check engine light on, which exact codes come up on the scanner..i can help you by tracking the code to come up with possicble issues...send us a list of codes that came up..what exaclty did the tech say...did he give u peice of paperabout the repair...how much does he want to charge..maybe anthony from tvt for hddp can tag in on this..after we're all owners of the same car....

 

Update:

The dealer was trying to screw me! I figured out that yes, the ABS control module is bad but that it IS causing everything else to go nuts. The dealer wanted me to spend $2000 more than I needed. The guy at the counter could not tell me anything. He also couldn't give me a guarantee that it would work. Who wants to spend $1300 and have no gurantee that it is going to work! Plus that guy was a complete jackass and wanted to charge me $200 for a diagnostics when I told him I was going some place else. They also wouldn't let me talk to the tech AND wouldn't let me see my diagnostics sheet.

I took it to a well know place here in Austin with some people that could really give me some strait up answers. They haven't done anything to the car yet, but they seem to think it is the ABS module and that it could cost me around $1300 to be replaced (including diagnostics, labor, parts, and whatever goes along...this is just an estament from my end.)

By all means, if you don't have to bring your car in to get it fixed at a dealer do NOT do it!! I will be getting a warrenty later this week.

Thanks so much for your help!

 

Sorry to hear of your problems, let us know what they find in the repair. This would probably be useful information to maintain in an online tech section. Oh and not all dealers are bad I have a very good Chrysler dealer in Melbourne FL. I would recommend them for any warranty work.

 

Steenport, keep us updated on the progress of your car, inquiring minds want to know !!!

Did you take it to AutoHaus ?

 

One more reason to invest in the extended warranty....

 

You guys are right. Not all dealers are bad. Actually, the place I took it to was surprised to hear about the horrible service. It is Maxwell Dodge off of 183 and 620 in North Austin Austin. The car sits at Lambs Automotive right now in the Arboretum area. They are great!

I will let you guys know what happens later today.

Anyone have a good place to get a warrenty?

 

You mentioned that you had unhooked the battery and that the car is in limp mode. Was browsing through the service manual and found the following. May or may not have some relevance.


BATTERY FEED
A fused, direct battery feed to the Transmission Control Module is used for continuous power. This battery voltage
is necessary to retain adaptive learn values in the Transmission Control Module’s RAM (Random Access Memory).
When the battery (B+) is disconnected, this memory is lost. When the battery (B+) is restored, this memory loss is
detected by the Transmission Control Module and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is set.
LIMP-HOME MODE
In order to ensure safe driving and to prevent further damage to the automatic transmission, the Transmission Control
Module switches to limp-home mode in the event of a critical failure. A diagnostic trouble code assigned to the
failure is stored in memory. All solenoid and regulating valves are thus de-energized. The result is that the gear last
engaged remains engaged, the modulating pressure and shift pressure rise to the maximum levels, and the torque
converter lockup clutch is disarmed. In order to preserve the operability of the vehicle to some extent, the automatic
transmission internal hydraulic control can be used to engage second gear or reverse by: stopping the vehicle,
switching off the engine, moving the shift selector lever to Park, waiting at least ten seconds, starting the engine,
and moving the shift selector lever to drive to access second gear, or moving the shift selector lever to Reverse if
needed. The limp-home function remains active until the failure is corrected or the stored diagnostic trouble code is
erased. Sporadic failures may also be reset by switching the ignition switch from Off to On.
Note: If the TCM has been replaced, the “TCM Quick Learn” procedure must be performed.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TCM QUICK LEARN
The quick learn procedure requires the use of the DRB IIIT scan tool.
This program allows the electronic transmission system to recalibrate itself. This will provide the proper transmission
operation. The quick learn procedure should be performed if any of the following procedures are performed:
² Transmission Assembly Replacement
² Transmission Control Module Replacement
² Solenoid Pack Replacement
² Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
² Valve Body Replacement or Recondition
To perform the Quick Learn Procedure, the following conditions must be met:
² The brakes must be applied
² The engine speed must be above 500 rpm
² The shift lever position must stay in Park until prompted to shift to Drive
² The shift lever position must stay in Drive after the Shift to Drive prompt until the DRBIIIT indicates the
procedure is complete
² The calculated oil temperature must be above 60° and below 200°