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Well I solved my problem, I got rid of the car. no more engine check light, ESP lights and worring what is going to go next on the car. I loved the car but it is not worth the head aches. I could understand if this was a cheap kia or other low end car. I should have listen to the reviews on the car, low bid, made on the cheap and over priced. Some one elses problem now.
Every car manufacturer builds a lemon from time-to-time. And maybe you got one. But your comment I highlighted in red is unsubstantiated. Crossfires were very well built and not by a low bid builder (Karmann). The Crossfire's downside was that they were over priced when new on the showroom floor and not promoted well by Chrysler.
Every car manufacturer builds a lemon from time-to-time. And maybe you got one. But your comment I highlighted in red is unsubstantiated. Crossfires were very well built and not by a low bid builder (Karmann). The Crossfire's downside was that they were over priced when new on the showroom floor and not promoted well by Chrysler.
wow, I don't think he fit the mold for this forum...lol.....
I have two of them I run the heck out of, and "knocking on wood" haven't experienced any of these problems so far...I have a couple of new batteries I haven't even installed yet...roadster has 33k on her, and coupe has 23k...go figure....
I keep getting bug hits on the windshields and constantly have to clean them, should I sell now?
No, but I DO wash off my bumper, mirrors and windsheild trim every evening that I drive mine - due to bug hits. Otherwise, Im afraid the bug guts will eat thru the finish and I'd have to sell MINE. If you aren't cleaning off the above items, I'd sell it while I can. (To me. For about $5000 - I"m always here to help.)
I have had the issue while driving at 70 mph and car loses engine power as in total shut down, but still have all electrical functions. Almost got cleaned out by a semi trying to cross from the speed lane to the median 4 lanes over to the right, this has occured 3 times in the last 2000 miles, car will not fire for 5 minutes after stall, then as if nothing ever happened will turn
over as if nothing occured. dealership keeps telling me nothing wrong?
I was having the same problem, changed the crank shaft position sensor, problem still happened. Pulled the RCM, re-soldered it...PERFECTION! (Well, Hubby actually did it for me, but I found the info here to fix it!) No more "Malox Moments" driving to work on the highway. Haven't had a failure in 6 months since the RCM was repaired.
Pulled the RCM, re-soldered it...PERFECTION! (Well, Hubby actually did it for me, but I found the info here to fix it!) No more "Malox Moments" driving to work on the highway. Haven't had a failure in 6 months since the RCM was repaired.
Car problems? Don't sell it! Fix it!
FYI - For those uneasy with tearing into the RCM there is now a Loaner RCM to get you back on the road ASAP. If you need help, check it out!
Hi I think i have same problem, parked mine for 2 weeks, all the lights on dash not turn over, read this thread a while back and ordered a secondhand rcm, ( after trying mine in friends crossfire and same prob, unfortunately 60 miles away so couldn't bring his back to try in mine to try ) put second hand one in same prob, must add this was for a slk mercy so although identical numbers are different, put this in friends same prob so sent back,,,,, before I buy another I thought I'd share this , , I have put power direct to solonoid on starter and car turns over but not start, Does this confirm crank sensor is ok as it turned over, ,,,, my cooling fan is on full speed I've checked all fuses, and have new batttery which turns my 2.5 diesel Nissan navara over fine so not a battery issue,,, so before I order ECM is there something else I should try first,,,, any input would be great, my car is 05 roadster ( not srt)I've had it since new only covering 32000 miles. Thank you in advance. John in uk
[i have re-soldered ECM not work for me, I have touched relay and got a click from what I believe solenoid so put cable to solenoid and it turned over not statrted but turned over. ,,,,my next step ,,,, I'm asssuming new ECM. Any input greatly appreciated. John
That tells us that the "engine control relay" output from the RCM (Relay Control Module) is not there. This means the ECU does not power up, but the Fan Module does power up, so the fan module runs the fan at full speed cuase the ECU is not telling it what to do.
This is almost always bad solder junctions on the RCM or a bad engine control relay on the RCM.
The Crank sensor has nothing to do with engaging the starter.
Being where you are, purchasing a new Crossfire RCM is your least expensive and best bet, otherwise I would recommend sending it to tighed1 for repair.
My thoughts same, if I buy new one il send mine over the pond for tighed 1. To use as spare whilst he repairs them,,, Thanks for your input. John
Originally Posted by ZERACER
Being where you are, purchasing a new Crossfire RCM is your least expensive and best bet, otherwise I would recommend sending it to tighed1 for repair.
Just a quick note:
As the cars age, we have found yet another reason for the "no crank", and it happened to my car on September 15, the coil in the Engine Control Relay went open. Has the same effect, 'cept the only fix is to replace the relay. So everyone must get the 'heads up': If reflowing the solder does not fix it, it can still be the RCM, and IF the RCM if the fan test is 'yes', it is still the RCM.
That is, you turn the key to start, don't get the starter to engage, so you let the key go back to ON and wait 30 seconds. Does the engine fan warp up to high speed?
If 'yes', then your ECR coil has probably opened, which you can verify by connecting the RCM to the wiring while OUT of it's box. Turn key to "ON", the Fuel Pump, ABS and ECR relays should close and the ABS and ECR relays should stay closed. If only ONE is/stays closed, there is your problem.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Oct 25, 2022 at 10:27 AM.
I can also see the contacts becoming stuck or corroded. I'll give mine a contact cleaner bath next time any signs of trouble.
Thx again!
CaughtInaXF
Just keep in mind, my coil went open without warning. DJ told me he's seeing a LOT of this recently. As to burned/charred relay contacts, DJ says that is often the AIr Pump relay, as it is passing considerable current and, since it goes to a motor, the inductive kick when the relay opens causes a small arc. The other relays are not subject to that as they are supplying power to non-inductive loads.
And this is where MB was smart, notice how the box has that fan in it that draws filtered air from behind the cabin filter. This means the box is slightly pressurized. This has two effects:
1) The box is slightly above atmosphere, so dust and contamination from the underhood area does not get into the box.
2) The box stays pretty cool inside even when it's HOT out.
That last item was really proven to me when I took the car two weeks ago and had to get into the box to get the car to re-start at the bank. I did not put the cover on, drove 4-5 minutes back to the house, and right away yanked the RCM out - it was pretty warm just from those few minutes of unprotected operation. I"ve pulled a lot of RCMs out of cars after being shut off, they's always been very cool to the touch, thanks to the design.
Not ALL of MBs complicated techniques are fails - the fan in the box is really effective.
Just keep in mind, my coil went open without warning. DJ told me he's seeing a LOT of this recently. As to burned/charred relay contacts, DJ says that is often the AIr Pump relay, as it is passing considerable current and, since it goes to a motor, the inductive kick when the relay opens causes a small arc. The other relays are not subject to that as they are supplying power to non-inductive loads.
And this is where MB was smart, notice how the box has that fan in it that draws filtered air from behind the cabin filter. This means the box is slightly pressurized. This has two effects:
1) The box is slightly above atmosphere, so dust and contamination from the underhood area does not get into the box.
2) The box stays pretty cool inside even when it's HOT out.
That last item was really proven to me when I took the car two weeks ago and had to get into the box to get the car to re-start at the bank. I did not put the cover on, drove 4-5 minutes back to the house, and right away yanked the RCM out - it was pretty warm just from those few minutes of unprotected operation. I"ve pulled a lot of RCMs out of cars after being shut off, they's always been very cool to the touch, thanks to the design.
Not ALL of MBs complicated techniques are fails - the fan in the box is really effective.
Also good to know why the box and board stay so cool. Much appreciated info.
Dang the air pump relay...Im not a fan (pun intended)
I will have to look again but I thought one contact looked a bit darker maybe from some arcing but it moved freely etc and car starts no problems after soldering exposed pins/joints. I left it alone
So I'll wait till next failure to look at it ...it may have been the Air Pump relay.
Air pump works great though no issues.
Mahalo!
CaughtInaXF
Re: Engine will not turn over, help
OP was mid 2010, resurrected Sept 2019... Pretty sure by now this car has been fixed, sold, scrapped, or in an accident... 