Ok, I know it's a no-no to tow a Crossfire with all four wheels down (or ANY car you CARE about, for that matter).

And I know using a dolly to elevate one end and tow it is full of dangers.

But has anyone rented (from uHaul or Ryder) a flatbed car hauler to move their XF? This car is certainly lower than my Ranger, just wondering if there are any "gotcha's" I should know about before renting a car hauler.



Yea, I did searches on "Trailering a Crossfire" and "Tow Crossfire" - but can't find anyone who has actually transported the car this way. I do KNOW that someone carries theirs around in an enclosed trailer they own - just wondering about clearance, etc. when I load and unload. (Clearance for the front facsia while going up and down the ramp is what concerns me most.)

 

I own an 18' flatbed trailer and used that to haul mine from Kansas City to Wisconsin last month. I had no problems with clearance when loading or unloading, but I used my trailer's electric winch to load so I could watch the clearance and stop if necessary.

Getting the tie-down straps on the front suspension was a little tricky due to the low clearance, but by fully turning the front wheels in each direction you can get your hand in there and fish a strap through the lower control arms.

offdutyagain just hauled his new Crossfire on a U-Haul trailer from Florida up to Michigan. Maybe he will chime in with some additional info.

 

Hey Mark, where are you headed that you can not just drive it??

 

I used a uhaul flatbed once. Worked great. Just make sure the wheels are wrapped well. And find a way to turn off the car alarm system. Mine kept going off throughout the whole drive. There is a way to deactivate it I just forget how.

 

Do you mean tied down well?

 

[quote=pizzaguy]Do you mean tied down well?[/quote

The front wheels on my trailer had a wheel net that you wrap around the tire. Then you strap it down to the trailer.

 

GOTCHA! That is what I was thinking, just wanted to be sure.

 

It is a button right on the dash, forget exactly which one, but I think it has a tow hook on it. Make sure to turn this off or as Black stated, you will set off the darn thing every mile you travel.....

 

I have a proceedure and trailer mine about everyother week for races.

Front is strapped down with hooks and 1 winch and the other side a strap with hand winch. Hooks go into the lower a frames there is a nice big opening that is way strong.

Rear is tied down with a strap over each rear lower arms NOT GETTING THE EBRAKE CABLE and the chained to the trailer bed. I hook chains, pull front and then winch the front to have a 100% solid (3 years) tow without issues. Trailer has 4 wheels brakeing with electric control so I dont over load durango. Treat others nice and stay in right lane, all is well. Woody

 

I have a 17 foot Featherlite car hauler that I'm towing my Crossfire to the track. I also bought Race Ramps that the trailer's ramps set on to extend out the gradual grade to load the car as my car has been lowered. Without the Race Ramps, I was having some rubbing. Absolutely no problems with loading. I then use Mac Custom Tie Downs that have padded straps that I put through the rims. I bought the "professional" system. I would google Macs Custom Tie Downs.

Before I bought this system, I used a friends trailer. Ended up scratching the car and it was disaster. So, I'm in love with my aluminum trailer, race ramps and tie downs. Good luck with towing.

 

I tested mine on a uhaul (the newer aluminum ones with wider tire rails) and it went on and off just fine. And my Crossfire is lowered.

The cool thing with the Uhaul - the fenders on trailer flip open so you can open the door to get out.

I ended buying a 20" enclosed car hauler from a divorce fire sale. Never used to haul cars - the guy had shelves in it and used it for bathroom re-models.

I had to add two 2X14 boards to lift the XF up enough to clear the fender wells when I open the door to get. In and out without an issue.

 

I have used the aluminum Uhaul trailer and it worked great. To make sure that I did not scrape the nose when loading or unloading I used the trailer jackstand to lift the nose of the trailer up which made for a shallower run up the ramps. I did this with trailer still hooked to the truck so it would not move and worked great. They have a super heavy duty jack stand on those trailers.

 

I rented a u-haul car carrier when I went to Florida to pick up the wife's car last month. Couple of things. I took some 2x8's with me to decrease the angle of the trailer ramps. I ended up not using them as I was able to use the dealers landscaping to help load the car. When I returned and had it in the driveway, I did stick the 2x8's under the ramp to decrease angle. I didn't experience any problem. Just take your time. AND watch opening the door when the car is on the trailer. Clearance is TIGHT.

The wheel straps worked well and I made sure to place the chains on the factory tie-down hooks. The biggest problem will be accessing the front hook. The hook is buried behind the front fascia and is difficult to reach. THEREFORE, I ended up placing the chain LOOSELY around the lower A-arm. The rear chain I placed on the tie-down hook. I felt the straps would keep the vehicle from moving forward, but the rear chain was absolutely critical to keep the car from moving backward (and possibly off the trailer).

One more thing...I used U-haul's web reservation system to try and reserve the trailer. The website quoted me a one-way rental of $405.00. I went to my local U-Haul center and they rented me the same unit for the daily rate and the total charge was less than half. True, I did have to take the trailer to Florida with me, but it is heavy enough that I didn't hear it bouncing around and the savings was substantial, not to mention trying to find a U-Haul dealer in a strange city.

By the way, I towed the unit with a Ford F-250 Supercab diesel. No problems either way. 17 hours down...17 hours back.

Hope this helps.

 

When using a dolly do you drive st on or back on..
I have the automacic trans..

 

I'd back on, make sure wheels are locked staight for towing....

 

I have a 24' enclosed trailer.....4 more inches, I could put them both in there...but, I have plenty of room with this trailer....still doing some fixing the way I want it...it is an old racecar trailer...she needs some love, and we are getting there a little bit at a time...

 

Resurecting this old thread seemed to be the most appropriate . . .

I'm going to be trailering our SRT6 up to the Tail of the Dragon meet in October. I bought an Aluma tilt model #8218 trailer that handles the car perfectly (no ramps, doors clear the fenders, etc.).

8218tilt.jpg

I've been researching the best tie down system to use on the Crossfire. As was suggested by JaneBridges in this thread, I am currently focused on a Mac's Pro Pak system that goes through the wheels (using 2" x 40" axle straps with padded sleeves - see link below).

Pro Packs - Pro Pack with 40" Through-the-Wheel Straps (8 Foot) and Direct Hook Ratchets

In the back of my mind, however, I still think maybe using the automotive frame type tie downs that would fit into the manufacturer's slots in the frame (that should be on all vehicles) might be the most secure system. The problem is I can't seem to find the slots in the frame that would accept those standardized auto tie down fittings. Are they on the Crossfire?

Maybe some of you with experience trailering a Crossfire can let me know what type of tie down system you like and would recommend?

THANKS,

 

You will get a lot of different answers on this one. My enclosed trailer was certainly set up for a longer car. I have heavy ratchet straps like used on a flat bed trailer you would find in the trucking industry. I have to use the hook type, not the flat hook, but a narrow hook. I use one strap on the front, yes 1, by running the strap thru the wheels. I repeat this in the rear. The car will not move. Very simple. They are pulling against each other. I now truck full time and police part time. So, I tie down a lot of things with these straps. Haven't failed me yet.

 

I may have a need to move an automatic about 60 miles mostly on Interstate. Has anyone ever used a tow dolly with the back end on the dolly so not to spin the trans ? I have towed a Fiero that way but is rear engine so wanted to ask before I try.

BTW nets over the wheels are nice but have seen a car move especially on corners. I always also use a fore/aft strap pulled tight to keep the car in place. I don't think you can ever have too many straps.

 

The thing that always seems a problem to me when towing backwards for any distance is the front end geometry is set to go down the road front first.