Project Log: 320 to AMG/SRT Level
I'm guesing the ML version is just stroked and maybe bored to give the 3.7L. If the crank is the same and bore, why not just pick up ML rods and maybesome bored piston to make yourself a 3.8L stroker motor. Now that would be a fun N/A build.
Originally Posted by rcompart
Teck9, I want to see a parts list price break down. I honestly think you are gonna be well into the thousands with every bolt on possible and still not reach the goal you've set for yourself. If you want to get to stock SRT6 power numbers, go with an SRT6 engine swap and be done with it. I understand that I may be somewhat partial to just putting in a more powerful engine but you have to realize that the sum of the parts does not equate to the sum of their individual HP additions. If you make it within 50HP, I'll be very surprised but I feel you're doing nothing more than setting yourself up for failure. The bar is too just too high. I wish you all the luck but you're hitting a lump of coal with a sledge hammer trying make diamonds and it just isn't gonna happen.
Originally Posted by BoilerUpXFire
Please do a base line dyno before you do anything so you can have an OEM benchmark, also I think you will be surprised with the results.
Why not ask another member, like Franc or Paul, who have put all or most of those parts on their cars what sort of numbers they are getting? I only say this because I do not want to you spend $3,000 and have buyers remorse. Yes, it will make the car faster, but will it make it feel $3,000 faster??
Edit: Good Luck!!!!
Why not ask another member, like Franc or Paul, who have put all or most of those parts on their cars what sort of numbers they are getting? I only say this because I do not want to you spend $3,000 and have buyers remorse. Yes, it will make the car faster, but will it make it feel $3,000 faster??
Edit: Good Luck!!!!
So Rudy, you,re telling me there's no possible way to get 270 rwhp out of the v320, even with all of that stuff? That's 95 rwhp. 20 from the intake is dyno proven with the 74 mm tb. See paulscrossfire.com. The ECU tune is 20 to a stock N/A. Then the all cat delete with cut-outs, Rob said about 25 from that and he's been right about everything so far. that's 65 or 70. Then the pulley-kit and some other things, I have to be close. There has to be a way, ahhhhh.....
I think what everyone has been trying to explain to you is that if one person gets 15hp dyno proven after doing a cold air intake, while another person gets 12hp proven after a set of headers that doesn't not mean that you will pick up 27hp by doing both these modifications. These things dotn add up that way. But to answer your question can you get 300whp from a mercedes 320 motor? Yes and even way beyond that if your willing to crack open that motor past simple bolt on performance.
But if your really wanting more hp you need to think bigger like custom grind cams, higher compression pistions, and custom built intake manfold, or maybe increasing the bore and stroke for more displacement.
But if your really wanting more hp you need to think bigger like custom grind cams, higher compression pistions, and custom built intake manfold, or maybe increasing the bore and stroke for more displacement.
Originally Posted by Teck-9
Ok, let's say you had a 320 motor and let's say $1,500 for example. What's the first thing you would do?
But if you're hellbent on getting mods now, do the NeedsWings dual as it can be used later if you end up putting an SRT motor in there.
Good luck
I have the DCAI and I love it. I'm in a position where I can get a good 500 engine almost for free! I can even put it in. Its just the ECU in my way. Lantana pretty much sent me step by step instructions once when I asked. I still have them. I live in MI, so I won't be driving for months, I'm very very patient and wouldn't care if it took a while to get running cuz of the ECU. If I could just get one in and all hooked up, I'd be ecstatic. That sure would be something to look at and think about while I have my coffee in the morning. Ahh so many options, and at 20 I feel like I'm running out of time to go with something. I think a 500 engine with the NW DCAI that I already have and an NW SRT all cat delete exhaust with the ECU tuned would be nasty enough for me.
Originally Posted by Teck-9
Ok, let's say you had a 320 motor and let's say $1,500 for example. What's the first thing you would do?
You are going about it the right way, but as I have tried to explain, many others have come before you and tried the EXACT SAME STUFF as you are talking about and ended up well short of 270whp. Your expectations and numbers are not realistic, hence my first comment about making sure to get your money out of the mods. And please explain to me how EVERYTHING you are talking about buying is going to transfer to a V8?
The DCAI will, as the V8 dimensions are the same, the 2 extra cylinders are in the front. the TB is in the same location as with the V6. The plugs and wires are obvious, you just gotta get 4 more of each. The pulley kit I'm sure will, as the pulley system on the 8's look the same as the 6. They're the same engine with 2 more cylinders. The exhaust is custom made by Rob @ NW and he said he can make it fit a 6 or an 8, whatever I want, The only thing that won't go over is the ECU tune, obviously. I'd love to know Lantana's progress with turboing his 500. If that's possible, then deal sealed. I've always wanted a 500.
Last edited by Teck-9; Jan 12, 2011 at 02:41 PM.
Originally Posted by Teck-9
The DCAI will, as the V8 dimensions are the same, the 2 extra cylinders are in the front. the TB is in the same location as with the V6. The plugs and wires are obvious, you just gotta get 4 more of each. The pulley kit I'm sure will, as the pulley system on the 8's look the same as the 6. They're the same engine with 2 more cylinders. The exhaust is custom made by Rob @ NW and he said he can make it fit a 6 or an 8, whatever I want, The only thing that won't go over is the ECU tune, obviously. I'd love to know Lantana's progress with turboing his 500. If that's possible, then deal sealed. I've always wanted a 500.
Was there anything not accounted for in that PM you sent me a while ago. I've got a few friends at various junkyards and while 43's and 55's are rare, I could get a good 500 for nearly free, and I will be having Rob make down-pipes, so I don't need to worry about C43 manifolds. If all that's left is a 5th mount arm, different fans, an A/C hose, and a starter cable, I should be able to get it in myself. My dad swaps truck engines on his side of the garage all the time, I've helped with a few now too. I've got all the tools for it, I should be able to do it. How has yours been running. and tell me more about the supercharger kit! What's the part # on you're radiator fans? Man, I want a 500 so bad.
Last edited by Teck-9; Jan 12, 2011 at 03:38 PM.
I am a little confused when you say you wouldn't need exhaust manifolds with the NW downpipes. Are you talking headers here? In a V8 you can use the same down pipes but you have to have the top 4 inches or so redone to match the V8 exhaust manifold which while very close to the V6 is angled slightly different. the mechanical work is pretty straight forward but don't underestimate how much work is involved. It is a lot of work!! Also without Rudy's help it will never start!
I have the system to do the programing and there was no way I was going to figure it out. Trust me when I tell you that the programming is right up there with brain surgery and rocket science if not harder. Think of it as rocket science in German. If you can't speak German it is harder than rocket science. Besides Rudy, there is only one other guy in the world that can make your engine start and has had his fun and will not do another one, and unless you want to really be yelled at or have way more money than what Rudy charges, don't even ask him.
I have the system to do the programing and there was no way I was going to figure it out. Trust me when I tell you that the programming is right up there with brain surgery and rocket science if not harder. Think of it as rocket science in German. If you can't speak German it is harder than rocket science. Besides Rudy, there is only one other guy in the world that can make your engine start and has had his fun and will not do another one, and unless you want to really be yelled at or have way more money than what Rudy charges, don't even ask him.
Last edited by LantanaTX; Jan 12, 2011 at 03:54 PM.
What does Rudy charge to program the ECU? I have the exhaust figured out. Let's just pretend I already have the 500 engine and wiring harness in my garage, I've got the exhaust together, got the radiator fans, got the starter cable lengthened and the A/C hose shortened, got the 3rd mount arm in, and my ECU is being done by Rudy. Is there anything else I have to really worry about? Remember, I have another XF, not the healthiest one around, but I can go without driving my coupe for a very long time, I am very patient. I think it would be wiser to hold off on such a project until I'm older, which is why I wanted to try and get stock SRT power in my N/A, which would hold me over. If you all say its impossible though, then I would just jump into the V8 swap. I'd love a 32AMG swap too. I wonder if the ECU situation would be the same though.
Last edited by Teck-9; Jan 12, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
Pricing is up to Rudy. I have no idea what he would charge. You need to talk to him. And be nice to him!
He is the only one that can make this run! Whatever you do, do not discount how tough the programming can be. I have seen it first hand and there are always some very tough challenges to work out. They guy who programmed my car is considered the best their is with working in developer mode and he took a month of trial and error before my car fired up. Knowing he would not do another one, I encouraged and shared info with Rudy because I felt he was the only one on this forum that had the experience and knowledge to figure it out for others that would come after me. I was right betting on Rudy as we now have a couple of 55K Crossfires terrorizing the roads.
Besides programing there is also some re-wiring that needs to happen which is best left to Rudy. The arm you are talking about is the engine mount arm that attaches to the drivers side of the engine. I believe a C43 would be perfect or you can use the Crossfire mount with the extra piece cut from any V8 mount. One a side note I have made some changes. You only need one electric fan of 12-14" mounted in front of the condenser and you will need a C43 top radiator hose, fan clutch, fan and shroud. I had some overheating issues in the middle of a hot Texas summer and this has completely solved it.
The C32 would be great but you still have to program the donor ECU to the car. Keep in mind that Mercedes has gone to great lengths to prevent the reuse of donor ECU's with things like SCN coding etc. What we are doing is using MB's own system to do something they never wanted or allowed the system to do. Therefore it is not like you just enter the system and follow the prompts for Engine Swap!
Besides programing there is also some re-wiring that needs to happen which is best left to Rudy. The arm you are talking about is the engine mount arm that attaches to the drivers side of the engine. I believe a C43 would be perfect or you can use the Crossfire mount with the extra piece cut from any V8 mount. One a side note I have made some changes. You only need one electric fan of 12-14" mounted in front of the condenser and you will need a C43 top radiator hose, fan clutch, fan and shroud. I had some overheating issues in the middle of a hot Texas summer and this has completely solved it.
The C32 would be great but you still have to program the donor ECU to the car. Keep in mind that Mercedes has gone to great lengths to prevent the reuse of donor ECU's with things like SCN coding etc. What we are doing is using MB's own system to do something they never wanted or allowed the system to do. Therefore it is not like you just enter the system and follow the prompts for Engine Swap!
Last edited by LantanaTX; Jan 12, 2011 at 05:33 PM.
Originally Posted by LantanaTX
Pricing is up to Rudy. I have no idea what he would charge. You need to talk to him. And be nice to him!
He is the only one that can make this run! Whatever you do, do not discount how tough the programming can be. I have seen it first hand and there are always some very tough challenges to work out. They guy who programmed my car is considered the best their is with working in developer mode and he took a month of trial and error before my car fired up. Knowing he would not do another one, I encouraged and shared info with Rudy because I felt he was the only one on this forum that had the experience and knowledge to figure it out for others that would come after me. I was right betting on Rudy as we now have a couple of 55K Crossfires terrorizing the roads.
Besides programing there is also some re-wiring that needs to happen which is best left to Rudy. The arm you are talking about is the engine mount arm that attaches to the drivers side of the engine. I believe a C43 would be perfect or you can use the Crossfire mount with the extra piece cut from any V8 mount. One a side note I have made some changes. You only need one electric fan of 12-14" mounted in front of the condenser and you will need a C43 top radiator hose, fan clutch, fan and shroud. I had some overheating issues in the middle of a hot Texas summer and this has completely solved it.
The C32 would be great but you still have to program the donor ECU to the car. Keep in mind that Mercedes has gone to great lengths to prevent the reuse of donor ECU's with things like SCN coding etc. What we are doing is using MB's own system to do something they never wanted or allowed the system to do. Therefore it is not like you just enter the system and follow the prompts for Engine Swap!
Besides programing there is also some re-wiring that needs to happen which is best left to Rudy. The arm you are talking about is the engine mount arm that attaches to the drivers side of the engine. I believe a C43 would be perfect or you can use the Crossfire mount with the extra piece cut from any V8 mount. One a side note I have made some changes. You only need one electric fan of 12-14" mounted in front of the condenser and you will need a C43 top radiator hose, fan clutch, fan and shroud. I had some overheating issues in the middle of a hot Texas summer and this has completely solved it.
The C32 would be great but you still have to program the donor ECU to the car. Keep in mind that Mercedes has gone to great lengths to prevent the reuse of donor ECU's with things like SCN coding etc. What we are doing is using MB's own system to do something they never wanted or allowed the system to do. Therefore it is not like you just enter the system and follow the prompts for Engine Swap!
I was hoping I could download that off of I-Tunes later tonight.
Come on Accelerated Industries get with the program, Plug and Play!
All kidding aside, the knowledge and skills Rudy has stretched well beyond Crossfiredom. Just google Accelerated Industries and see what he has done. Rudy can set his price because he is the only show in town.
Come on Accelerated Industries get with the program, Plug and Play!
All kidding aside, the knowledge and skills Rudy has stretched well beyond Crossfiredom. Just google Accelerated Industries and see what he has done. Rudy can set his price because he is the only show in town.
honestly your bouncing in so many directions what you will end up with is a pile of parts and a car that doesnt run. you need direction. if you want a 300 hp n/a or s/c 3.2 or n/a v8 or s/c v8 decide and stay on track.
dont buy anything until the build list is complete with what you want to accomplish. if time isnt a factor then dont let indecision be a factor either. personally if you can get the n/a v8 parts for nil thats the route i would go. it will be fast enought to put you in an early grave and still put your ride in an elite class.
remember the engine is only 1 part of a fast agile SAFE car. suspension, braking, trans, driveline and rear diff all have to be considered as future upgrades to allow the engine to perform at its peak
dont buy anything until the build list is complete with what you want to accomplish. if time isnt a factor then dont let indecision be a factor either. personally if you can get the n/a v8 parts for nil thats the route i would go. it will be fast enought to put you in an early grave and still put your ride in an elite class.
remember the engine is only 1 part of a fast agile SAFE car. suspension, braking, trans, driveline and rear diff all have to be considered as future upgrades to allow the engine to perform at its peak
Originally Posted by 32krazy!
honestly your bouncing in so many directions what you will end up with is a pile of parts and a car that doesnt run. you need direction. if you want a 300 hp n/a or s/c 3.2 or n/a v8 or s/c v8 decide and stay on track.
dont buy anything until the build list is complete with what you want to accomplish. if time isnt a factor then dont let indecision be a factor either. personally if you can get the n/a v8 parts for nil thats the route i would go. it will be fast enought to put you in an early grave and still put your ride in an elite class.
remember the engine is only 1 part of a fast agile SAFE car. suspension, braking, trans, driveline and rear diff all have to be considered as future upgrades to allow the engine to perform at its peak
dont buy anything until the build list is complete with what you want to accomplish. if time isnt a factor then dont let indecision be a factor either. personally if you can get the n/a v8 parts for nil thats the route i would go. it will be fast enought to put you in an early grave and still put your ride in an elite class.
remember the engine is only 1 part of a fast agile SAFE car. suspension, braking, trans, driveline and rear diff all have to be considered as future upgrades to allow the engine to perform at its peak


