Crossfire some times not starting
Hey just having a problem with my crossfire and wondering if anyone has had the same experience with my problem cold start the engine is fine! I have done some research but it does not seem to tick any boxes 100% to what I am having. Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter engine sounds fine I can hear the injectors clicking the Battery is brand new , driving there is no backfiring so the spark plugs are fine and also new that I think also rules out for the fuel pump due to no back firing correct me if I'm wrong it has also stalled a few times just turned off when to a stop mabye it could be the fuel filter? Also the engine light comes on if it does not start I have recently bought a code scanner still in the mail I might try that first before I take it to a mechanic , it's is a 2004 model limited with 80k miles so there could be a few things needing to be replaced I would love some input to what this problem be even a bad sensor over heating issue? The engine temp is normal radiator is at normal levels that's all I can think of to give you guys a idea what the proble could be , I was driving it quite hard when I first encountered the problem. Thanks
Hey just having a problem with my crossfire and wondering if anyone has had the same experience with my problem cold start the engine is fine! I have done some research but it does not seem to tick any boxes 100% to what I am having. Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter engine sounds fine I can hear the injectors clicking the Battery is brand new , driving there is no backfiring so the spark plugs are fine and also new that I think also rules out for the fuel pump due to no back firing correct me if I'm wrong it has also stalled a few times just turned off when to a stop mabye it could be the fuel filter? Also the engine light comes on if it does not start I have recently bought a code scanner still in the mail I might try that first before I take it to a mechanic , it's is a 2004 model limited with 80k miles so there could be a few things needing to be replaced I would love some input to what this problem be even a bad sensor over heating issue? The engine temp is normal radiator is at normal levels that's all I can think of to give you guys a idea what the proble could be , I was driving it quite hard when I first encountered the problem. Thanks
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-start.html
RL
I might be mistaken here but I think the RCM issue will cause a “no crank” problem.
It sounds like the OP’s problem is it will crank but not start. From some of the other items mentioned it sounds more like a CPS to me.
I have also seen fuel pumps cause no starts when warm but normally you will also have misfires or complaints of poor performance under heavy acceleration when you have fuel pump problems.
It sounds like the OP’s problem is it will crank but not start. From some of the other items mentioned it sounds more like a CPS to me.
I have also seen fuel pumps cause no starts when warm but normally you will also have misfires or complaints of poor performance under heavy acceleration when you have fuel pump problems.
I might be mistaken here but I think the RCM issue will cause a “no crank” problem.
It sounds like the OP’s problem is it will crank but not start. From some of the other items mentioned it sounds more like a CPS to me.
I have also seen fuel pumps cause no starts when warm but normally you will also have misfires or complaints of poor performance under heavy acceleration when you have fuel pump problems.
It sounds like the OP’s problem is it will crank but not start. From some of the other items mentioned it sounds more like a CPS to me.
I have also seen fuel pumps cause no starts when warm but normally you will also have misfires or complaints of poor performance under heavy acceleration when you have fuel pump problems.
From the original post:
"Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter..."
It took my a couple of reads of the post to see that since the post is missing some punctuation and it all kind of runs together.
That being said, the CPS is where I would move next but only after double checking the battery posts for ANY corrosion and to make sure the connections at the battery are good and tight. I had the problem of my car dieing when coming to a stop. I checked the battery connections and they seemed tight, but I wiggled them a little harder and the positive cable moved. Got about 8 turns on the positive cable clamp nut and about 5 on the negative. It has never died again.
Good point on the CPS though - definitely worth checking if problems persist.
RL
Keep us posted
RL
Brandon - the OP mentions in his original post that the car will not crank.
From the original post:
"Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter..."
It took my a couple of reads of the post to see that since the post is missing some punctuation and it all kind of runs together.
That being said, the CPS is where I would move next but only after double checking the battery posts for ANY corrosion and to make sure the connections at the battery are good and tight. I had the problem of my car dieing when coming to a stop. I checked the battery connections and they seemed tight, but I wiggled them a little harder and the positive cable moved. Got about 8 turns on the positive cable clamp nut and about 5 on the negative. It has never died again.
Good point on the CPS though - definitely worth checking if problems persist.
RL
From the original post:
"Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter..."
It took my a couple of reads of the post to see that since the post is missing some punctuation and it all kind of runs together.
That being said, the CPS is where I would move next but only after double checking the battery posts for ANY corrosion and to make sure the connections at the battery are good and tight. I had the problem of my car dieing when coming to a stop. I checked the battery connections and they seemed tight, but I wiggled them a little harder and the positive cable moved. Got about 8 turns on the positive cable clamp nut and about 5 on the negative. It has never died again.
Good point on the CPS though - definitely worth checking if problems persist.
RL
He says he hears the injectors, he's inside the car and he hears the injectors? I can only hear the injectors when I have the hood up and I am outside the car and leaning into the engine bay.
Confusing wording here, crank means a different thing to different people, crank means the car turns over but might not start to me. Kick over means crank to me, but not start.
Brandon - the OP mentions in his original post that the car will not crank.
From the original post:
"Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter..."
It took my a couple of reads of the post to see that since the post is missing some punctuation and it all kind of runs together.
That being said, the CPS is where I would move next but only after double checking the battery posts for ANY corrosion and to make sure the connections at the battery are good and tight. I had the problem of my car dieing when coming to a stop. I checked the battery connections and they seemed tight, but I wiggled them a little harder and the positive cable moved. Got about 8 turns on the positive cable clamp nut and about 5 on the negative. It has never died again.
Good point on the CPS though - definitely worth checking if problems persist.
RL
From the original post:
"Say I drive up the street turn it off then restart the engine it may not kick over the starter..."
It took my a couple of reads of the post to see that since the post is missing some punctuation and it all kind of runs together.
That being said, the CPS is where I would move next but only after double checking the battery posts for ANY corrosion and to make sure the connections at the battery are good and tight. I had the problem of my car dieing when coming to a stop. I checked the battery connections and they seemed tight, but I wiggled them a little harder and the positive cable moved. Got about 8 turns on the positive cable clamp nut and about 5 on the negative. It has never died again.
Good point on the CPS though - definitely worth checking if problems persist.
RL
I took "may not kick over the starter engine sounds fine " as the starter motor is turning the engine over but it did not fire.
Either way between the two suggestions I think the OP has something to go on.
Hope it helps.
By the way is my understanding of the RCM issue correct, is that only a "no crank" issue?
Thanks!
Um yeah! kind of...
I took "may not kick over the starter engine sounds fine " as the starter motor is turning the engine over but it did not fire.
Either way between the two suggestions I think the OP has something to go on.
Hope it helps.
By the way is my understanding of the RCM issue correct, is that only a "no crank" issue?
Thanks!
I took "may not kick over the starter engine sounds fine " as the starter motor is turning the engine over but it did not fire.
Either way between the two suggestions I think the OP has something to go on.
Hope it helps.
By the way is my understanding of the RCM issue correct, is that only a "no crank" issue?
Thanks!
The CPS issue is normally the car will die and then it will crank and not start. With this one, you probably aren't going anywhere until the CPS is replaced. A lot of owners will carry a spare CPS and the tools to replace it in the trunk ... just in case.
RL
Hi sorry for the confusions and the way I word things (using a iphone aswell) to be clear the starter motor does work(crank)also sorry late reply to my thread I live in Australia and I have been quite busy and able to jump on now at 4am.
Thanks for all the help guys so it more sounds like the cps issue? If I can ask what does CPS stands for and OP? I still will check the RCM it was way too hot to even sit in a car today then try and fix one so ill keep you posted about that , haha about the injectors yes I had my head near the engine bay while a friend turned the key
Thanks for all the help guys so it more sounds like the cps issue? If I can ask what does CPS stands for and OP? I still will check the RCM it was way too hot to even sit in a car today then try and fix one so ill keep you posted about that , haha about the injectors yes I had my head near the engine bay while a friend turned the key
Hi sorry for the confusions and the way I word things (using a iphone aswell) to be clear the starter motor does work(crank)also sorry late reply to my thread I live in Australia and I have been quite busy and able to jump on now at 4am.
Thanks for all the help guys so it more sounds like the cps issue? If I can ask what does CPS stands for and OP? I still will check the RCM it was way too hot to even sit in a car today then try and fix one so ill keep you posted about that , haha about the injectors yes I had my head near the engine bay while a friend turned the key
Thanks for all the help guys so it more sounds like the cps issue? If I can ask what does CPS stands for and OP? I still will check the RCM it was way too hot to even sit in a car today then try and fix one so ill keep you posted about that , haha about the injectors yes I had my head near the engine bay while a friend turned the key
Yes - if your car with turn over (crank) and not start, the most likely culprit would be the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). Here is a good thread that has a nice set of instructions you can print (see post #2) as well as some helpful hints from other members.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...placement.html
When you go to purchase the CPS, make sure you get the BOSCH product. Other members have found that other brands are a bit long and don't work as expected. The attached instructions in post #2 of the above thread has the Bosch part number as well as the Mercedes part number to help you get the right part. I think the Mercedes part (if you have to go that route) will be a Bosch part as well.
And, OP = Original Poster
Enjoy and good luck!!
RL
EDIT: Just curious - have you checked the car (or had a shop check) to see if it has any stored codes in the computer. That might shed some light on the problem you are having. If you haven't received the code scanner you ordered, some auto parts stores will get the codes for you for free (at least some here in the States do).
Last edited by RL67037; Jan 17, 2013 at 12:37 PM.
Thanks RL for your time and the link! I am certain now that it must be the CPS I have read a lot of times that the cps is a main problem with the crossfires I just never knew what exactly the cps did or could cause. Yes still waiting on the code scanner I never really thought about taking it to a local shop crossfires are quite rare here and mainly people here drive either ford or Holden(chev) and I would think I would need to take it to a Chrysler or Merc shop for the right software to be scanned. I will order a new cps and see how it runs from there ill let you know how it goes thanks a lot!
Again, you want a BOSCH CPS - none else. We have seen people chase their tails over a new but not quite right CPS.
Also, reflowing the solder on the RCB every 2 or 3 years is not a bad idea - you can avoid trouble by doing that. Same goes for keeping battery terminals clean and tight!
Also, reflowing the solder on the RCB every 2 or 3 years is not a bad idea - you can avoid trouble by doing that. Same goes for keeping battery terminals clean and tight!
Ok guys I just scanned my car I got the obd2 scanner!! I got the code p0325 now it's something to do with the cps is said next to the code when I put the code into google to search it came up with knock sensor as well so I'm sort of lost is the knock sensor the same as the cps? I've ordered a new Bosch cps should be coming soon I just hope I don't have a knock in the engine
I don't know, the CPS codes are very specific. While the CPS is often a failure item (and about the easiest to change) I kinda think there is something else wrong.
Just keep the "bad" CPS, 'cause if the CPS does not help, then it was not bad and you have a good spare! As I read the thread, I'm now thinking maybe it is the CPS.
Just don't know... But again, the CPS is a real simple, cheap item that is KNOWN to cause problems. My car is at 85,000 and I have had no problems, but I STILL carry a new BOSCH CPS in the trunk.
Just keep the "bad" CPS, 'cause if the CPS does not help, then it was not bad and you have a good spare! As I read the thread, I'm now thinking maybe it is the CPS.
Just don't know... But again, the CPS is a real simple, cheap item that is KNOWN to cause problems. My car is at 85,000 and I have had no problems, but I STILL carry a new BOSCH CPS in the trunk.
Ok guys I just scanned my car I got the obd2 scanner!! I got the code p0325 now it's something to do with the cps is said next to the code when I put the code into google to search it came up with knock sensor as well so I'm sort of lost is the knock sensor the same as the cps? I've ordered a new Bosch cps should be coming soon I just hope I don't have a knock in the engine
"this DTC will not turn on the MIL and this DTC will have little to no effect on the drivability of the engine."
P0325 scan code what is this? - Yahoo! Answers
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