CM

When you took your car in, did you just tell them you wanted the transmission fluid changed or did you tell them you were having problems with it shifting? The reason I ask is because I'm curious if the shop knew to look for a problem and if they took the time to pull any codes from the car's computer? In an earlier post (#4), you say "No error codes or nothing". Where are you expecting to see an error code? Or, are you making reference to the "check engine" light not lighting up? When I took my car into the dealer and told them of the problems I was having, the pulled a code from the computer that told them I had an "improper gear ratio", so that told me that they at least checked the computer. Do you know if your dealership pulled any codes? That may tell them and us something.

RL

 

You are correct, I assumed that since there was no check engine light that there would be no codes? I was wrong I take it? Can I have the codes checked at a parts store instead of paying the dealership another $100?

 

I would think so. Around here (middle of Kansas), you can take a car into an Autozone and they'll pull the codes for free. You might take a shot at the shop that recently did the work for you, also. Since they recently did work for you, they might be willing to do it. Either way, post the codes they find (if any).

The reason I am wondering if there are codes is because some owners have had trouble with a connector plate (at least I think that's the name of the part). They have reported that the computer will store a code but the CEL (check engine light) won't light.

RL

 

I'll go in and check. I drove it around today in "W" and no issues at all, runs like a champ. It seems like everytime it's in 1st gear it never want's to leave 2nd. I'll go by autozone tonight and see if there are any codes.

Thanks

 

You may need the dealers star system to look for codes.

 

Driving around all day like crazy in "W" and not 1 single issue. I switch over to "S" tomorrow and see what happens. Weird huh??? lol

 

I don't know if there are any codes that can be accessed else where but if these are from the OBDII port it mat be worth your while to purchase an OBDII reader from Harbor Freight,a decent one can be found if you look for their sales for less than $100. For those that pay attention, yes I get many of my tools from HF, I live only a short drive from one. I hope that you get your issue sorted out, I hate to see a car on the shelf.

 

The Ultragauge for about $80 shipped works for me! Not only can I read the codes, but I can watch about 20 of over 55 sensors as I drive down the road...

 

I like that. I;m not familiar with it, does it erase the codes if needed and where did you purchase it?

 

Yes, it does :

UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool

( I wouldn't leave home without mine )

 

Well I'm getting one today. Looks like a handy (yet cheap) tool that can be used for every car I have. Thanks for the great info so far everyone. I'll keep updating as things arrise as I'm paying very close attention to the way I drive and what I'm doing to casue the issue. Coming to work this AM the car drove like new (still in "W", running late).

I'll keep everyone posted and I'll order the code reader and see if there are any.

 

Hopefully we'll know more after you are able to pull the codes, but I was thinking about you driving it in the "W" mode. The owners manual explains the "S" and "W" switch in detail, but to make it easy on the brain cells I have left, I consider the letters to mean "Summer" and "Winter". With the switch in "W", the car starts off in 2nd gear (like you would if you were on snow/ice and driving a standard). I wonder if the car is getting a hiccup when it shifts from 1st to 2nd? And when starting in 2nd (in "W" mode) it doesn't have that problem. Maybe some of the better transmission folks will chime in and tell me where my thinking is flawed, but it does make me curious.

RL

 

The Ultragauge comes with a window mount, I wish I had a picture of mine, but anyway, I have it stuck to the windsheild over on the left, and run the cable down the side of the dash, just tucking it into the trim and plugged it into the diagnostic connector.

Mine is set to display IAT, Engine Temp, RPM, MAP and two other sensors I cant even remember!

It's not only a useful tool for when a code is set, it's really a fun and very cheap toy!

 

Yes this is what seems to be giving me issues. Everytime I start in "1st" I have nothing but issues but starting in "2nd (W)" I can't make the issue arrise and that is what is baffeling me.

 

Well ordered the code reader today and hopefully that will result in something but I have narrowed it down about as much as possible. When starting in 2nd I can do just about anything and drive any way I like with NO issues what so ever. Every time the car starts off in 1st gear I have shifting issues. It's not an every time thing but about a 70% time thing. I have also started to notice that whistle coming from underneath more but only when its in gear, it doesn't do it in "P" or "N". Its a very high pitched whistle kind of like a small hole in a hose that whistles under pressure.

I'm about half tempted to take it in but have a few hundred more mile to tack on before my warranty kicks in (which it probably won't be covered anyways...lol).

As always if anyone has an epiphany and somthing pops into your head let me know.....

 

Have you been doing all of your driving for these tests in "D" or have you been mixing it up by using the "auto-stick" as well?

RL

 

Just in "D" the whole time. I tried the auto stick thing once and couldn't even get out of 1st gear (the 1 wouldn't change when I tried shifting).

 

When the car is sitting still and running, and in auto-stick mode, when you push the stick to the right, will the display cycle through the numbers? I don't know what this will tell me (or anyone) but I checked mine today and with every push to the right, the numbers went 1 thru 4 then "D". I guess I'm curious if the shifting mechanism reacts differently when sitting still as opposed to moving and actually trying to shift.

RL

 

It runs through all the gear just like you said. Put in the "S" and clicked through 1-2-3-4-D and the same with the "W" switched on. ?!?!?!?!?!? (beating my head on a rock)
Scan tool should be here next week and maybe there is a code stored in there (fingers crossed).

O and HAPPY FRIDAY!!!

 

I test drove an SRT Roadster once that did that. I then put it back in P then down to D (to be sure it was in Auto mode) and drove off.
At about 40mph, I knocked it into manual mode and it displayed 4.

I knocked it left, and it went to 3, I knocked it right and it stayed in 3.
This told me that either the "+" side of the switch was bad, a wire in a connector was loose/corroded/broken or the switch assembly was out of alignment with the shift (not sure if that is possible, but I am assuming it would be easily fixed and not a TCM problem).