I had the negative disconnected for around 30 mins whilst doing the swap. Is it worth disconnecting both positive and negative?
Ill give it a shot

Thanks

 

Right... Fitted new MAF and this cleared the CEL. Battery was disconnected fully for around 30 mins yesterday.
The acceleration is 'always' delayed but it's definitely in limp mode with no power, and the delay has happened a couple of times.
Garage plugged back into the car and came across this..
The 'Acceleration' was in the 'minus' and when pressing the Gas Pedal, it went further into the -numbers. Eg: idle at -20 and then when pressed it's goes -40, -50 etc. He said it should be in the + going up.
So it's not 'Advancing my Timing' ?
That make sense to anyone?
Could this be the TPS or the Pedal Assembly?
Both seem hard to get hold of in the UK

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

No clue anymore? Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

Fitting a new MAF sensor will not clear the CEL, that has to be done with the code reader. The light may go out but the code is not cleared.
What was the sensor number? Or did you replace the whole MAF assembly, if so what was that number?
Are there any new codes set? The CEL may not be on but there are still codes set.

 

The light went out and I took it back down and when he plugged it up a 'presume' he cleared it. I could be mistaken then but after telling him the fault is still there, I'm sure he did go to clear it.
I used the Bosch part number off the MAF unit itself, think it started 0280 or something? But only the sensor was replaced (didn't look identical either to the original) but the bloke in the shop said it's the same and a bosh part and everything is in the same place etc.
Should I have replaced the while unit?
The mechanic said it's no advancing my timing so he thinks maybe the TPS or pedal assembly

Thank you for the help

 

The part you replaced and the part you purchased should have the same number on them and they should look the same. Do you still have the old part? If so compare them.

 

I also have an 04' Crossfire with about the same mileage. Mine is an automatic. I had the same symptoms happen to me last month. The difference was that I had the P0123 code. After doing research and listening to the suggestions of wise forum members, I replaced the throttle body which fixed the issue for me. My thread can be found here if it's of any help to you.

 

Hi, thank you for your advice and like to your thread. Today I ordered a TPS and a pedal Assembly. I wish I had considered the Throttle Body first as may have saved money but I'm no mechanic lol.
If this doesn't fix it then I will definitely order a new TB. My delay isn't as bad now since changing the MAF Sensor but it just seems to lack power so much

Again, thank you for the help and advice it's appreciated

 

Can you link to the TPS that you ordered? I ask because from the research I've done, you can't replace just the TPS. The TPS is part of the throttle body. You have to replace the entire throttle body. And if you end up going that route, you might aswell upgrade to the 74mm throttle body. It's one of the most common upgrades on the forum. I ended up purchasing a used mercedes throttle body for $40 + $20 shipping. I had plans to try and swap it out myself using this guide here. But I ended up letting my mechanic do it while I already had it in the shop. Cost me $130 labor to have it swapped out. Should have done it myself, but ah well, it is done now.

If you end up needing it:
74mm TB upgrade guide - Make sure it says 113 141 0125 on it
74mm TB
http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-10-MERCEDES-MASS-AIR-FLOW-SENSOR-METER-MAF-S500-S430-1130940048-0280217810-/300854699060?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460c566434&vxp=mtrhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-W202-W203-W204-NEW-GENUINE-Throttle-Housing-O-Ring-305-997-03-45-/151161574603?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2331ee94cb&vxp=mtr

 

Iv not looked into the 74mm upgrade. Does it make much difference? I will read up on that shortly.
The TPS I have ordered is the sensor attached to the pedal assembly (this is where I realise I'm thick and that's not called a TPS?) lol.
It's the one on the pedal assembly itself what people plug the spring booster in to.

I now think I may have wasted money on the pedal assembly and MAF sensor and it was probably the Throttle Body all along

 

Possibly.
In a 'drive-by-wire' throttle system ( most modern cars have gone to this ),
your foot tells the pedal what it wants, the pedal tells the PTCM ( Power Train Control Module ) what you did,
the PTCM knows the throttle body's current position by the sensor incorporated into it, and either tells the TB motor to open it or close it.
bada-bing, bada-boom.

 

I bought a new Cuda in '71, at 12,200 miles it had the same thing. it was so bad, I didn't trust it when I pulled out in traffic. I put on a new carb, no help. I finally figured out it must have had a factory vacuum leak which burnt a valve. So i had a valve job at 12,400 miles with no help from the manufacturer. Fixed the problem.

I'm not saying it's a bad valve, but I'd put a dollar bill against the tail pipe and see if it was sucked back instead of a flutter. If it does, then a compression check might be in order.

Dave

 

This forum is definitely more useful than the garages out there lol.
It's a lovely car too and don't really have the money to be buying anything new etc so want this sorted lol.
As soon as I have fitted the assembly when it comes, regardless of the result, I will post the outcome.
If not, on to the TB lol

 

Oh thanks, never heard or thought of trying that.
So basically ill just be looking for what happens with the note and a flutter is obviously standard and what I want to be hoping for lol

Cheers

 

Yes, if the note sucks back, and you get a black ring on it, and you'll know when it's sucking hard, it could indicate a bad valve, then a compression check would confirm it. Hold the dollar bill (or note) at the top of the tail pipe and let it dangle, it should flutter and not suck back up against the pipe.

It's an old backyard mechanic way of checking an engine, but I've used it a lot over the years in checking out used cars, etc.

Dave

 

Right, tried the 'note' trick and it isn't sucking it back. It's just fluttering.
The car lacks power, and just doesn't want to accelerate like it should at all.
This may sound daft but it sounds 'whiney' if that makes sense, and no, unfortunately it's not an SRT lol.

Im hoping the new pedal assembly will fix it, if not then a new TB.
If not... It couldn't be anything to do with the CAT or something in the gearbox like flywheel etc could it?
All that probably sounds dumb but I'm just expecting the worst

Thanks again

 

Your cheapest method to find the problem is to buy a code reader. Ultra Gage is cheap and is capable of more things as well.
Or simply get the codes read again, clear what codes show up and take it for a short trip and read the codes again.
Too many times the code is sitting there ready to be read and the cars owner is basically asking others to read a crystal ball.

 

Right, new Pedal Assembly Fitted today, not fixed the problem

Will be running to the garage after work and having the clear any fault codes, I will then drive it and if any new ones are picked up, they should be able to identify it.

After reconnecting the battery today (removed when changing pedal assembly), the ESP/BAS light was showing, but then after 1 min of driving it went off again. The car still wont accelerate like it should though so I believe I am an experiencing Limp Mode.

After having it diagnosed again later, my next step may be to buy another Throttle Body



Ill keep you all informed and thanks again

 

Limp mode is when the car uses only one gear, second and the car is limited to about 40mph.
It is a transmission fault and does this to allow the car to be moved while causing no damage to the transmission. It is most often caused by a part in the electrical/valve body plate assembly.

 

Cant be Limp Mode then. My XFire is manual, its just lacking power and if I do put the foot down, its not far up the Revs until it Pulls back and kills power.
Ill be having the codes cleared and then checked after work, my next guess is just the throttle body

Thanks again mate