Hello! I am new here! I just bought a 2004 Chrysler crossfire and I am LOVING it!!!

Anyways, the guy that sold it to me says the key fob stopped working when he replaced the car battery.

I tried re-syncing the remote to the car according to the owners manual (press lock or unlock on the fob twice and then within 30 seconds turn the key to the run position.

That did not work. But I also noticed that the alarm does not turn on by locking the car with the key. The only thing that happens is I can hear the (air pump?) click in the back of the car and all the locks are then locked.

The car only came with one key and I am considering purchasing a new one off needswings but I want to get this figured out to make sure it isn't something else.

Also, I did replace the 2 CR2025 batteries in the remote, no change.

 

Congratulations on your purchase! And welcome to the Forum 🤗 you seem to be a pretty sharp person and I don't mean this to insult but double check to make sure you have the batteries in the fob in the correct orientation. It's surprising how many times the batteries are incorrectly installed. And you didn't say whether you have a coupe or a roadster. Try disconnecting your negative battery cable and turn on the headlight switch for about 15 minutes then turn the headlight switch off and reconnect the negative battery cable making sure all connections are clean of course and that the connection at the fender is not corroded then try resyncing your key again.

 

stick key into ignition, then press lock or unlock on the fob twice and then within 30 seconds turn the key to the run position

 

Two things to try.

If you press and hold either the lock or unlock button for about two seconds, look at the red window on the fob, you should see a round red light flash for about a second, each time you press and hold. If you see that light, it's possible your remote at least has power to work. If you don't see any light flash, then nothing is happening at all (no power). Is it possible you put the batteries in upside down ? They will fit upside down (and not work). See the + mark on the inside of the cover and the + on the batteries. Both + should face the same direction toward the removable cover. Also, CAREFULLY check the little flexible contact pins, maybe they are bent out of position slightly and not making contact with the batteries enough. Again, CAREFULLY is the caution word here, they probably will break off very easily if you bend too hard.

Next, on the programming of it, the way you typed it, it didn't exactly show the right procedure, but you may just not have described correctly what you were doing.
The instructions I got when I ordered a new fob said:
1. Insert the key into the ignition switch.
2. Press either the lock or unlock button momentarily twice.
Turn the key in the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position within 30 seconds.

You didn't mention you did Step 1 to insert it into the ignition switch first. I think that is an important part of the steps because the fob with authenticate with the car when it is in the ignition.

Eventually you will really want to have a second key any way, since a single key will somehow cause a crisis (can't find the one key, battery in fob dies etc.). Maybe you can budget to buy the second key and see the results with that. When I bought my Crossfire, it only had one key. I got mine through NeedsWings, which is the easiest and probably the most reasonable way to purchase a new key that you can find.

 

On the alarm, the original one from the factory does not make any chirping sound when locking or unlocking the car. The only indication you get, is hearing the air pump for the locks like you describe. Also the front and back lights will flash to indicate the car is locked or unlocked.
If you replace the alarm with one of the newer replacements they make, it will chirp when the car is locked and unlocked (from what I read on other threads here).
My alarm also does not work at all. It is completely pulled out of the car right now, and that does not affect anything having it completely pulled (other than the obviously is no alarm). Lock and unlock still works fine from the remote, and car starts normally.
So, other than hearing the alarm when you press the PANIC button on the remote, the alarm is not going to interact with the remote unless your car has a newer alarm module that chirps.

 

I appreciate all of the replies! I actually tried resyncing the remote both ways. First I tried it without putting it in the ignition, then again putting it in the ignition after reading the owners manual.

The red light does come on but I think it is weak. I put new batteries in it. I think I bent the prongs and am not sure what they are supposed to look like.

I will probably order a a new remote. But I have to wait until I get the registration card.

I will try disconnecting the battery as directed.

I would like an alarm system on it... The lights don't flash when I lock it with the key.

 

The lights won't flash , manually locking it. Mine will chirp ( I have that siren) , but no lights.

 

My experience is going to contradict some of the information posted here. I believe that if the alarm siren batteries are dead, the key fob functions will stop working. I had that happen and as soon as I replaced the alarm siren, the key fob functions worked again . . . Just Sayin' . . .

 

If I lock the doors with the key I get the doors locked, but no horn honk, no lights flash, no security light on the dash. And if I roll the windows down, lock the doors with the key and open the door from the inside handle the door opens and nothing happens. No flashing lights, no honking, nothing.

So it l don't know what it means of the alarm doesn't work AND the keyless lock doesn't work.

Alarm module is $500??? Holy smokes!!!

It's going to be awhile before I get a new key from needs wings. I have to drive the car awhile to pass smog before I can get it in my name. And then the DMV will take a few weeks to get me my papers in the mail. As needs wings requires an image of the registration and Driver's license.

 

Your alarm siren is dead. When the alarm siren is dead your key fob functions will not work. If you want to fix your car you'll need to replace the alarm siren.

The alarm siren is NOT $500.00. Where did you get that price? NEVER check with a stealership first . . . they should be your LAST resort for parts. And NEVER go to a Chrysler stealership for ANYTHING excecpt when you have exhausted all other avenues . . . and then only out of desperation as a VERY LAST RESORT.

I bought two new alarm sirens from this e-bay seller a few months ago . . . Look here:

MERCEDES-BENZ 2198203226 GENUINE OEM SIREN | eBay

There is a "date of manufacture" on the box and the ones I received were pretty current (not new old stock that had been sitting on a shelf for many years). That is the part number you want (2198203226). The updated alarm siren will give you the audible chirp sound (three chirps when locked and one chirp when unlocked) in addition to having your lights flashing. Replace your alarm siren and then come back and post here to let us know your situation . . .

 

Lights do not flash when Locking or unlocking the car manually with the key but the siren does beep as it should. Also, all the doors, gas cap and the hatch open even if only the drivers door was set to open when using the fob.
The beeps from the siren are caused by signals from the CLP/SSM. Presumably the flashing lights are caused by the same module when locking/unlocking remotely.
Removal of the siren entirely seemingly does not affect the lock/unlock pattern, there is no beep though.

 

That's the siren. This is the alarm module: Alarm Module - eBay

 

Have it your way.

 

If you want to fix your car you'll need to replace the alarm siren.

Replace your alarm siren and then come back and post here to let us know your situation . . .

 

I replaced the siren with the updated one. My car does chirp when I lock and unlock it now. I tested the alarm, it was extremely loud. I think I am deaf and I won't hear it go off now. lol.

My remote key fob still is not locking/unlocking the doors, I am manually using the key. I ordered a key replacement from needswings. But, I am noticing that my car starts then dies 2 seconds later. It does that twice then does nothing when I turn the key. I usually get it to start again in under 5 minutes. By messing with the key, sometimes getting out and locking and then unlocking the doors and trying again.

I want my remote fixed, and I want my starting issue fixed. My key is original and has some wear to it, the tip has a curved bend to it at the tip, in a spiral shape. hard to explain, not sure if this car has a shaved key thing in it... Assuming it does not since it uses a chip. I am hope the keyless lock/unlock and the starting issue is related.

 

Two weeks ago we assumed that the car ran OK, but now it does not run. Did this no running situation just start?

 

Well, I purchased it from a coworker's son about 2 or 3 weeks ago. He says he never had any issues with starting the car. I asked him before buying the car, because I noticed it was a common problem.

Right away I took the key fob completely apart, trying to replace the batteries in it. Later I found out there is an access door on the back so you didn't have to take it all the way apart. When I took it apart, I pulled the pieces apart suddenly and pieces flew across the room. The chip dropped on the floor, I picked it up not sure what it was. and gathered the rest of the pieces.

At the time, I didn't know it was a chip, it looked like a piece of plastic. I called the guy asking if the batteries had to be in the remote to start the car, and explained what happened. He said that it is chipped, and told me to place the chip or hold the chip near the ignition while trying to start the car, that worked. took the chip away, tried again, no go. Confirmed it was a chip. Also looking under a magnifying glass I could see part number, and other numbers that would correspond to security chip information.

I assumed I never put the chip in the remote in the correct place... But, now my issue is getting worse. At first it would only die once, and start right up the second time. But now... it's being very problematic. According to the previous owner, he never had issues with it starting.

He seemed honest, he told me every little thing wrong with the car, even minor things. I could give you a list of everything he told me and you would agree he seemed to be completely honest.

 

If you don't get the chip back in correctly, its not going to start. The black ring around the key assembly(hallo) and the chip in the fob work together to tell the system it is OK to start the engine. It HAS TO BE THAT CLOSE. Its not like some of the newer cars, where's its OK in your pocket. New key?? Call Rob @Needswings.com.
(not affiliated or payed for by needswings.com). lol

 

Is there anything else you have not told us?
The chip is glued or held right up close to the red window, you can probably see where it came from.

 

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I sense some attitude with that question, perhaps it was not intended. However, the chip was not glued because the previous owner replaced just the shell of the remote because the rubber buttons were cracking. He purchased a shell off Amazon or eBay and transferred the guts into the new casing.

Here are pics of how I put the chip in the case. The red ink is how I was putting it in at first. But the chip kept coming loose and was rattling in the remote and I would have to shake the remote to get the chip to the front of the case to start the car.

The yellow ink is where I have the chip now and it fit snug in that spot. It worked, so I thought the snug fit and it working meant that's where it was supposed to go.