Making a Multi-Purpose tool
I checked the posts the other day and couldn't find a lot on the multi-purpose tool. Mine is missing on my '05 roadster and, as expected, the top no longer goes down. Tried all the tips, just beeps twice. I'd greatly appreciate someone giving me the mm wrench size, thickness, and length. I feel I could easily make my own. The car is only driven occasionally and lowering the top manually would be a minor inconvenience.
Thank you,
Art Rigsby
Thank you,
Art Rigsby
Originally Posted by Lark
I checked the posts the other day and couldn't find a lot on the multi-purpose tool. Mine is missing on my '05 roadster and, as expected, the top no longer goes down. Tried all the tips, just beeps twice. I'd greatly appreciate someone giving me the mm wrench size, thickness, and length. I feel I could easily make my own. The car is only driven occasionally and lowering the top manually would be a minor inconvenience.
Thank you,
Art Rigsby
Thank you,
Art Rigsby
Material is 1/8" thick.
Plot full size and trace out profile
Last edited by onehundred80; Jul 15, 2010 at 10:21 AM.
THANKS onehundred80! Should have it whipped up this afternoon. Talk about quick response!
Art
Art
Originally Posted by tighed1
So what's the procedure to lower the top with the tool?
Haven't heard of this till now.
Haven't heard of this till now.
Simple, any vandal worth his salt can do it in less than two minutes.
Originally Posted by onehundred80
You take the sharp end of the Multi-purpose Tool and slash the top into manageable pieces and put them in the trunk.
Simple, any vandal worth his salt can do it in less than two minutes.
Simple, any vandal worth his salt can do it in less than two minutes.
Got ready to make the multi-purpose tool, but tried a long (8") 10mm open end wrench and worked like a charm. The bow latch is a little hidden, just behind the top of the trunk opening, can't really see it. 7mm allen works there. The whole process is an easy one-person job.
Top goes back up hydralically OK, just won't go down. Must be some sensor telling the top not to retract...........?
Thanks for the diagram and all the help.
Art Rigsby
Top goes back up hydralically OK, just won't go down. Must be some sensor telling the top not to retract...........?
Thanks for the diagram and all the help.
Art Rigsby
Make sure the trunk partition is fully locked in position. If it slips even a little, the top won't go down. I've had to lift it up and pull it towards me to fully engage in the slots.
Originally Posted by Goldwing
Make sure the trunk partition is fully locked in position. If it slips even a little, the top won't go down. I've had to lift it up and pull it towards me to fully engage in the slots.
Art Rigsby
Ok, I THINK I can list the "ingredients" for moving the top...
1) Speed under 9mph.
2) Trunk divider deployed (and sensor triggered).
3) Trunk lid closed all the way (and sensor triggered).
4) (To put top down) Release latch from windshield frame (and sensor therefore triggered, since it's lowering only that is a problem, I'd check this sensor(s)).
5) Trunk ELECTRIC LOCK deployed.*
*This is an odd one. When you press the button, the first thinng you will hear, JUST BEFORE the pump starts, is the electric cam of the electric trunk lock extending to make SURE no one opens the trunk while the lid is up! As the top stops moving, you will hear the cam retract. This asembly has a sensor or two in it to confirm that the truck is locked closed for the time the pump is running. Maybe this cam/sensor is bad.
The car uses pneumatic locks but the trunk also has this ELECTRIC lock up under the latch. The top control module (or maybe the body control module under direction from the TCM) operates this lock.
Hope this helps. MOST problems with the top are sensors or the fingers/arms/etc. that trigger the sensors. Cant remember anyone replacing a module yet. Also, there are numerous sensors on the cylinders themselves. Mabye, very likely even, a sensor is bad on a cylinder. The service manual goes into great detail about the whole system. I learned this when my electric lock assembly got a little stuck and locked my trunk PERMANENTLY!
1) Speed under 9mph.
2) Trunk divider deployed (and sensor triggered).
3) Trunk lid closed all the way (and sensor triggered).
4) (To put top down) Release latch from windshield frame (and sensor therefore triggered, since it's lowering only that is a problem, I'd check this sensor(s)).
5) Trunk ELECTRIC LOCK deployed.*
*This is an odd one. When you press the button, the first thinng you will hear, JUST BEFORE the pump starts, is the electric cam of the electric trunk lock extending to make SURE no one opens the trunk while the lid is up! As the top stops moving, you will hear the cam retract. This asembly has a sensor or two in it to confirm that the truck is locked closed for the time the pump is running. Maybe this cam/sensor is bad.
The car uses pneumatic locks but the trunk also has this ELECTRIC lock up under the latch. The top control module (or maybe the body control module under direction from the TCM) operates this lock.
Hope this helps. MOST problems with the top are sensors or the fingers/arms/etc. that trigger the sensors. Cant remember anyone replacing a module yet. Also, there are numerous sensors on the cylinders themselves. Mabye, very likely even, a sensor is bad on a cylinder. The service manual goes into great detail about the whole system. I learned this when my electric lock assembly got a little stuck and locked my trunk PERMANENTLY!
Originally Posted by pizzaguy
Ok, I THINK I can list the "ingredients" for moving the top...
1) Speed under 9mph.
2) Trunk divider deployed (and sensor triggered).
3) Trunk lid closed all the way (and sensor triggered).
4) (To put top down) Release latch from windshield frame (and sensor therefore triggered, since it's lowering only that is a problem, I'd check this sensor(s)).
5) Trunk ELECTRIC LOCK deployed.*
*This is an odd one. When you press the button, the first thinng you will hear, JUST BEFORE the pump starts, is the electric cam of the electric trunk lock extending to make SURE no one opens the trunk while the lid is up! As the top stops moving, you will hear the cam retract. This asembly has a sensor or two in it to confirm that the truck is locked closed for the time the pump is running. Maybe this cam/sensor is bad.
The car uses pneumatic locks but the trunk also has this ELECTRIC lock up under the latch. The top control module (or maybe the body control module under direction from the TCM) operates this lock.
Hope this helps. MOST problems with the top are sensors or the fingers/arms/etc. that trigger the sensors. Cant remember anyone replacing a module yet. Also, there are numerous sensors on the cylinders themselves. Mabye, very likely even, a sensor is bad on a cylinder. The service manual goes into great detail about the whole system. I learned this when my electric lock assembly got a little stuck and locked my trunk PERMANENTLY!
1) Speed under 9mph.
2) Trunk divider deployed (and sensor triggered).
3) Trunk lid closed all the way (and sensor triggered).
4) (To put top down) Release latch from windshield frame (and sensor therefore triggered, since it's lowering only that is a problem, I'd check this sensor(s)).
5) Trunk ELECTRIC LOCK deployed.*
*This is an odd one. When you press the button, the first thinng you will hear, JUST BEFORE the pump starts, is the electric cam of the electric trunk lock extending to make SURE no one opens the trunk while the lid is up! As the top stops moving, you will hear the cam retract. This asembly has a sensor or two in it to confirm that the truck is locked closed for the time the pump is running. Maybe this cam/sensor is bad.
The car uses pneumatic locks but the trunk also has this ELECTRIC lock up under the latch. The top control module (or maybe the body control module under direction from the TCM) operates this lock.
Hope this helps. MOST problems with the top are sensors or the fingers/arms/etc. that trigger the sensors. Cant remember anyone replacing a module yet. Also, there are numerous sensors on the cylinders themselves. Mabye, very likely even, a sensor is bad on a cylinder. The service manual goes into great detail about the whole system. I learned this when my electric lock assembly got a little stuck and locked my trunk PERMANENTLY!
I used to sell universal front brake cable for motorcycles back in the '60's, it would be easy to make a remote release handle, gonna look for a way to route the cable and release handle.
Art Rigsby
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kodebuster
Wheels, Brakes, Tires and Suspension
12
Nov 5, 2020 04:06 PM
pioneer4x4
Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & Modifications
11
Mar 25, 2019 10:35 AM
MAXIMUM
Cars For Sale - Archive
7
Aug 4, 2015 11:04 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




