That is called (by Chrysler) the "Latch Retainer Switch" in the description of the top system on page 23-458 of the service manual.

It is also called the "D Handle Lock Switch" on page 8W-91-25 of the same manual.

And you are right, when you turn the latch handle, this switch changes state (goes open according to the service manual but I am sure this is BACKWARDS) and this signal is sent to the Power Top Control Module pin 16 of connector C1.

The PTCM then tells the BCM, over the "can" bus to lower the windows.

Now, as to WHERE it is...

You can SEE it!

Just rotate the latch and let the top pop up away from the windshield frame. Now, look in the square hole on the passenger side of the frame, where the top hook goes in, stand on that side of the car, and use a short, small screwdriver to lift up on the cam of the switch. The light in the top button will go out if you lift the cam, fooling it into "thinking" the top has closed and the hook has pressed up on it.

Of course, in your case, it won't because (apparently) the switch is bad.

But to be sure, make sure Fuse 5 (should be 25 amp) in the underhood accessory fuse block is good. This is the only feed of power I see to the top module, if there is no power to the module, it can't light the light and can't communicate with the BCM, either!

Fuse 6 in the same box is a 40 amp, this is the supply to the top hydralic motor itself, but having that fuse bad would not prevent the light from coming on. It would only prevent the motor from running.

I see no accessory power feed to the Top Module. Now, we all know that the top wont move without the key on, it looks like the BCM tells the Top Module (over the "can" bus) that the key is on because again, I see no switched feed of power to the Top Module in the manual. This could be a mistake in the manual, but I don't think so. There is NO other fuse associated with the top. ALSO, all fuses under the hood are "battery hot", the ones on the driver's side of the dash are those fed by the key, as far as I can tell. Anyway, the light will light even with the key off, so, either your switch is bad, fuse 5 is blown, or something else is wrong (like a bad top module, a bad ground connection to the top module, etc.) But these other ideas are not as likely as a bad switch or fuse.

Hope this helps.

TO GET TO THE SWITCH: It looks like (from the picture on page 8W-91-25 of the manual) you have to remove the sun visors and then the entire trim strip from the bottom of the windshield frame. You'd probably also need to pop the trim strips off from the sides as well (the easiest part of the job). But the picture on that page is a LOUSY SKETCH!

 

Check ebay I just bought one last month.

 

pizzaguy,

thanks. Helps tremendously. Any recommendations as to where to purchase the switch, if it is, in fact, bad?

 

See post 22. When I get home, I'll look get the names of the places I've bought Crossfire parts from as well.

 

Managed to make it thru the summer tolerating the inconsistncies w/my top. usually too hot in OK for much convertible weather, so not really much of an issue.

Today, am seriously looking for the switch I need, but am having some difficulty locating one. Also running into some question about exactly what its called. Anyone have a PN? thanks.

 

I found this on ebay. " Top over Center Switch: This is the switch that is mounted to the RH (passenger side) side rail mechanism. This switch indicates to the control module that the front of the roof has been lifted and is ready to operate."

 

Why does the top need so many nannys?
Can you get away with jumping the switches? Some might be needed for sequencing.
The 66 and 68 Chryslers do fine without any interlocks--just have to remember not to put too much in the front of the trunk and then put top down.
Knock on wood I have not had any issues with the crossfire top.