So im driving down the road and every light comes on and the speedometer drops to 0 mph even though the car is still running and moving forward and can accelerate. I get home just fine...shut her down and then it wont start again and the spoiler is up and all lights are on.....any suggestions? Ive heard wheel speed sensor as well as some sort of module. I love this car but dang!

 

Start with the RCM module.
Send an email to tighed1@hotmail.com, he can fix it for you.

 

There are many ways it will not start, the engine is turned over by the starter or it does not turnover when using the starter, which is it?
How many miles on this car?
Any codes set?
Need more info as there are many causes as with all cars.

 

Yea, does the starter engage but the car still won't start - or do you not even get starter engagement?

If you get no starter engagement, then yank the RCM and follow George's advice.
If you get starter engagement, well, we may have some real homework to do here.
The fact the car kept running makes me think the RCM is NOT the issue, but until you tell me if you have stater engagement, I can't help, that clue is VERY important.

It seems to me someone else experienced this VERY symptom in the past, oh, year or so. Dave? GEorge? Do you guys remember that? I'm sure the thread would be in one of the technical forums here... I swear someone spoke of "the dash lit up, speedo went to zero, but the car kept running fine..." I am thinking it was resolved, and I remember thinking "Im gonna remember this." But I don't remember the fix, just that it happened.

 

I've repaired a few RCMs with those exact symptoms. Turns out it was a bad traction control relay. Still haven't looked to see how it possibly affects the speedo.
Weird.

• Car will start and run with bad traction control relay. Wing will be up and ABS/ESP lights will be on, possible no speedo operation.
• Car will crank but not start with bad fuel relay (really!).
• Car will not crank or start with bad engine control relay. With key in the ON position, wait, the radiator fan will spin VERY fast.
• Car will start and run with bad air pump relay but will throw a CEL and PO410 code.
• Car will start and run with a bad horn relay. Horn will not work!

 

Has anyone thought about checking the battery amps. Have a John Deere Gator, wouldn't start even though the voltage was over 12, but not enough amps. Just a thought.

 

The post is six years old, but since you asked: Yes. It's a dead end.



Load testing the battery is not a valid test for this scenario. It appears that the car's electronics are sensitive to the poorer capacitive reactance of an aged battery. The battery will test fine insofar as capability to provide amperage, it just does not filter well.


There is another reason to not run a battery more than four years old in these cars - the poorer filtering capacity of an older battery can cost you. I preach "change the battery at four years". But on my current SE, I let it go almost five. One evening, putting the top up, system voltage glitched, now I need an airbag module.


I guess that even I don't listen to me....