My Daughter just replaced the battery in her 05, I think it came from Wal Mart for around $89.00.
Problems with alarm going off, and the car not starting.
No more problems.
My battery decided to take a dump when it was 4 years and 3 months old. Fortunately it was just a couple of days before my 3 year warranty expired, so Chrysler replaced it for free.
Anybody driving on a 7 year old battery is driving on borrowed time, and must like to gamble.
My battery is 4 years and 2 months old, and I'll be replacing it very soon.
Even though our Crossfire is only driven for pleasure, I want it to run when I want to enjoy it. It only gets driven 8 months out of the year, so I don't want to take a chance on missing out on even one day behind the wheel.

 

My 04 had the original battery. No problems, so I decided to wait on replacing it. One day on cold start up the ESP/BAS light and the spoiler went up. Drove to Sam's Club and picked the newest battery in the rack. Have not had the problem since new battery installed. Just saying it is the first thing to do when the Gremlins start to show up!

 

Throwing parts at a problem is NO way to fix ANYTHING, the proper move is to learn enough to understand the system you are working on to know how it works, so you can associate symptom with cause.

But having said that, three things:

1) ANY battery so old is going to cause problems for you, replace it now.
2) Many of us have had similar problems that were fixed by a new battery.
3) My new battery came to $93 at O'Reilly's. Paying over $100 for a battery seems too much (but prices DO vary around the country.)

 

Congratulations! Yours is the first case I've heard actually identical to what mine did. Kinda brings a tear to my eye and a glimmer of hope..

Just seems like "new battery" is about a 50/50 crap shoot when looking through all the threads.

 

So riddle me this batman.. when the manual says the system looks for a minimum of 12 volts for the ABS and your battery is suppying over the 12 volts why would it go into "fail" mode.. at least we now know..
(A) mine supplies 12.25 volts with ignition on position
(B) CDT is showing 12.5 volts with ignition on

So should a battery be the answer we will then know.. never trust the manual .. LOL.
And as a footnote.. under these conditions "shouldn't" hooking it up to jumper cables mask this?

 

It is. But an old battery is like an old person - the end is near, and there may be no warning - like with my Durango. All was fine and then I was stranded. After a $90 tow, 1 1/2 hours of diagnostics ($135), some old guy came up and told the guys to change the battery. The Durango started right up and I was outta there in a few minutes.

 

Gambled on my 2000 XLC1200 for nine years.. without a battery tender or otherwise. Glad I didn't replace it at 4 years "because that's the average age for a really good one"..

 

What you want is a battery that satisfies the needs of the car under the conditions you drive in. You may be able to buy such a battery for less than $100 at some places. At others such a battery may cost more. So do not let the price determine the battery you buy, get a quality one that is going to last. Cheap in some places means just that, cheap.

 

Not interested, Dave. I replace mine every three years because it makes no sense to "stretch it" and possibly pay another $90 tow bill and put up with the inconvenience.

The Durango lesson was not wasted on ME!

 

I had read about your Durango..and like I say I'm not ruling the battery out. And I knew what I bought for my chevy truck.. a cheap battery. The Crossfire will get around a 750 cranking amp battery. I'd like it to be able to sit a few days (Didn't get started over this weekend at all) and know it's going to crank.

 

I often leave for work on Sunday (in a rental car) and return Friday or Saturday - never have had a problem with the car starting.

I simply buy a battery that meets the specifications, just not an OEM battery, that's all.

 

My wife's 03 crossfire has the same symptoms abs, bas/esp lights all on, the spoiler goes up after a few minutes of driving and the spoiler switch light flashes, and we get p0500 for a code, (no vehicle speed sensor), after turning the car off and then back on the spoiler will go down using the switch. but when we start driving the spoiler goes up and will not go down. we replaced the battery after the rear window fell out and flooded the trunk so it is less than 6 months old. any suggestions would be welcomed i am home for 2 weeks and hope to fix it before i leave.

 

Well if you lived in the Tulsa area.. I could loan you a full set of wheel speed sensors to locate which one is bad on yours.. That's where I'd place my money.. bad wheel sensor. Mine did all of yours, with the exception of spoiler went up when I started the car and hasn't been back down since.

 

How difficult are these wheel speed sensors to replace?

 

Remove the wheel.. 1 bolt holds them in.. wire clips along the way.. the socket they plug into has a wire retainer. Easy to do.. just a little time when chasing four sensors..

You can find them in the service manual.. They are in the SRT6 section of the forum (PDF download). Just in case you haven't gotten yours yet..

 

Well it was a wheel speed sensor, I ordered the rear ones and replaced the drivers side rear and problem solved, everything works and the lights are out. Thanks for the suggestion, I just wish there was a way to determine up front which one was bad. The bad one was the cheapest of the 4 at 55$ and the passenger side was 130$.

 

Go figure how they get their pricing huh.. lol.

Glad you got it resolved.. And from what I've seen the only way to tell which one is bad is about a $100 dollar trip to the dealer for them to hook up to computer and tell you. That's why I opted for the for used ones (but working at time of wreck) for 60 bucks. Unfortunately they weren't my issue..

 

Did you check the central locking module located in the hatch bottom depressions? Water in there causes many problems and severly damages the electronics in the right side depression (mine has another module of some sort if I remember correctly, it is a bear to get to but easy to check if the flooding just happened). There are two rubber plugs under the rear towards the rear axle area. Just pop them out or poke a slit into them to see if standing water is present. It would be better if your car was leaning forward SLIGHTLY, if water is found you might have damaged electronics (if not you may still have damage just not seeable until you get into the depression). Getting in there without cutting up those foam inserts involves taking most of the trim out from sides and rear, and if I remember correctly upper (sides) left and right of rear hatch. Mine was dry but I did mine because I was reading all the problems people were having with water damage not related to spoiler or vert top window, so I verified mine was dry.

 

Hello everyone,I have an '05 roadster with 43,000 miles on it. The story about the Skreem module is scaring me. Does it have anything to do with the amount of milage on the car? The only problem I've had was two weeks ago I went to the beach about an hours drive with the top down, it was about 90 degrees outside, went to put the top up and it just beeped at me, lights for top, air foil, and traction control all lite up. Turned off the car, started it up 3 times and everthing worked no problem since, has this happened to anyone else? I had Auto Zone do a battery check, starter check and alternator check, everything good. What should I be keeping an eye on? BTW you guys are great, I have fixed many little annoying problems with the advice on this forum. I am in Tampa Fl also. Thanks for any help.Gary

 

What other reasons do the BAS/ESP lights come on and not go out? Mine is an '05 roadster Crosssfire with very low mileage. Followed the directions in manual to recalibrate but no change.