Drydock:

In my case, I believe it was something pretty dumb - I had not filled the reservoir correctly; it was just a tad low. I did update the OP (original post) in that thread and mentioned the need to make sure the reservoir is properly filled . Good luck!

 

 

g3air,
Yeah, I was carefull to drain and refill the resevoir with new fluid.
My mechanic said the PTCM is locked, but he can reset in a few seconds with his tester.

 

I am in the process of rebuilding my convertible top hydraulic system on my '05 Crossfire. I received the cylinders and pump back from Klaus in an unbelievable short time. I am now putting the cylinders in the roof. My problem is I accidently hit a small micro switch on the metal frame on the passenger side as I replaced the first piece of weather stripping. I did not see it but was lucky enough to catch a small spring as it fell but lost the plastic cover and whatever else was there. The switch in not on the driver's side so I cannot determine what I need to fix it.
What is it for?
What do I need to fix it?
Where in the manual can I find the switch?
Should I continue to finish the project and go back and fix it later when I have determined what the effect is of the switch?
Where do I find what I need to fix it?

Al

 

This is the "top opened" switch, it is in series with the divider panel switch in the trunk. It is a safety switch to ensure that you don't run the pump with the top still latched to the header.
As long as you don't get stupid, you can bypass this switches function by just wiring the 2 leads together.
I can almost guarantee you that you will not find a replacement part. ( been there, failed that )
I did think of a friend that I knew had bought a spare top frame from a junk yard and he sent me the switch no charge, sometimes you just get lucky

 

Thanks, you told me what I needed to know. I will by-pass it. I'll also be careful not to start the pump with the top locked. Back to the rebuild.

 

If you try to rebuild it, here are some photos to help.

 

Update on my top issue. My Crossfire mechanic ran a full diagnostic and discovered the PTCM is fried. I have no idea how that happened, but probably something I did!
Anyway, these modules are no longer stocked/manufactured by Chrysler. I found one on eBay, took the car back to my mechanic.
He had found number 7 fuse blown and had to clear the fault codes, but got the top working again. $ well worth it.
One lesson learned: always snap pics with your phone before taking things apart.

 

Does anyone have a part number for the "top open" switch located in the top on the passenger side? I could get lucky on ebay. From the picture I see how it will work so I will continue in my search for the pieces. If not I will by-pass the switch.

 

I looked through the parts manual and it is not listed.

 

It is on the part in the top photo.

 

The part number for the switch is a Mercedes number: A193 820 21 10
Looks like it is discontinued, however there are a few companies that make old Mercedes parts, so you might get lucky if you are patient. I was able to get a small connector shell from ECS Tuning, a Mercedes performance shop.
I have searched on Mercedes numbers like these before and the searches seem to work better if you leave off the "A" and take out the spaces.
Also, check with Chrysler using the Mercedes number and see if they can cross reference to the MOPAR version.
Try searching the national used auto parts database (can't remember the name). You may need to buy the top frame to get the switch.
I have had some luck with eBay.
Good luck!

 

It looks like A 193 820 21 10 Hope this helps.

.

 

Right part number. Ebay does not have one today. Thanks for the lead

 

Are you certain that you can not reassemble the switch? Do you have a pic of the damaged switch?

 

This is all that is left. The switch mounted on the metal and the plastic frame. If the switch is in the position shown and I can push it in, does that mean I still have to short the wires to still use the up/down on the top?

 

Thanks for the great photos, Ray48317. I'm having trouble with that top switch myself. After unlatching the top and pushing it up a little, I have to reach over and move that spring on the top switch to get it to release and allow me to lower the top. Once the switch closes, the top goes down and then will go back up just fine. But then, I have to do it again the next time that I lower the top.

I'm reluctant to bypass the safety top switch by splicing the wires together. But, I might do that. But before I do that, I'm going to examine that spring mechanism again and see if I can get it to move more freely on its own.

I'm also wondering if the top switch could be replaced with a tilt-switch that is mounted at just the correct angle so that the switch is open when the top is latched and then as soon as you unlatch the top and push it up, the tilt-switch closes the contacts and allows the top to go down. The only trick would be making sure that the little roller ball in the tilt-switch keeps the contacts closed all the way down to the stowed position. I'll have to look at how flat the top is stowed in the down position to see if it might work. But for a $5 tilt-switch, it might be another solution to try.

 

I am ready to going looking for a contact or tilt switch to replace what is left of the switch. After you remove the two screws and cut the wire you now have room for a switch. As you can see, I cannot determine what the position of the metal lever on the little switch ( is pushed against the switch or not) in the latched position and where the lever is when the roof is released from the front window. This assembly is custom made for this application so when the lever is not making contact is it in the "normally closed " position opposite of what a switch is normally wired for. I need to know this to determine what kind of switch to buy. Two wire if I can find one or more likely a three wire with a N/O and N/C terminal. My guess is $5 is about right.

What I need to know is
What is the condition of the switch lever when the top is latched to the front window?
When the lever is away from the switch is the switch wires set to be is the "normally open" position or "normally closed" position?
Where can I locate a schematic in the manual?

From ala_xfire #125 in this thread, you need a short circuit to complete the interlocks so you can open/close the top. I like you would prefer to have a switch there.

 

Switch is open when top is latched.
When lever is away, the switch is closed.
SRT6 service manual, 8W-66-4