Does the top work now and trunk open?

 

No, neither work. I tried going through the light by the tag but without luck. The handle to open up the trunk now moves but the trunk does not open. Without the trunk opening you cannot work on the top

 

Very nice photos showing your new switch. I’m still trying to get the original top switch to work before I go with your solution or try a tilt switch.

Concerning the locked trunk, I posted this last year:
My convertible top got out of sync two days ago and the trunk was locked. (I had just put my laptop computer in the trunk and it messed me up for a meeting when I couldn't get it out.) I've got a 2005.

I went in through the passenger side license plate light opening. With a long screwdriver, I was able to push on something that looks like a white bellows unit. As soon as the screwdriver deflected the bellows a little, the trunk was unlocked. Sometimes I get lucky when I don't know what I'm doing...but not very often.

Once it was unlocked, I followed Pizzaguy's instructions for resetting the convertible top computer by manually raising and lowering the top three times with the engine running. It's back to "normal" again.

Hang in there.

I couldn’t get my top to work until I had the two main lifting cylinders rebuilt by TopHydraulics.

 

If you want to drive across the state I'll use my scan tool to open your trunk.

 

I am willing to drive across the state. I right now have a top that does not work and a trunk that does not open. Basically this is out of my league. Where and when?

 

I would think a tilt switch would be horrible due to hills, bumps, turns, and such. Who knows what problems you would have with anything but level?

.

 

You're probably right. I was just trying to think outside the box.....

 

This is the first time I've had to get online today, good thing you emailed me earlier,lol. I'll see you in the morning.

 

Hello in Ft. Myers, I may be next in line to visit you to diagnose / get a convertible top working again (2005 SRT6 roadster). I just purchased a DRBIII scanner with ALL of the accessories (but haven't yet opened the box to learn how to use it). Basically my story is that the top was working properly but some of the hydraulic cylinders were leaking so I had all 7 top hydraulic cylinders rebuilt by Top Hydraulics. After reinstalling everything, the top would not function correctly. Tried working with Klaus by phone and e-mail but eventually gave up (not his fault . . . mine I'm sure). I believe that I either I have a travel sensor hook up reversed OR the bow cylinder and / or the tonneau cylinder are not working. I have tried every which way to hook up the travel sensors but just cannot find the solution by trial and error. So, If I bring the car to you along with my DRBIII / Crossfire card and Multiplexer cable, will that diagnose the specific problem and do you think you could get the top working? Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,
Bob Davis

 

yes i absolutely can get your top working again for you. i have my own drb3 so i wouldn't need to use yours. you can PM me, call, email, text me to set up a appointment.

 

Took the drive across state and DualSportDad had what we needed to open my trunk and fix my convertible top. It was well worth the 6 hours of driving. In addition, I learned an awful lot about drb3. Well worth my time.

I want to thank everyone on the forum for all the help provided. It is nice to know there might not be a place to take the car for service but there is a lot of good help out there to help a novice like me.

 

Good news ! What did he do to fix the top ?

 

Al it was very nice meeting you today. I'm really glad we got that trunk open and the top going.

It turned out to be a split o-ring at the tonneau cover cylinder bottom hose. During the process the trunk locked us out about 5-6 times. But Al's switch worked perfectly.

 

Thanks for getting back.

 

When I rebuilt the top down switch, I used a "Cherry E63-04RP Sub-Miniature Micro Switches, NO/NC .1A 125V Gold Contacts". Got it on ebay. Square D makes the same switch. Paid $10 for 5 which included delivery in two days. I included pictures of the completion on March 28th in this thread.in note #160

 

Just a few notes from me after my completion of changing the full set of hydraulic. All of these notes are in the thread but here they are in one place. I am a novice and this task is not complex or hard to do. I strongly suggest that you give it a try.
1 Everything you need to know is in this thread. The quality of pictures are outstanding of actual things you need to do.
2 Take pictures of " before" of the way the wires and hydraulic lines are run. I was vey eager to get the cylinder back in , as a result I was not happy of the way mine came out and had to redo several of the cylinders to get it the way it was.
3 Take pictures of where the white washers go and do not go.
4 When you are removing the cylinders immediately connect the sensors to the hydraulic line they are coupled with. I used plastic wire wraps. Cut the wrap just before you connect one of the set. The hydraulic lines basically maintain the shape to show you where they go. The sensors have no marking that I saw and do no have any indication of where they came from.
5 Odd number hydraulic line goes to the movable portion of the cylinder.
6 Make sure the "o-ring" is at the end of the fat portion of the hydraulic line connector as you inset the connecter into the cylinder. The o ring can slide down the barrel before it gets in the cylinder and seats itself. This can cause a leak in your system. It happened 3 times to me. I caught it 2 times and the third time it got by me. My old eyes had trouble seeing it clearly as I put it together. Klaus has a very good picture on the bag that contains the new "O-rings" on what and how you need to do it.
7 The clips for the lines fly away as you try to slide them off. I finally figured out to put a large cloth under the area I was working on to catch the clip if it went flying away. They are very hard to find if they fly away.
8 You probably have all the tools you need now accept for a pop rivet gun. They are cheap and easy to get.
9 If you have trouble do not try to force the latch of the bow portion of the top into the tonneau cover. Stop, take a small walk and then manually open the top so you can find where the problem is. Always start trying to see if the tops is working with it in the open position.
10. The top down switch is located over the passenger seat. I never saw it in my effort to complete the task. Once you know it is there you cannot miss it. The plastic portion that determines if the top is fully down and locked is very easy to break.
11 The two main cylinders for the top have a steel cable running through the bottom mounting location. Be aware of them and make sure you do not somehow get caught on them. They do break at the connection to the top frame.
12 When you have a problem or a "surprise" get to the forum for help. You will be amazed how quick you will get very good help.

 

Speaking of thinking outside the box, as I previously mentioned, my convertible top switch (above the passenger’s head) has been sticking. The spring mechanism was sticking in the groove that it slides in. A dab of bicycle grease didn’t help. A buddy of mine, U of Missouri engineer, suggested a rubber band might help keep it in position and not sticking. It works!

In tribute to Missouri engineers, I’ll post the avatar that dedwards0323 uses.

 

So after month's of effort and frustration, I finally gave up and called in an expert to get the convertible top working. Alex is a full time service tech at a major Chrysler dealership and was also their Crossfire tech. Now that his dealership, like most Chrysler dealerships, no longer work on / supports our Crossfires, Alex has started doing repairs "on the side". He primarily does this on weekends. From first hand experience with Alex today, I can confidently tell you that he has the knowledge, experience and all the diagnostic equipment to work on our Crossfires. He's a nice guy and his prices are reasonable. I highly recommend Alex to to anyone needing to have their Crossfire worked on in South Florida . . .

His name on the forum is DualSportDad. He is based in Fort Myers, FL His email is Alex@tightworkautorepair.com

 

thanks again Bob! and thank you very much for providing me a nice clean and spacious area to work on the car, I really appreciate it.

 

Most of us are not in South FLorida.

Now if someone would invent human cloning...