See, this is how you do it. You dont always need the ExACT part, you just need a part that will do the job.

 

MCPO here:
Spring has arrived in Minnesota and I now have my Roadster out of storage in in my garage. I have been driving the car and have found some new information
PROBLEMS
Spoiler with and top switch not functioning

SPOILER:
I found that when driving the spoiler activates when I hit 62 mph. Hence, I know the motor is working. However, I can not activate the spoil using the with. The switch has a steady red light.SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED!!!
CONVERTIBLE TOP: Top does not activate when using the switch. I will be checking the latch retainer switch as that was one of your recommendations. What I found out yesterday was that when I try to lower the top manually, it froze in position and I could not move top or tonneau cover. That had never happened before. I remember reading that I needed to release hydraulic pressure in the lines by turning on ignition while holding the Top switch. That released the hydraulic pressure. Hence, I assume the pump was working. While driving, hear intermittent beeping which goes off if I touch the top switch. Now, when I turn off my car and remove the key the ignition, the top light switch remains on with a steady light.Totally confusing.
I WILL NOT take my car to a Chrysler dealer or Pizzaguy would disown me......
SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED
Thanks all.

 

First step I would take is completely disconnecting the battery and giving the body control module BCM a chance to to clear itself. ​​​​​​I found that my spoiler switch will not activate the spoiler if the PTCM detects that the top is in not completely buttoned up (All the way up or the way down) My guess is you have a defective (or open) sensor in one of several spots. Can you describe what happens when you try to activate the top once it is all the up or all the way down? PS I always pull the 25amp fuse to relax the hydraulics when troubleshooting.

I too, live in Minnesota, own 2 roadsters. What city are you in? Maybe I could help? I've replace or repaired almost every part of these systems so might be able to help you troubleshoot.

HOT TIP. Place a piece of tape across the lip of the tonneau cover lid where you use the long tool to avoid losing paint on that edge. (Don't ask me how I know)

 

Hi
I am sorry i do not know how to use website yet,
I would like to know if anyone knows if performance chips work on
2004 crossfire coupe 3.2 6 cylinder?
And what is a good brand to buy?
Thank you Mazz

 

Save your money and get areal tune if you must, those hips are NFG and a waste of money.
Search for chips and you will see.

 

Dpalmer2,
Great hearing from you. I live in Prior Lake. I too, have owned three Crossfires. Two 2007 models and now this 2005 model.
I'll try your suggestions and get back to you. Would love to get together and talk Crossfire concerns.

MCP)

 

I'm trying to send you a video of my Latch retainer switch that I removed from my car, but can't load it into this message.Any ideas of how to attach video to this message. It appears to be in good condition and working.

 

Here is a photo I copied from my video that shows the condition of the Latch Retainer Switch. Appears no water damage and switch seems to work.

 

I believe that my top open switch is not working. Is there any reason why I can't replace it with this micro switch. I used this switch to get my spoiler working.

 

If you can adapt it, it should work.

 

Is it possible that these items are interrelated Lin some way?
Can a faulty spoiler system affect the top system?
2005 Chrysler Crossfire Limited Convertible
ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS

Convertible Top
-Top will not go up or down
- Light in dash switch blinks consistently
- when driving light blinks and beeps intermittently

Spoiler
- spoiler light on dash blinks steadily
- switch will not activate spoiler, however, spoiler works at 62 mph
and 30 mph

Dome Light
- dome light will not work when doors are opened, but works with dome light switch

Garage Door Opener
- opener will not program

 

Other than the garage door opener, I'd suspect the CLP/SSM is involved here.

1. The top module checks with the CLP/SSM before it will move the top up or down.
2. The door switches that light the dome are wired to the CLP/SSM, the CLP/SSM then tells the BCM to turn the dome light on.
3. The button that controls the wing is wired to the BCM, but the BCM checks with the CLP/SSM before it will move the wing.

Take the trim out of the trunk and get to the CLP/SSM (Central Locking Pump/Security System Module).
Unplug all of the connectors and look for water damage/corrosion. I'd almost bet you will find a mess back there. If you do, you must find a donor parts car and obtain the CLP/SSM and the last 2-3 feet of every cable leading to it. You then put the new CLP/SSM in with the cables from the other car - splicing them in, like I said, about 2-3 feet up the line from the module. (You cannot clean the connectors/pins well enough to have a reliable car, you must replace the damaged connectors/pins.)

 

I should also tell you that I've fixed two cars in 12 years by doing the above. We have too many ways for water to get in that area.
My car sits the garage about 355 days a year so no car of mine has had this issue - but it's a common issue.

 

.


AFTER THE ANTICIPATED REPAIRS, make sure you open up those two rubber plugs in the bottom of the cavity or YOU'LL GO THROUGH ALL THIS AGAIN. Good luck!


.

 

Thanks for you information. I'll try anything.

 

pizzaguy
I REMOVED THE CLP/SSM REMOVED ALL CONNECTIONS TO CHECK FOR CORROSION. FOUND NONE.
WHEEL WELL APPEARS CLEAN WITH NO SIGN OF WATER DAMAGE. ENCLOSED PHOTOS TAKEN.
I'm also including a photo of the driver side PTCM etc. It looks clean with no leaks.







A FEW MINUTES AGO.

 

Pop that bottom cover off the CLP/SSM. Let's see what the circuit board looks like.
If a SMALL amount of water sat there, it is conceivable that the harness and connectors were never harmed, but the circuit board was.

Also, has there been any jump-starting of the car? Any use of a BIG battery charger?
Such activities can damage electronics anywhere in the car.

I STILL suspect the CLP/SSM, it is the common denominator in the list of symptoms.

 

I am having a problem trying to remove the plate to check the circuit board. Is there a trick to popping it open. I hear a groan coming from the CLP/SSM when I move it around. Something is active in it.,...

 

My memory is not good, it's been a year since I fixed Patti Tetu's car but it seems to me the cover pops off with use of a couple flat blade screwdrivers - you pry the tabs such that you can put the cover away.
It takes three or four hands to do this....

 

pizza guy,
We ARE making progress!!!
I disconnected and reconnected all couplings on the. CLP/SSM. When doing so I heard a visible short buzz coming from the unit. I was unable to remove the
bottom plate for fear of breaking it.
However, the next thing I did was to try and raise the top manually. When doing so it locked up on me. When I tried releasing the lock by holding the top switch
on the console for 5 seconds with ignition on I heard ,FOR THE FIRST TIME, the pump motor working. When I tried the switch, the top moved about a fourth of the way
then stopped. I then attempted to raise the top manually while holding the top with don with a stick. The top then completed its cycle.
Whatever, you had me do with the CLP/SSM must have had an affect on the system. I got so excited I almost peed my pants!!!!
So, just now I tried raising the top with the console switch. When engaging the top switch on the console I get a flashing light and a continuous beep.
The motor and pump start working but nothing moves. I'm assuming that the first thing that has to happen is for the Bow latch switch to release the tonneau cover. That doesn't happen.
I checked the microswitch in the tonneau cover and it clicks and appears to be OK. Is there another micro switch in the Tonneau cover Latch? The fluid level is between full and empty mark. I am going to add som hydraulic fluid up to the full mark.

-There have been no fluid leaks in any of the cylinders that I can see.
-All the door and trunk lock all working.
QUESTION: When the top locks up when manually raising for lowering the top, can I just pull the number 5 fuse in the engine bay or will that disturb the sync of the top?
QUESTION: Why I try to raise and lower the top manually three times to try and get the sequence working I don't know how to release the pressure in the hydraulic lines without losing
the sequence.

Thanks again for all you help.

MCPO