Recently had body work done around the deck led latch. Now the convertible top won't work. Not sure the location of the deck led sensor and how to go about bypasiing the sensor. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Andy


Mod note: Title edited for spelling and clarity

 

Have you tried making sure the trunk divider panel is properly in place?
That would prevent the top from operating.
Here is a great video on how to do it manually just until you get the problem fixed:


Also if you don't have the original manual override tool you can get them on flea bay or Amazon:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18603371174...Bk9SR4js75jQYg

 

Thanks for your response. Yes the divider is in place and the sensor is working.
No problem with putting it down manually but really need the top to work correctly.
Im pretty sure its something with the deck led close sensor.

 

A description of what actually happens / doesn't happen when you operate the top would help the ones that really know the tops help you with your issue.

 

So you verified a low at the PTCM with divider up and top pushed away from the windshield frame? I know it sounds like we don't believe what you are saying, but that's only because we don't believe what you are saying.

And you can bypass the divider switch, but you cant bypass the sensors on any of the cylinders, nor can you bypass the one on that latch, the sequence of the PTCM will halt if it sees that sensor in the wrong position. The only way you could bypass it and get the PTCM to still move the top would be to remap the sequence in the PTCM, and even Josh at the MSS can't do that.

There is a tonneau cover latch switch in the mechanism mounted to the bulkhead behind the seats, in the top storage cavity, that is suspect as well as the sensors on the tonneua latch cylinder. It is EASY to improperly seat the hall efffect sensors on all of the cylinders, if they removed or disturbed a cylinder, well any of us who have swapped cylinders have improperly seated one of those Hall effect sensors at one time or another. Now, the shop knows what they touched, if they returned the car to you in a condition where it did not work, they'd be the ones to tell you what they disturbed.

As others have said, it would be helpful if you could walk us thru the operation and tell us when/where the cycle halts and what indications you get. Also, keep in mind that, if work was done, the shop probably manually moved the top and caused the PTCM to lose sync. Starting the engine and cycling the top manually 1-3 times as described in the video usually restores sync. Your assumption as to what is wrong is not something you should hold on to very strongly, if you have not connected a STAR system to it and verified the error, you can't say that problem is ANY particular sensor or switch, so don't get all obsessed on what you THINK is wrong.

 

Pizzaguy,
Thanks for your information. I manualy cycled the top 3 times with the engine running as per the vedio and that didn't work.
When I turn the D ring and disconnect the top from the windshield and then push the down button it beeps but the top doesn't move.
When i was cycling the top manualy and the trunk divder was down it would beep but when i put it back it stopped so I'm petty sure the divider sensor isn't the problem. When i push the sensor manualy it click fine.
I checked the tonneau lid sensor and it seems to work fine, gave it a spray with WD40 anyway.
Not sure what I should do with the PTCM you mentioned?
I'm new to the Crossfire so I apologise for my lack of knowledge and appreciate any help you can send my way!
Thanks, Andy

 

Thanks for your information. I manualy cycled the top 3 times with the engine running as per the vedio and that didn't work.
It does not always work, but that is my "go to" repsonse, as it has bailed out a lot of people (myself included) many times.

When I turn the D ring and disconnect the top from the windshield and then push the down button it beeps but the top doesn't move.
Do the windows go down? If the windows do not automatically go down when the D ring is turned, the top is not going to move.

When i was cycling the top manualy and the trunk divder was down it would beep but when i put it back it stopped so I'm petty sure the divider sensor isn't the problem. When i push the sensor manualy it click fine.
I suppose I can go along with that. That would imply the trunk divider switch (sensor) and top open switch are fine.

I checked the tonneau lid sensor and it seems to work fine, gave it a spray with WD40 anyway.
How are you 'checking'? WHat is the voltage at the PTCM with lid down and latcher versus up? THAT is the only test there is. You keep giving yourself credit for 'checking it' but I don't think you are checking it at all.

Not sure what I should do with the PTCM you mentioned?
The PTCM is the power top control module and is the brain of the whole affair. It communicates with the BCM and CLP/SSM as well as numerous sensors on the top cylinders and tonneau latch.
The modules that can inhibit top operation are: PTCM, BCM and CLP/SSM. To understand the operation of the system, see this thread:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-sensors.html

... and perhaps read thru the top section of the 2008 manual (the 05 manual top section is crap). I think we lost the link to it, so here, I just posted it again:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...p-section.html

For the wiring and pinout of the PTCM and associated sensors/switches, see the 'Power TOp' section of the wiring chapter of the 2005 service manual found here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

 

I should probably make something clear;

It is very good troubleshooting to take into account what was done with the car in order to guess at where the issue is. You did good in this respect - but you cannot take that assumption too far. Proving the validity of the latch switch's indications to the PTCM is easy and should be step 1, based on your suspicions.

TO do so, do this:

1) Tear the trim from the trunk around the PTCM.
2) Jam your positive meter lead into slot 17 of connector C1.
3) Ground the black/negative/common meter lead by clipping it to a ground bolt or by jamming it into the slot 11 of connector C1.
3A) You will need long enough meter leads to put the meter outside the car when you close the lid.
4) Close trunk lid, start engine.
5) Manually fold the top up away from the lid and use the top tool to manually latch and re-latch the tonneau lid using the tool to rotate the cam.
When doing this, the meter will jump from zero to about 5 volts (I cannot remember for sure, but I believe the voltage is 5 when the lid is up and zero when it's latched).

If this rolling from 0 to 5 volts occurs, the tonneau latch switch is fine. THis does not prove the hall effect sensors on the latch cylinder are OK.