ordered the switch from chrysler today. $35 will be here tomorrow, hopefully the cutouts will be here by thursday.

 

I know you will...but be sure to let us know if there is any difficulty in wiring the switch, and how you went about everything.

Also, a lot of times the 'dummy' switches are actual switches with a 'lock' on them. You may want to check this before you pick that $35 switch up. AND, the 'blank' cover on the dummy may be removable so you can add it to the new one..


Which one did you order? I assume you want a momentary on / off / momentary on? The cutouts dont require constant power to hold them open or closed, do they? I wouldn't think so...I'd assume they are motorized w/gears and they hold their last position until you hit the motor again.

Keep us posted!

SQ

 

I ordered the rear wing switch, I hope it is a momentary style or else I'll have to figure something else out.

 

I would assume it requires constant power as you can open them to a select amount (the longer you hold it, the farther it opens..)

And I would assume to close it the switch would have to reverse polarity..

 

Constant power to the switch...but the switch isn't always 'closed' as it is momentary.

I would have to look into it, but I would assume that you don't have to charge the cutouts to keep them open or closed. This would seem pointless. I assume the motor/gears only run when you want to move their position.

SQ

 

I believe that they are motor/gear driven - more or less like pop-up style headlights. When you turn the headlights on the motor turns the gears and they pop up and then when you turn them off the polarity isn't reversed, the gears are driven forward until they come to a reset position. I'm pretty sure these cut-outs are much the same way. On other forums I read where the motors sometimes went bad, but that could be a heat related issue as they were being used on turbo cars.

Either way I wish you luck and keep us informed :-)

 

I didn't really get a chance to do any comparitive testing at the track today due to traction issues and not being able to make a consistant pass. From my observation, they rob some low end torque and the best thing to do is launch with them closed then open them up as soon as you get off the line. I was side by side with a supra and when I opened them up and immediatly jumped a car ahead, then his turbo spooled and he was gone. The sound is rediculous inside the car, but people have told me it sounds good when I go by. I know there were several videos taken today, so I will try to link them when they get uploaded.

Install Side note: We had to remove the heat shields to gain enough ground clearance and since I didn't have any gaskets we ended up haveing to cut the pipe and reweld it. There was no way they could weld them in place, so the whole mid pipe had to come off. So have some gaskets or cut your pipes so you can drop them.

 

Got a couple pics of the install, the passenger side sits a little low due to clearance issues with the frame.

 

How well do the Cutouts seal when they are closed? I know they sometimes leak pretty bad and you can hear them.

 

2 questions.

excuse my ignorance but what do the cutouts actually do?

in regard to the switch, couldnt you add a second switch (only on when pushed) under the gas pedal so that it only comes on when the gas pedal is floored., then press the other switch when inmotion or when desired?

 

Car sounds completely stock, no leaks detected these are supposed to be the best out there and have a 4 year warranty.

 

any word on a sound clip

 

Got some more video at the track tonight, just waiting on my friend to upload. I reall wish I could have done some open closed testing, but the track was so crowded I only made 2 passes.

 

Update:
After reading some forum posts about cutouts I did some testing tonight.I found that just bumping the cutouts open a bit seemed to give a noticeable difference in power/acceleratrion over having them wide open/closed and little to no loss of torque on the bottom end. This is all according to the butt dyno , but I think I will run like this when it's time to race and def. have to try it at the track next time.

 

i've seen a mopar e-cutout up close and personal... actually uninstalled one. they are loud when open and provide little to no difference in sound when closed. I know that an e-cutout on a SRT-4 sounded like a dump truck when open and had been known to shoot a flame or two with a wide open throttle shift (though that would be a minor issue in the SRT-6 seeing as it is automatic). It definately turns heads, and let people know they need to get out of the fast lane on the highway. However, there are two issues that I have seen. One: you cannot leave it open when cruising, at least in the SRT-4, because if you did you would throw a code - no fun. Two: There was a small issue with the motor actually sticking and not allwoing it to open/close. This could most likely be resolved with a cleaning and greasing once or twice a year. Just thought I would give you the heads up about that though.

As for the "50% open" I haven't heard anything like that. I think that it would probably work better fully open because of the reduction in backpressure that it provides and thus more HP. But I can't say for sure.

My $.02 plus.