Thanks to the members on the FORUM I have been doing research and finally added the Eibach Pro springs to my SRT-6. I was concerned that the stance would be too high or low etc. Brian Brave had some interesting thoughts that I would suggest you read for reference. Now, I am able to pull a rear spring out in 10-15 minutes and replace it to adjust its height. This is on my lift with a floor jack.


The Eibach set-up is a bit low for the front and the rear was higher and not equivalent. I pulled the rear springs and cut them about 1/2 turn shorter, and then I recut the Passenger rear spring about 1/3 more. Seems that the right rear wanted to sit about 1/2" higher, so I had to do the cut again.


Now Iam happy and the distance from the top of the rear rim to the bottom of the fender lip is 3.5". Thats a good way to measure it and eliminates errors with the surface of the pavement. Now the rear has a fair amount of camber with the top of the tires further inward than the bottom. This is not a biggy deal but What the HECK is the camber?


To measure the angle you only need a level over two feet long and a ruler. Place the bottom edge of the level against the lower edge of the rim. Now move the level in or out until the bubble shows the it is vertical. Take a ruler and measure from the upper lip of the rim to the edge of the level and record the measurment.


My 19" rims are 20.5" from the top to the bottom of the lip and my wheels are tilted INWARD at the top by 1.0". Going back to trig you need to divide the two measurments to determine the Tangent of the angle. For my car and example I divided the inboard distance ( 1.0" ) by the full rim distance that you are measuring by which for me is 20.5".


The resulting number that I got is 0.0487 which is the length of the sine [ of the angle formed ] 1.0" over the cosine length of 20.5". Looking this number up on the internet using a free scientific calculator I got the angle of 2.788 degrees.

This method is easy and can give you a quick check to evaluate the set up you have. To be more accurate, drive the car to a flat spot, do not measure after letting the car down from a lift or jack. The tires will be caught in that case and will introduce significant errors.

For me this angle is a bit too much and I have to design an eccentric bolt or something to allow the rear control arm to move inboard to reduce and control the wheels camber angle. This is an attachment point and should not be too difficult, just some more geometry to get the spacing right.

The attached photo is my attempt to get a shot while holding the camera while balancing the level and ruler. Hope this gives you another TOOL to play with your toy. Yes, I cut the shock bumper bushings.


Enjoy, Waldig

 

any pics? My Eibachs should be here friday. I also just picked up my new wheels and tires and had to go with a 275/30/19 in the rear. I was thinking about ordering the thinnest rear spring pads first and see how it sits with the smaller tires.

 

also try here for all tech info

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=13875


CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel relative
to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the top of the
wheel inward provides negative camber (NEG.). Tilting
the top of the wheel outward provides positive camber
(POS.). Incorrect camber will cause wear on the inside
or outside edge of the tire. (1) Indicates the spring
location. (2) Is the eccentric repair bolt for adjusting
camber.
² +3 mm Range of adjustment ±25’ Camber


ADJUSTING
Note: Vehicles are delivered from the factory with pre-set caster, camber, and toe settings. When aligning a
vehicle with factory settings, Eccentric Repair Bolts must be installed in order to adjust caster or camber.
Toe is the only adjustment that can be made without installing the Eccentric Repair Bolts.
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Cover all the attached parts remaining in the vehicle. (area to be repaired)
WARNING: RISK OF INJURY WITH TRAPPED OR CRUSHED FINGERS WHEN WORKING ON SPRINGS OR
SPRING-LOADED COMPONENTS.
CAUTION: Use only approved tensioning devices; additionally shield off hazardous area if necessary.
CAUTION: Inspect special tools for damage and proper operation (visual inspection). Wear protective
gloves.
Note: Inspect for prior installation of the eccentric
repair bolt.
3. For camber, compress the front spring (1). (Refer
to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/SPRING -
REMOVAL).
4. Install the repair bolt (2). Screw on the nut from the
repair kit as far as it will go, but do not tighten it so
that the rubber mount on the wishbone can turn
when the suspension is compressed and
rebounded.
5. Release the front spring (1).
6. Lower the vehicle and settle the suspension by
pulling and pushing firmly several times.
Note: Inspect for prior installation of the eccentric
repair bolt.
7. For caster, compress the front spring (2). (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/SPRING - REMOVAL).
8. Install the repair bolt (1). Screw on the nut from the
repair kit as far as it will go, but do not tighten it so
that the rubber mount on the wishbone can turn
when the suspension is compressed and
rebounded.
9. Release the front spring (2).
10. Lower the vehicle and settle the suspension by
pulling and pushing firmly several times.

 

If you look at any Mercedes or BMW, they all have noticable camber in the rear, more than most cars. Why, I never cared enough to find out, I guess it's a German thing. I have just worn through my first set of rears on my car with the lowering springs, and they are wearing about as even across the tread as I've ever seen. So, with that being said, the camber is not a bad thing. I know having a car with too little camber ruins the handling, so I'm sure the Germans did their math that way for a reason.

 

It's that high camber angle that helps us rail around corners at breakneck speeds. As you lean the car over into a corner, the weight transfers over and makes the tire sit more to the outside edge of the tire. Crossfires have a larger contact patch when they are cornering.....more contact = more grip!

To see an extreme example of this just look at a NASCAR stock car setup!

 

Here's a link to my install, I had a four wheel anignment done afterwards and everything was right on the money when they were done. I have the same problem Waldig had, to low in the front & not low enough in the back. I took care of the back by putting on some 285's, I used some 1/4" rubber to put on top of the spring cup in front, but I think the top of the spring cup has dented it's way into the rubber. The top of the cup is a circle less than a 1/4" thick, it looks about like the top of a heavy duty coffee cup. They make different thicknesss of spring cups and I'm planning on getting a thicker set for the front.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ghlight=camber

 

yeah I'm going to try and order the thickest spring pad set for the front ans thinnest for the rear today. Hopefully it will sit level.

 

If I would have known the back was going to only drop about a 1/2" or less, I would have cut a little off the rear springs. And I still may one of these day's, the main reason I haven't is because I would have to remove the K-MAC adjustable lower control arm bushings. Then I would probably have to go get the rear realigned to feel like I done it right .

 

STEVE, Can you post a picture of the K-mac so that we can see what they did to allow you to correct the angle, thank you.

What did you have for an angle measurment when you were done for the rear tires? What are your rim to fender lip measurment distances now, front and rear. Mine are now 3.5 all round in front and in the rear.

The original Eibach springs have 9 turns and the factory have 8.5 in the front. I did not shorten them, the rears were cut, only. See the front stock and Eibach photo attached.

A hot lick that I found is to spray the rubber spring cups with white grease to allow them to shift and seat. The cups should be placed on the new springs with wire ties so that they will be aligned when you place them in the car. This saves you one more thing to fiddle with while trying to get everything put back correctly, hope it save yall time.

I like the idea of a rubber donut in the front however; the factory spring pads are graded in thickness, does anyone know what the thicknesses are or the height differences between them. Where is a good place to buy the in any case?? Dont wannna go the the dealership for that if I can find a better source of supply.

Waldig ps the car photo is Eibach set-up without correction of rear springs.

 

MB Spring Pad Part Numbers - (not sure of the Chrylser Part Number) I think I paid around $25 for all four from the local MB dealership.

Front
A 210 321 01 84 (5mm) **
A 210 321 02 84 (9mm)
A 210 321 03 84 (13mm)
A 210 321 04 84 (17mm)
A 210 321 05 84 (21mm)

Rear:
A 210 325 01 84 (5mm) **
A 210 325 02 84 (9mm)
A 210 325 03 84 (13mm)
A 210 325 04 84 (17mm)

The biggest drop for the fronts is 21-5 = 16mm (.63 inches)
And the rears is 17-5 = 12mm (.47 inches) assuming you replace the thickest pads with the thinnest.

 

Do the thickness readings of the pads relate to the amount they will lift the car? I ask for the springs are located about 1/2 of the a arm length and I was thinking that the lever arm moving 10mm would raise the distance from the wheel to the body by twice that distance 20mm. (?) Waldig

 

man looking at Waldig's pic my car will have about the same gap as he has now with the 5mm pad in the rear and the 275/30/19 Do these eibachs settle at all? I ordered the 17mm F and 5mm R from the local MB dealer for around $35. Should be here tomorrow morning, but my springs probally wont come till the evening because of stupid UPS. I think I am one of the last houses on their route, because they always come after 5pm. I'll probally put the rears on tomorrow or sat since they are fairly simple but might have to wait until next weekend to do the fronts. I'll be sure to update how things go.

 

I looked to see if you could tell anything about how the KMAC bushings were made while on the car and you really can't tell. I went upstairs in my garage last night to find the track bar bushings that came with them, but I couldn't find them. Most everything I have upstairs is in boxes and are labled with a sharpie as to what's in the box, but I must have missed that one. The hole in the center of the bushing is off to one side and is "D" shaped along with the bolt that goes through it. The metal part of the bushing has teeth that bites into the metal where the control arm mounts and so do the washers on the outside after you stick the bolt through. Since the bushing hole is offset to one side it allows the bushing to move in or out as you turn the bolt. Hope this made since, I'll try again to find the track bar bushings and take a pic when I get a chance or maybe find a pic for you on the net.

Here you go I found a good pic on the net for you : http://www.ttstuff.com/Merchant2/mer..._Code=KMAC-HLF