Thinking out loud……

My dyno’s were 293 RWHP stock and then 320 RWHP with the complete SL55 setup. Most of those dyno numbers listed seem to have an intake mod and maybe other things, except for ChiTown. So, based on what we know about the three intake mods netting about 25-30 RWHP. IMO, your intake setup will only net 10-12 RWHP because the stock boxes are still in place.

Stock: 290-297
SL55 Y and Hoses: 300-309

The 178 pulley adds about 20-25 RWHP
SL55 (Y and H) + 178 pulley: 320-334

Not sure about the tune but I’m going to say about 25-30 RWHP (Inmotion)
SL55 (Y and H) + 178 pulley + Tune: 345-364

I think you will dyno between….
350-360 RWHP.

Good Luck!

 

You are right in the ball park of what I was thinking. But that is what I was guessing, I can only hope to put down that good of #'s. The 285's on the rear may take a little away and with the brand of dyno it will be on, I believe it may give some lower #'s than one might expected. But I'm no dyno expert, I just know what I read and hear.

 

Well, looks like things are on schedule for the dyno tomorrow afternoon. I really don't that much about what kind of airflow/fuel ratio's #'s I should be looking for. BrianBrave said his A/F was 10.5 witch was way to rich after installing his 185 pulley and he had his ECU retuned to a 12.5 ratio. Could someone help educate me a little so I don't look like a complete idiot when they start telling me how my A/F are and advising me of what I need to do to correct them if they are way off of what they think they souuld be.

Thanks in advance for anybodies input, Steve

 

If at all possible, do data-logging.

The ECU will retad timing in 3 steps and dump fuel in 4, depending on IATs and coolant temp.

For example, my car dynoed at 388 on the first pull, 377 on the second - simply because of the IATs.

Airflow on a dyno is compromised versus on-the-road airflow, and without additional cooling, you will quickly reach the point of timing retardation and fuel enrichment.

Feel free to give me a call from the dyno, if you have any Q's. I'll PM you my cel #.

 

I'm curious to see the difference between what Steve's car dyno's at and what his Gtech RR reports.

 

Without knowing your car's exact weight (with driver), I don't think i'd trust the GTech for HP numbers.

I have the same RR model, at the track last week it was consistently 2 tenths faster than the actual timing slips. I downloaded everything to the computer, and found that you can really manipulate the HP estimate just by changing the vehicle weight by 50 pounds.

They are great for getting a rough idea if you've made an improvement in the car or not, but I'm pretty skeptical about the HP "estimation".

That being said.......I'm trying to find a place where I can roll across a set of scales to find my exact weight. I'm curious as to how close I can get the GTech.

 

There will be a big difference between the real dyno #'s at the rear wheels and what a G-tech will say. The G-tech is tough to get a "dyno run", from what I've read in the manual you really need a manual tranny to get fairly accurate #'s. It will give you HP for a complete 1/4 mile run, witch are really low #'s. I'm at home this morning so I just checked a few 1/4 runs and the HP was 259 HP, but that # was not a dyno run like the manual for the G-tech say's to do. There are step by step instructions on how to use the dyno mode on the G-tech, but I've never done it. The 259 I think is an avarage all the way through the 1/4 - including TC kicking in and drop's when shifting and the big one - wind resistance.
I firgured there would be more interest in seeing what kind of #'s an SRT 6 with a RENNtech kit would be compared to the newer tuner's that are avaliable now.