I'm getting my car dyno'ed next week and I have it scheduled to be run on a four wheel dyno. I would rather do it on their two wheel dyno because I've read that the four wheel will give you lower #'s because of the two extra rollers. It's been said that by just pulling #17 & #18 fuses the car will not go over 4,800 RPM. But I've done burn outs with just the TC off, hit redline & the car shifted to 2nd gear and I was not moving at all (front wheels not turning). Has anyone dyno'ed their car with just the fuses pulled and got up to 6,000 RPM? I'm just looking for some input here before I go get it done. I'm going to look in the tech manual to see if there is an easy way to disconnect the YAW sensor because I've read that that's why the car can not reach 6,000 RPM.

 

i think i was hitting 5800 with fuses 17, 18 pulled.

someone mentioned the yaw sensor being just under the center console towards the rear. if thats the case it should be simple.

 

There was a recent post of someone not being able to get over 4,800. I know the YAW sensor is under the console, but I'd rather be able to unplug something under the hood.
BTW, what's the "340whp(corrected)" mean in your signature? I'm just nosy .

 

Steve,

On a 4 wheel dyno - the front wheels will only spin if the car is front wheel drive or all wheel drive.

You need to find out if the dyno shop has a Star Diagnostic tool that can plug into the ODBII port under the dash and put the car into the dyno mode so it can run to the ECU's rev-limit setting. Then there is no need to pull fuses.

If not - - you will need to pull 17 and 18 and only be able to dyno to 4,800 RPM. Which will provide very low readings.

SpeedInnovations has setup my ECU so that I can now dyno to the rev limiter (6,250RPM) on any dyno machine without having to plug into the diagnostic port..

Perhaps Renntech setup yours the same....

 

I'm wondering if RENNtech did set mine up that way. In my first post in this thread I had said that while doing a burn-out in 1st gear it shifted to 2nd and I was not moving. But that's been almost a year ago, I may have let it creep a long a little (Getting Old & My Memory ). Maybe the best thing to do is take the car out when I get home from work, powerbrake it doing a burn-out and make sure my front wheels are not turning.

 

Shifting just before 6,000 so 5,800 sounds right to me with 17 and 18 pulled.

 

If I put the tranny in 1st gear - and stomp on it - it will shift at around 6,200 RPM for each gear (no pulled fuses).

Never tried it before I had the ECU tuned....

 

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but this did seem pertinent to the discussion...

The Star Diagnostics device Brian mentioned, what exactly is the name of that? I'm thinking that it would be a good thing to have, especially if it can be used not only for dyno-ing, but also for ECU tuning.

I looked online and found the Benz Star2000 unit for about $800. Of course it comes with OBDII cables and other cables, and software.

http://www.haetech.com/Html/ProductV...127&SortID=174

Would others here be willing to go in on one and share it? Just thinking out loud here... could be a real bonus at get-togethers...

 

Is that while sitting still with one hell of a lot of tire smoke ? Since I done my RENNtech kit at 800 miles, I really don't know how a non-modded ECU acts.

 

Yes - From a dead stop - lots of wheel spin - but even when rolling and down shifting - it will increase the RPM threshold that the tranny shifts at - great for canyon runs when hard on the gas - hard on the brakes - etc.. it keeps the engine revs up and increases torque to a intoxicating level.

That and the razor sharp cornering...Love the lowered stance with less body roll - love those PS2's - My next set of rubber will be the 285/35R19 PS2's for the rear.

I might drag race once to see where I'm at - but I bought this baby for the road courses

 

You might have misunderstood what I was asking, what I really was getting at - was your front tire's at a stand still when your car shifted from 1st to 2nd at redline? I'm pretty sure mine was, but I just can't remember for sure. And be prepared to shell out big $$ for the 285/35R19 PS2's, mine cost me $870 mounted & balanced and the front 245/35R18 PS2's on my car I believe hit me for $660 mounted & balanced. I can find out after work if my car will rev to 6,000 RPM in 1st while sitting still, I'll just take it down the road, power brake it in 1st and see how high she climbs. I had called the shop this morning to see what it would cost me to put it on the two wheel first just to try it and they said $50. The 4 wheel dyno is $90 for 3 pulls w/air & fuel charts and the two wheel is $65 for the same, that's why I started this thread. I didn't want to shell out $50 to find out that I had to spend $90 .

 

When I did a 2 wheel dyno the engine ran up to 5500 and went into self protect mode as shown in my photo attached to my signature.. Front wheels were not turning or else I would have gone higher, 6000. This limited my power output readings, but that is the way the design shakes out in stock trim.

Enjoy, Woody

 

they are about 20 grand

if we set it up ahead of time we can probably do a dyno day up here and i can bring the one diagnostic laptop we use

 

I'll give them a call and ask them if they have a Star Diagnostic tool.

Where up here are you talking about?

 

"I'll give them a call and ask them if they have a Star Diagnostic tool."
only mercedes dealerships or mercedes repair shops will have this most likely, i do not think dodge dealerships would have anything to do this with


"Where up here are you talking about?"
just north fo detroit, maybe we can set it up a day before/after the woodward dream cruise

 

That would be great! I was planning to come in a day early for the Woodward cruise to visit friends in the area.

20 gran for the diagnostics tool!?!? Ouch.

 

I was the one that dynoed recently on a Dynojet 2wd dyno and with 17&18 pulled could only revv to 4800 on the dyno. That was on stock ECU.............I will soon be shipping it out to get tuned for the new mods and also see about fixing the stupid limiter(if possible).

 

I called the place that's going to do the dyno on my car this morning and they don't have a Star Diagnostic tool. But they did say on their four wheel dyno that the front & rear rollers are connected together with a Kevlar belt. I'd rather do the two wheel because it's $25 cheaper and I would probably lay down better #'s not spinning the front rollers with my rear tire's. I spoke with a tech @ RENNtech this morning to ask if my ECU tune had any effect on dynoing the car, I had explained to him that other people trying to dyno their cars could not get the RPM's up to 6,000 and the range people were getting was from 4,800 to 5,500 RPM. I was told the ECU tune has nothing to do with not getting the RPM's up to 6,000, that it's all controlled by the stability control, (ABS - YAW sensor - BAS/ESP). But I did get some advice on how to dyno the car that may work. The tech said not to pull any fuses or turn off the TC, but to run the car up to around 2,000 RPM & hold it there. After about one minute the speedometer should drop to 0 and you would get an ABS failure light on the dash, then shut the car off and start it back up and the failure light should still be there. But the speedometer should work and you should be able to pull a full RPM run. He said he was not 100% sure it would work, but that was something he had done to some MB's in the past. He also said once your front wheels start rolling again the light would go off, but the car will store the failure code.
I wonder why there is a difference in one car to the next on how high the RPM's will let you go, one car only went to 4,800 and another went to 5,500.

 

Just talked to the place that's going to do the dyno run on my car again. When I talked to them this morning they said they didn't have the Star Diagnostic tool, but they had just bought one for the Land Rover that was big $$. But anyway I don't know if it's the one, but the main guy said that they do have one that will put MB's in dyno mode . So I'm good to go on the two wheel dyno.

 

I done some searching on the fourm to see who had dyno #'s posted. I was suprized to find so few, I was just wondering what to expect next week when I get my car dyno'ed.
Here's a list of what I found on the search for RWHP on a dyno:
2403SRT = 340
Moparrbust = 311 @ 4,800 RPM
srt6_crossfire = 355
Chi-townSRT/6 = 296
NeedsWings = 330 (5 months ago)
waldig = 322 @ 5,500?
I don't know the type of machines each were on, but I here that the Mustang Dyno Monitor will give you the most accurate #'s and that's what my car is going to be done on. Anybody want to take an experienced guess on what my #'s will be with the mod's that I have?
RENNtech kit - claimed 45 hp with 91 octane - had mine tuned for 93.
SL55"Y" & hose's. Resonator delete. K&N filters.