Ok, so I'm trying to decide which gauges are most beneficial and need some help. Since our cars are v6's and have two headers would it be a good idea to run two a/f or is that an overkill? I am interested in knowing if running one a/f is close enough estimate on our cars overall a/f ratio without having to run a 2nd? Will tuning with two a/f gauges really that make that much more of a difference?

Also I would like to know which gauges in general are most beneficial besides a/f. I just got my pillar pod (BIG THANKS TO JONNY!) and I'm trying to decide on gauges.

 

I'm in the same boat brotha! I am planning on running the usual Boost and A/F, but the last one im up in the air about.....I would run an IAT because I plan on adding the meth kit, but there doesn't seem like much options for this gauge as far as companies producing it.....

 

Distant, I am thinking the same thing. I am looking at the Nordskog like BrianBrave is using for the IAT. I am also considering an oil gauge instead of the IAT as I think I want to play on the road course at Portland International raceway also. Decisions, decisions.

MikeR

 

OK, I'm a total noob when it comes to these gages. Where would you mount the sensors for A/F gage? Intake plenums - no that would just be air - no fuel. Exhaust manifold? Hmm...

What are good A/F numbers? What should the gage read?

Slightly off topic, but where would you mount a boost gage sensor? At the Intake plenum?

 

we have our single afr sensor in the pass side downpipes just after where the first cat was, the pass bank gets fuel last so we chose that side to use.

boost sensor can go into either air distribution pipe or the intake manifolds themselves.

 

lol all you guys have been asking since you are all in the same thread I figured I would just post these. These will not work with wide band sensors, so for the hard core tunners looking to read information off of the sensors, I believe these will not work. They should be available for sale in 2 weeks and out the door in 3 OR LESS. Anyway here is the old picture of the gauges, I think it is going to change a little bit we keep going back and forth with the lettering obviously the numbers will not be set up like this THESE ARE THE ROUGH pictures, your input would be great.....

 

I like how factory those gauges look. Anybody know anything about this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innov...spagenameZWD1V

 

there is no need to run two AFR gauges as long as your fuel injectors are matched. theoretically, cylinder 1 should have the same injector cc's as all the others. so how ever you tune the map for one cylinder then all cylinders should operate that way.


it might be a good idea if you don't get the injectors cleaned or matched.

 

Johnny, those pics are really rough. I cant even see them! Did you forget to attach?

MikeR

 

you deleted your cats? oohh any hp gains there?

 

The short answer is that it depends on the state of your engine.

If you are planning on modifying the intake/exhaust ports, exhaust headers, with individual dual exhausts, AND you are tuning the ECU, then one wideband per cylinder bank would help.

If you are just slapping bolt-ons on then my personal opinion is that running dual widebands is redundant!

Engines that run trumpet-style intakes and individual throttle bodies are often tuned with individual EGT and wideband AFRs on each cylinder!

 

ITBs (Independent Throttle Bodies) that's where the power is at!! All the cool kids are doing this with their big blocks. Any SRT guys out there planning on heavy modification for this???

As far as the dual AFR gauges, if anything, it'd be for the most precise tuning, very redundant. But would aid in diagnosis if there's a problem, can isolate one side of the block if there is an issue.

 

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/mt.htm

At one time I even found a O2 Sensor that had two pigtails.

One that provided high-band signals for a gauge and/or data recorder; and a pigtail for the low-band signals to the ECU.

Remember - the ECU reads voltages from the lowband sensor and adjusts the fuel maps accordingly.

If you install a high-band sensor - and it's calibration differs from the factory low-band sensor - and you attempt to tweak your ECU using readings from your new gauge.......you will need to know the signal offset between to the two sensors.....I think that's the idea of using the same O2 sensor for low and high band signals..

Just a thought..

 

can no one see the gauges lol or am i on the outside of an inside joke lol ????

 

I see them - They look good - I would like to see the boost gauge with a vacuum reading since our SC are not always engauged

 

are you making a sticker overlay insert for some off the shelf gauge?

 

NO!!! these these will be made out of HIP High Impact Polystyrene and I believe it is digitally printed on there. It is almost impossible to make 3-4 decal overlays, line them up, and still have the back light shine through. In other words it will be the full gauge not a sticker over the existing gauge.... I hope that is what you were asking. As for the gauge itself it would be nice if we could go with something like auto meter, but you need to start with a back lit gauge not a el indiglow set up . So we are looking at possible quality back lit gauges AEM for one.... Me personally like the look of the AEM digital tru boost, and there Air Fuel, but just for those two you are looking at $500 or more. It would be nice to know what people are interested in, some are going to want to only pay $400 for a set of three, others don't mind paying close to 1k for a set of three..

 

The gauges in the cf are the same as a 94-95 C280 I believe.