Edited as too long.

 

Just out of curiosity, how do you know it is a problem with the LET pulleys and not a difference in the factory crank pulleys. The LET idler pulley used a lipped edge, the factory set up doesn't. I think you would be able to get away with a difference in factory crank pulley depths with only the the crank pulley and alternator pulley being lipped. When you went with the LET set up you now have the idler pulley with a lip, which won't be as for giving as the factory idler set up that had no lip. Reason I mention this is I replaced the steering shaft on my diesel because there was a TSB on the factory one. Well the new updated version once installed had the steering wheel sitting off center by 15-20*. obviously the second run of the new steering shafts were not to the same specs as the first run.

 

[QUOTE=onehundred80]Correction - I never had a screw break. It was someone else (Moparrbust maybe?).

Bulldogger - IIRC, my LET idler did not have a lipped edge... it was just a smooth, machined steel 60mm cylinder w/ a 6303 bearing inside.

 

[quote=c32AMG-DTM][quote=onehundred80]
Correction - I never had a screw break. It was someone else (Moparrbust maybe?).

Noted and corrected.

 

C32,
my water pump pulley was smooth like the factory, but my LET idler was lipped with the LET logo on it, interesting...

 

Edited too long.

 

Agreed but a larger CP should be pushing the belt off the front of the idler not the rear.

 

It is. The damage to the belt is occuring on the CP. Smooth pulleys are forgiving, ribbed pulleys are not.

 

I would have thought the front edge would be getting damaged when it was hitting the alternator pulley

 

Edited too long.

 

Looks like no updates till tomorrow.
Dang machine shop. I miss driving my baby.

 

That's what the shop guy told me when I brought them the pullies...............then I said "thanks but no thanks" and started to walk away. The guy then told me to hold on and then asked one of the techs who then said I can do it rite now..........and he did.

 

At least you can walk away and take it somewhere else.
We have two machine shops here. One I never use.

 

I wonder if most people think that I am wrong in my assumptions and theories, if I am let me know your reasons and I will forget the whole issue.

OK, I have edited all posts on this subject.

 

Don't take this the wrong way but most of your responses are soooo long I just skimmed or skipped them. I will go back and re read looking for questions.




OK.................


When I tried to remove one of the pulley allen bolts I had the pulley in my hand and "removed" it with a 3/8'' hand ratched without excessive force and I though I "broke" the bolt loose like usual...............I didn't know it actually "broke" until the front half came out of the pulley and I noticed it was sheared in half. I also didn't know that the pulley supposedly is super complex and has 28 parts until reading this thread.

As far as the crank pulleys sticking out too far and causing wear on the front edge that doesn't/didn't happen because the other pulleys are pulling the belt back where it's supposed to be and this causes the belt to eventually jump back into alignment. When it's back into "alignment" the belt is now hanging one rib off of the back of the crank pulley(happened to me once and I just put it back on the crank again) until it eventually cuts the rear rib off and should continue doing so until it destroys the belt completely.


I installed my newly cut down LET 185 pulley and everything seems to be in order and aligned now except the WP pulley where the belt is sticking off the back edge ever so slightly.................but that's due to the fact that I have the wrong pulley(LET sent me one for a v8 car) on my 6 right now.

 

Short. I said wear is on the back face of belt. No answers to my questions. Rash statements by others. Thought I would prevent wrong reaction. No SRT so my thoughts are worth nothing ,OK. Tip, buy ASP pulley.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moparrbust

...but that's due to the fact that I have the wrong pulley(LET sent me one for a v8 car) on my 6 right now.

Damn.
With all due respect to LET – whose exhaust manifolds and heat exchanger I’ve installed – that’s merely an error stemming from sheer inattentiveness.

 

Onehundred80...Yes I'm reading your thought's. I'll be purchasing a 185 pully from someone in about a month. So why the tip for choosing ASP pulley's? I need guidence for making the correct brand choice. Thanks.. Squirrel Crusher

 

The reason is simplicity. The simplest part is a one piece pulley. The simplest part with a damper is a three piece pulley, consisting of a hub, connected by a damping medium to the ribbed portion of the pulley just like the OEM part. The more parts you add, you increase the complexity and troubles. You want a simple pulley, not a Swiss watch.

 

Hello there, friend. I, for one, enjoy reading your posts... I find the info to be well-thought-out, and usually intriguing stuff that hasn't/wasn't raised before.

For example, I thought you made an excellent point about the shearing forces constantly being applied to the six alloy hex screws (which, although they can handle them so far, they're not really designed/engineered to handle them optimally). So, your observation got me thinking... if the center section and outer pulley ring were splined on their mating surfaces, the screws wouldn't be handling those forces. Alternatively, stronger fasteners might be procured from a vendor like ARP, for longevity and peace of mind.

Might be an R&D improvement that LET incorporates into their V2, V3, V4, etc. crank pulley - or maybe not, but at least the info's out there - you know?

FWIW, people can choose what they want to read - if they think a post isn't applicable or too lengthy, they can skim or skip it. IMHO, if a post has substance to it (and usually a few good gems of info), I enjoy the opportunity to expand my knowledge base with said info.

That's why I read Woody's novellas...

My $0.02