181 pulley responsible for belt rib cutting problem
Where to begin.... I have had the 181 on my SRT for six months. Other then the water pump pulley having to be replaced after it disintegrated due to being to thin or not strong enough, I have not had any problems . It was put on by a MB mechanic. He had warned me about the WP pulley when he first put it on.
Today, I finally got around to having the 2nd pulley put on my daughter's SRT. These pullies were purchased at the same time and were from the first group from LET.
As noted in the photo I posted earlier, this 2nd pulley was compared to my OEM pulley and shows the same offset senario as Tighes. I spoke to the MB mechanic and he did not believe that this difference would cause a problem as I had not experienced any problem with my SRT. The super charger dilema I had was heat oriented and not directly related to the 181 pulley. Unless you run the car on a race track w/o enough cool down time. Not the pulley's fault.
Anyways, I went over to the mechanics before they had started putting on the 181. It was a tight tight fit. He got the CP lined up tapped it with a hammer and then put in the bolt and tighten it on. I had a new longer gator belt that was put on also. That made the mechanics job much easier. He did comment that the tension pulley had a bit of extra play that he thought a potential problem.
Driving home I experienced that extra low end torque that is just awesome. Ashey just called (she has my SRT at school (Nova SE College) to tell me how much faster my SRT is then her's. I informed her that I thought her's was now quicker than mine. We will see Saturday when the SRT's are put on the Dyno and retuned by Jerry at LET.
The mechanic took another customer for a 10 minute drive and I think the guy wet his pants. This guy has a 71 Chevelle with a 454 bored ect ect w/ nos and thought/thinks his Chevy is hot to trot. He was very impressed.
Sorry for the rambling.
Today, I finally got around to having the 2nd pulley put on my daughter's SRT. These pullies were purchased at the same time and were from the first group from LET.
As noted in the photo I posted earlier, this 2nd pulley was compared to my OEM pulley and shows the same offset senario as Tighes. I spoke to the MB mechanic and he did not believe that this difference would cause a problem as I had not experienced any problem with my SRT. The super charger dilema I had was heat oriented and not directly related to the 181 pulley. Unless you run the car on a race track w/o enough cool down time. Not the pulley's fault.
Anyways, I went over to the mechanics before they had started putting on the 181. It was a tight tight fit. He got the CP lined up tapped it with a hammer and then put in the bolt and tighten it on. I had a new longer gator belt that was put on also. That made the mechanics job much easier. He did comment that the tension pulley had a bit of extra play that he thought a potential problem.
Driving home I experienced that extra low end torque that is just awesome. Ashey just called (she has my SRT at school (Nova SE College) to tell me how much faster my SRT is then her's. I informed her that I thought her's was now quicker than mine. We will see Saturday when the SRT's are put on the Dyno and retuned by Jerry at LET.
The mechanic took another customer for a 10 minute drive and I think the guy wet his pants. This guy has a 71 Chevelle with a 454 bored ect ect w/ nos and thought/thinks his Chevy is hot to trot. He was very impressed.
Sorry for the rambling.
Originally Posted by tighed1
I'll check the belt tonight when I get home. Should be interesting to see the wear.
Doh! Threw away the remains of the rib that was cut away. The side of the belt where the rib was cut away looks like someone cut the rib off with a dull knife.
I finally took my 185 pulley of tonight and compared it to the stock one. It is indeed slightly taller/longer than the OEM. Now I need to find a machine shop to cut it down quick so I can drive to Cali. Friday to race at Famoso Saturday!!! I also tried loosening/taking out one of the allen bolts to put lock tite on them and the damn thing broke in half when trying to remove it with HAND TOOLS. I just put lock tite on the one half, put it back in and said the hell with touching the other bolts for now.
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I did not post that and was mostly communicating with Eric and Jerry trying to understand it before I cut it my self. I was not busting on them, just wanted to understand why the belt would not fit as I figgured that I had to be doing something wrong
Can you tell me the diameter of the idler for the 181mm pulley. For the 178 it is 60 mm, THANKS
Woody
Can you tell me the diameter of the idler for the 181mm pulley. For the 178 it is 60 mm, THANKS
Woody
I'll tell ya the diameter if I ever get it back from the machine shop. One of the draw backs of living in a small community. No one's in a hurry.
I took my pulley in today and had it cut down so it's even with the OEM now. It cost me $47.50 and they were done within an hour. I also picked up a new serpentine belt from M-B for $55 and another new crank bolt $1.50. If you add in the $50 bearing I bought to replace the failed on on the LET idler pulley these aftermarket pullies have cost me $154.00 in maintenance in less than one year and 3,500 miles of driving(with pullies in place).
Originally Posted by onehundred80
My estimate is that this is out by about .125" -.150"
Measure the error as my drawing shows in post #57, I only suggest this as it has been mentioned before that they can be repaired by making them the same overall length as the stock pulley, this is wrong.
The breakage of the Allen screws indicates to me that these are low quality screws, these are often used as they are cheaper to buy than brand name screws such as Allen and Unbrako, they are just cheap s**t. Made in Asia mostly the material is suspect and the screws do not conform to US standards. Sometimes the threads are cut rather than rolled, this gives even weaker parts.
This is the first pictures that I have seen that indicate the two piece construction, are the two pieces held by any keys or dowels to each other, or are the screws the only method to stop them rotating slightly against one another?
With the two piece construction the ribbed section is the same for all setups and the spindle part is matched to different engines, saves money and simplifies stocking.
Hopefully the correct parts are given to an worker who assembles the parts , with no inspection later this can lead to problems. We are assuming that all parts are correct in the first place.
Measure the error as my drawing shows in post #57, I only suggest this as it has been mentioned before that they can be repaired by making them the same overall length as the stock pulley, this is wrong.
The breakage of the Allen screws indicates to me that these are low quality screws, these are often used as they are cheaper to buy than brand name screws such as Allen and Unbrako, they are just cheap s**t. Made in Asia mostly the material is suspect and the screws do not conform to US standards. Sometimes the threads are cut rather than rolled, this gives even weaker parts.
This is the first pictures that I have seen that indicate the two piece construction, are the two pieces held by any keys or dowels to each other, or are the screws the only method to stop them rotating slightly against one another?
With the two piece construction the ribbed section is the same for all setups and the spindle part is matched to different engines, saves money and simplifies stocking.
Hopefully the correct parts are given to an worker who assembles the parts , with no inspection later this can lead to problems. We are assuming that all parts are correct in the first place.
onehundred80 - regarding the two piece design, LET posted the following on MBWorld.org explaining the design:
"I would like to clarify a few things with the new design of the pulley. This new pulley has a mechanical dampener. It uses a friction plate / clutch material to dampen. It contains about 28 internal pieces, including 8 springs.
The new design is a true work of art.
...
Personally, I prefer this new design. The mechanical dampener works throughout the entire RPM band."
So, according to LET there're 28 individual components contained within that aluminum outer pulley, providing the critical dampening functionality of our engine's crank pulley (the OE pulley is also dampened, by an elastomer ring IIRC)... the center ring of the LET pulley (that mounts to the crank snout) is a solid piece of metal I believe.
Waldig (aka Woody) - the LET idler is essentially a replica of the ASP idler; they're both 60mm. AFAIK, they use(d?) the same idler for both the 181 and 185 pulley kits.
The ASP does have the rubbery stuff, and took 4 versions I believe to get it perfect. Way before we had our srt's, thanks go to the MB guys for that.
Originally Posted by onehundred80
One question that pops into my little brain is, what happens if you take one apart, do the springs fly around the room? or can you open them up? is it dangerous to open them up? as I presume the springs are preloaded somehow.
240M3SRT appears to be correct, from what can be inferred from LET's warranty info off of their website found at: http://www.letmotorsports.com/warranty.asp
Here's an excerpt:
LET Motorsports warrants to the consumer that all LET products will be free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of twelve (12) months from date of the original purchase. Products that fail within this 12 month warranty period will be repaired or replaced at LET’s option, when determined by LET that the product failed due to defects in material or workmanship. This warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of the LET part. In no event shall this warranty exceed the original purchase price of the LET part nor shall LET be responsible for special, incidental or consequential damages or cost incurred due to the failure of this product. Warranty claims to LET must be transportation prepaid and accompanied with dated proof of purchase. This warranty applies only to the original purchaser of product and is non-transferable. All implied warranties shall be limited in duration to the said 12 month warranty period. Improper use or installation, use for racing, accident, abuse, unauthorized repairs or alterations voids this warranty.
(emphasis mine, for the bolded and underlined section).
I found interesting that "use for racing" specifically voids the warranty, since many (most?) LET tuned and modded cars frequent the track. Heck, LET even hosts track day events... so, maybe they have the right to void it, but in practice might choose not to?
Here's an excerpt:
LET Motorsports warrants to the consumer that all LET products will be free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of twelve (12) months from date of the original purchase. Products that fail within this 12 month warranty period will be repaired or replaced at LET’s option, when determined by LET that the product failed due to defects in material or workmanship. This warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of the LET part. In no event shall this warranty exceed the original purchase price of the LET part nor shall LET be responsible for special, incidental or consequential damages or cost incurred due to the failure of this product. Warranty claims to LET must be transportation prepaid and accompanied with dated proof of purchase. This warranty applies only to the original purchaser of product and is non-transferable. All implied warranties shall be limited in duration to the said 12 month warranty period. Improper use or installation, use for racing, accident, abuse, unauthorized repairs or alterations voids this warranty.
(emphasis mine, for the bolded and underlined section).
I found interesting that "use for racing" specifically voids the warranty, since many (most?) LET tuned and modded cars frequent the track. Heck, LET even hosts track day events... so, maybe they have the right to void it, but in practice might choose not to?
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
The ASP does have the rubbery stuff, and took 4 versions I believe to get it perfect. Way before we had our srt's, thanks go to the MB guys for that.
Originally Posted by Moparrbust
I took my pulley in today and had it cut down so it's even with the OEM now. It cost me $47.50 and they were done within an hour.



